Beeze's Radiator Delete Setup

[beeze455]

(This has been done many many times by others. Mainly get a cat bottle, get coolers and run the hoses.)

Removing the radiator is pretty straight forward and can drop weight in the front and push weight back. You weill be losing the weight of the liquid an in the rad and in the bottle. You will also be rmeoving all the metal of the rad and mounts. It also opens up the engine bay more.

This will not be a step by step! I will simply discuss what I did.

You can simply remove the radiator and replace it with a cat coolant bottle like the one below. Now you won't have enough cooling because you did not make up for the cooliong of the radiator, but it would work.

I got a bottle like this for I think 15 bucks. Turned out it it had a hole in it. Bought new bottle and cap from the dealer for 50 bucks.

So granted the bottle thing won't work alone, but you should understand that the radiator holds no special powers or sensors or anything. Just cooling.

You need to add cooling, so do that somehow. I added some straightened m coolers on the side and rear. I had them in my basement. Anything that flows coolant will work--even an alum pipe.

Now debate where you want your bottle. I prefer to have it high because it is easier to burp the system. OSme people do not even use the bottle and us an inline cap, but that seem like a pain.

You now need to connect the hoses. Depending on coolers used and the bottle used your hose size is most likely between 1" and 7/8" and this is important because auto hoses have ranges inside of those. Personally I think if you can get the hose tight, who cares.

Routing the hose will seem tricky, but it really is not that bad. Get some good beer out and relax.

I ran one hose directly form the front cooler to my m coolers to the bottle to the thermostat housing. Map out what you want to do. Bend a coat hanger for each hose and go to your parts store with the coat hanger. The parts guys have always been nice to me. Running hose that are not pre-bent is asking for problems.

 

[kennyspec]

Is that a rev tank? Care to share some info about it?

 

[beeze455]

Is that a rev tank? Care to share some info about it?

Got it partially hooked up and stood on the sled and instantly hated how wide it was. The poo tank felt great, but need to re-work the bars and buy a pump, so I am running the stock tank.

 

[Grimm]

I feel that this is a really good mod to attempt for Nytro trail riders. More and more, I feel that the radiators in these Nytros don't cool as it should. It just doesn't allow enough cool air to pass through them imo. Even seeing some pics on some of the race sleds, you can see extra vents to increase the air flow. Add a trailtank to the mix and the airflow decreases even more. I would feel more comfortable adding a larger tunnel heat exchanger though, much like the one from MPI.

 

[AKrider]

My experience with the radiator was it didn't work worth a crap. If it can't keep the sled cool in low snow/icy conditions than why even stick it on there?

 

[Alatalo]

I feel that the radiators in these Nytros don't cool as it should. It just doesn't allow enough cool air to pass through them imo.

Exactly.

The problem is not the cooling capacity of the radiator itself (which is more than enough) and the problem is also not the supply of incoming cold air. The problem is the evacuation of hot air behind the radiator. Open up the back of the hood and the front of the fuel tank cover and it will improve a little bit. Unfortunately not much because of the massive fuel tank located right behind the radiator...

 

[yamaha1973]

Unfortunately not much because of the massive fuel tank located right behind the radiator...

Massive? haha

 

[beeze455]

I like my setup for mountain riders. If you are trail rider, do not do this. Put a little water wetter in your coolant and drill out th plastic around your gauge. The mt tech whatever does the same thing and would be my 2nd mod for trail riders. Again, this mod is kinda extreme.