Bearing on secondary for Apex GT

[midnightrider]

Is there a bearing behind the secondary? I purchased part # 19 thinking it included the bearing and according to other threads, there is a bearing but it is nowhere to be found in the parts finder.

 

[guardrail]

I found this under secondary sheave #16

http://shop.portyamaha.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

16 BEARING
93306-30579-00

 

[midnightrider]

I have a 2007 Apex GT. According to my Secondary Sheave parts detail, there is no bearing can anyone confirm? It wouldn't make sense if this year didn't have a bearing within a housing. Doesn't there have to be a bearing being the secondary?

 

[Winderallday!]

The bearing is on the secondary shaft only, bearing is mounted in a housing on the frame, the secondary clutch itself is driven on the shaft with splines, does not rotate on the shaft. The moving sheave of the secondary has a bronze bushing inside the helix for lateral movement only.
The bearing in the housing usually lasts quite some time if you remove the seal and clean/re-pack with grease each year.

 

[musselman]

That bearing is located under the "frame" category, strange place to put the bearing, should be with the secondary.

 

[musselman]

They call it tunnel assembly actually

 

[Teamblue4]

BEARING
93306-20650-00 #18 under frame.

 

[midnightrider]

BEARING
93306-20650-00 #18 under frame.

Thanks. I tore it off and found it. Figured that was for the primary. Anyone think I should replace it? Sled just hit 7000 miles and it has no play. I really don't want to tear the chaincase off and pound out the shaft to replace it.

 

[Riceburner]

Take the seal/ rubber ring off and look at the balls or take a pic & repost.
If balls are dry and Rusty replace bearing.
If balls are shiny and look good, repack with grease and put seal / rubber ring cover back on.
Do same for Jack shaft bearing.
Doesn't look good in pic but inside is what matters.

 

[midnightrider]

Take the seal/ rubber ring off and look at the balls or take a pic & repost.
If balls are dry and Rusty replace bearing.
If balls are shiny and look good, repack with grease and put seal / rubber ring cover back on.
Do same for Jack shaft bearing.
Doesn't look good in pic but inside is what matters.

I will do that tomorrow. I replaced the jackshaft bearing last year and never road it.

 

[Winderallday!]

Thanks. I tore it off and found it. Figured that was for the primary. Anyone think I should replace it? Sled just hit 7000 miles and it has no play. I really don't want to tear the chaincase off and pound out the shaft to replace it.

View attachment 134673

Unless I'm missing something, this pic is of the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary, you said above you replaced it last year and never rode it? Did you actually mean you replaced the drive axle bearing below the secondary by the speedo pick up?
If this bearing in the pic has never been cleaned/re-packed, I would be suspect, but pull the snap ring and seal out and see what the condition is and go from there. If this maintenance is done seasonally, the bearing lasts a long time.

 

[midnightrider]

Unless I'm missing something, this pic is of the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary, you said above you replaced it last year and never rode it? Did you actually mean you replaced the drive axle bearing below the secondary by the speedo pick up?
If this bearing in the pic has never been cleaned/re-packed, I would be suspect, but pull the snap ring and seal out and see what the condition is and go from there. If this maintenance is done seasonally, the bearing lasts a long time.

Yes, the drive axle bearing was replaced. I do need to put lock-tight on the set screws on the collar. I put around over 1500 miles on in in 2015/2016 season. I'm not sure if the previous owner greased that secondary bearing ever. I hope it is clean when I tear it off. Otherwise, are there ways to get it off without tearing the chaincase apart?

 

[midnightrider]

Yes, the drive axle bearing was replaced. I do need to put lock-tight on the set screws on the collar. I put around over 1500 miles on in in 2015/2016 season. I'm not sure if the previous owner greased that secondary bearing ever. I hope it is clean when I tear it off. Otherwise, are there ways to get it off without tearing the chaincase apart?

BTW that rust color is from fluidfilm I sprayed on the shaft last winter.

 

[Winderallday!]

BTW that rust color is from fluidfilm I sprayed on the shaft last winter.

Yes, the drive axle bearing was replaced. I do need to put lock-tight on the set screws on the collar. I put around over 1500 miles on in in 2015/2016 season. I'm not sure if the previous owner greased that secondary bearing ever. I hope it is clean when I tear it off. Otherwise, are there ways to get it off without tearing the chaincase apart?

I have never used loctite on the two set screws on the collar of the drive axle bearing, since they are hard to access, I wouldn't make it any more difficult to remove them than necessary (stripping the heads), plus you wouldn't want any excess loctite seeping into the bearing journal/shaft making it difficult to remove bearing off drive shaft. Just make sure the set screws are snugged up well.
No easy way to get that jackshaft bearing out that I know of, others may have some tips/tricks. Unless the bearing is toast when you pull the seal off, it should still be fine at 7,000miles. I would clean it out as best you can with aresol brake cleaner/light air pressure and repack with good low temp grease, I use Amsoil synthetic. Careful not to pack it too tight as it will heat up and spew grease past the seals.
Would avoid use of any/all wet lube in the area of the clutches as it can spin off and make your belt slip. A light film as a rust preventative on the secondary shaft should be sufficient.
Cheers.

 

[midnightrider]

I have never used loctite on the two set screws on the collar of the drive axle bearing, since they are hard to access, I wouldn't make it any more difficult to remove them than necessary (stripping the heads), plus you wouldn't want any excess loctite seeping into the bearing journal/shaft making it difficult to remove bearing off drive shaft. Just make sure the set screws are snugged up well.
No easy way to get that jackshaft bearing out that I know of, others may have some tips/tricks. Unless the bearing is toast when you pull the seal off, it should still be fine at 7,000miles. I would clean it out as best you can with aresol brake cleaner/light air pressure and repack with good low temp grease, I use Amsoil synthetic. Careful not to pack it too tight as it will heat up and spew grease past the seals.
Would avoid use of any/all wet lube in the area of the clutches as it can spin off and make your belt slip. A light film as a rust preventative on the secondary shaft should be sufficient.
Cheers.

It still looks good. It looks rust colored but I wiped some grease off the bearings and found no rust.