lund
Pro
So i'm looking into doing this during the summer. Removing the radiator and installing a long rear U style heat exchanger.
The plus i'm hoping is getting rid of excessive high mounted weight (rad and coolant) and distributing it more evenly through out the tunnel and rear of tunnel.
Another plus i hope is elimination of excessive snow buildup at the rear.
Any input and anybody done this mod?
The plus i'm hoping is getting rid of excessive high mounted weight (rad and coolant) and distributing it more evenly through out the tunnel and rear of tunnel.
Another plus i hope is elimination of excessive snow buildup at the rear.
Any input and anybody done this mod?
bholmlate
Expert
Lund
This year i am planning on using the same line of thinking and buying a Van Amberg nytro tunnel cooler. It comes with a hefty price tag but from what i have heard from people who have bought the kit. its a really nice unit. I had a tree hugging party a few years ago and dented up my oem Rad. The cost of replacing it doesnt make sense when for a little more I can move some weight to the back and have a WAY more efficient cooling system
This year i am planning on using the same line of thinking and buying a Van Amberg nytro tunnel cooler. It comes with a hefty price tag but from what i have heard from people who have bought the kit. its a really nice unit. I had a tree hugging party a few years ago and dented up my oem Rad. The cost of replacing it doesnt make sense when for a little more I can move some weight to the back and have a WAY more efficient cooling system
natedawgedog
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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what type of turbo do you have on your mtx? that makes a difference on what type of cooler you will need to use, for example mpi's full length tunnel cooler will not work with a rear mount turbo. with that said, if I had a turbo setup I would look at Mountaintech (roest) new coolant system, $300 and plenty of cooling to do a rad delete
lund
Pro
Running the front mount and not the rear mount turbo, Boondocker.
I'm looking at CRs tunnel but he also has a setup that can be installed on the oem tunnel.
I'm looking at CRs tunnel but he also has a setup that can be installed on the oem tunnel.
RX-1 Liter
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I am running 175-190 degrees on the trail with the scratchers always down and I was looking looking at doing my own radiator delete this summer as well. However, I was looking at just running 1 run of 5/8" copper pipe down each side of the tunnel and running the crossover at the back of the tunnel in front of the snowflap. This would be significantly less expensive than an aluminum heat exchanger. Has anyone thought of doing something like this?
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
My Nytro with the supercharger has the radiator delete and undertunnel cooling and it works great.
lund
Pro
After doing more research i'm informed that doing the rad delete on the nytro is best done with a double past cooler and updated tunnel. Especialy on a turbo.
It appears though some have done it with the oem tunnel, a few lost their motors to over heating due to lack of cooling and none with the upgraded tunnel.
Chad at CR-racing encountered the same and suspects that the Nytro tunnel is too blame with no real explanation why.
At this point i am concidering a complete tunnel swap. cooking the motor isn't an option, plus the Nytro tunnel sucks in so many ways.
It appears though some have done it with the oem tunnel, a few lost their motors to over heating due to lack of cooling and none with the upgraded tunnel.
Chad at CR-racing encountered the same and suspects that the Nytro tunnel is too blame with no real explanation why.
At this point i am concidering a complete tunnel swap. cooking the motor isn't an option, plus the Nytro tunnel sucks in so many ways.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
It doesn't make sense to cook the motor from a lack of cooling unless you ignore your temp light. Sled gets hot, light comes on, shut sled off and let it cool down. Pretty simple.
Ive been running without the radiator and thermostat for 3 years with a U-cooler in place of the factory MTX cooler and I've never had problems.
Ive been running without the radiator and thermostat for 3 years with a U-cooler in place of the factory MTX cooler and I've never had problems.
Daranello
Suspended
what about running both?
Daranello
Suspended
also will the U cooler eliminate the ICE buildup?
bholmlate
Expert
I am with Nikolai on this one. Nothing against chad at CR. he is a very knowledgeable guy in the industry and I am sure he is talking from his experience. If the nytro gets hot You shut it down. From reports of MPI rear cooler state it almost runs too cool with both their tunnel cooler and rad. I just don't like the fit and finish of there cooler. The motor failures may have come from improper burbbing the system after install and having an air lock.giving the motor no cooling at all. These engines generate quite a bit of heat. Left uncheck you can burn them down. No doubt
lund
Pro
Yes i thought of it kinda odd. I asked how come and he didn't have an explaination other then he figured the tunnel was to blame.
He said he rebuilt the customers motor because it was his tunnel cooler setup. They went out with it and had a mechanical guage hooked up and the motor constantly operated near 200deg. on the trail. Even with the scratchers. He said the temp. light should come on at 210deg. and in many cases it can be too late, damage can be done at 210deg.
He said that this has not been an issue with the tunnel upgrade....weird.
So now i'm a little parranoid on cooking the motor, i definitely don't want it to run constantly near 200deg. too tight of a margin imo.
He said he rebuilt the customers motor because it was his tunnel cooler setup. They went out with it and had a mechanical guage hooked up and the motor constantly operated near 200deg. on the trail. Even with the scratchers. He said the temp. light should come on at 210deg. and in many cases it can be too late, damage can be done at 210deg.
He said that this has not been an issue with the tunnel upgrade....weird.
So now i'm a little parranoid on cooking the motor, i definitely don't want it to run constantly near 200deg. too tight of a margin imo.
linemech31
Pro
I often got a overtemp warning light on my 09 xtx. Put the ip vent on and have not seen the temp light since. But i do not have boost. However this does nothing to lower the C.G or reduce the ice problem. I hate the weight of the ice. I installed the blockoff plate and feel i wasted my time doing so as the ice still builds. If you are just looking to keep the light off then the ip vent WILL help.
