Attak top end rpm problem

saskattakman

Expert
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
275
Reaction score
57
Points
838
Location
sask canada
just got my sled back from the dealer...thier telling my the reason im using some oil is because of my heelclicker kit reving so high...say to install my original clutching....ok don't believe them but fine....install original wieghts and springs and set secondary back to 3-3....take sled out for a rip only pulls 9800 rpms so i keep playing with the seconday till i get 10,500 out of it....secondary is set at 6-3....something seems wrong here....so i take out my original clutching and put the clickers back in.....they were running 11,200 hitting the limiter before i took it in.....try them out and only 10,500 now....chances of fouled plugs??? i am running the cr10ek's...what else to check
 
saskattakman said:
just got my sled back from the dealer...thier telling my the reason im using some oil is because of my heelclicker kit reving so high...say to install my original clutching....ok don't believe them but fine....install original wieghts and springs and set secondary back to 3-3....take sled out for a rip only pulls 9800 rpms so i keep playing with the seconday till i get 10,500 out of it....secondary is set at 6-3....something seems wrong here....so i take out my original clutching and put the clickers back in.....they were running 11,200 hitting the limiter before i took it in.....try them out and only 10,500 now....chances of fouled plugs??? i am running the cr10ek's...what else to check
You should not try to raise rpm by winding the secondary up,you need to get your proper operating rpms in the primary first,than fine tune with secondary,i dont understand it,i have a bone stock apex gt that comes out at 10500 and runs to 11000 on real hard surface,but even when it is in lose snow it still runs 10500 and my secondary is at 70 degrees w/stock white spring,now that is what they must of changed for or is from pink to white,now that is what my attak came with,at any rate how are your buttons on your secondary,and is your stock primary getting sacked out,maybe its time to replace it,seems like either snow conditions or you did not run far enough to get the 9800 to climb to 10,500.
 
Pending on milage I'd check or change the bushings in the secondary, if their badly worn they can BIND and not allowing to shift properly, I've bean their 10.000kms and they were toast!
 
apltx08 said:
Pending on milage I'd check or change the bushings in the secondary, if their badly worn they can BIND and not allowing to shift properly, I've bean their 10.000kms and they were toast!

have approx 5000 km on them ill still check them....
 
got to working on the sled....changed out the plugs for new ones....old ones had approx 4000kms on them so prob time anyways....did a comp test while i had them out 170 right across...took the sled for a rip and heres what i found initial launch revs to about 10,900 then once it stops spining it drops to around 10,700..mid it comes to 10,800 right now and stays there maybe goes up about 100 rpms...top end pulls from 10,800 to around 10,900...once i hit it it just stays there doesnt move much right from 20 kms to 170kms just stays the same....on the top it stays at 10,800 and climbs a hundred rpm to 110 mph then it starts slowly dropping...heres what im running for cluching....4.2 shoulder, 3.2 mid and 5.2 tip and sec at 3-3....had 3.7 shoulder in before but was hitting the limiter lots...gonna try a few different clutching setups to see what happens...
 
apltx08 said:
Pending on milage I'd check or change the bushings in the secondary, if their badly worn they can BIND and not allowing to shift properly, I've bean their 10.000kms and they were toast!

How do you know when theyre toast, just up and down play?

Also, Just a note, I cant get top end because my sliders melt, even in perfect conditions. The speed will go up, then down. For races, I use dish soap!

If m bushings are shot, ill try that and report back, maybe that will help you!
 
same here i can remove my helix and the back shieve wobbles side to side pretty good....the buttons look slightly worn....may try the buttons once i hear from a few others on here...they measure to spec but with 5000kms on them they may need replacement...
 
The 1st signs of worn bushing is when you come in to a corner at higher speeds and jam the track while braking then hit the flipper and bogs cuz secondary can't backshift/binds and bogs or when riding in deep snow and tends to bog or like in your case lost of top end cuz of it not shifting fully out...I usually change mine every 10.000kms bushings and buttons.
 


Back
Top