apex4
Extreme
Need a little help:
my apex on the last two runs varing conditions: did the following;
at a stop, i started to go belt squel sled did not move gas more gas finally went. did this tree times 1 sled was warm starting out. 2 sled was warm started out after i jammed on brakes. 3 time sled sat for an hour and the times had to give more fuel, no i have a vibration @ mid range and lost top end...i think it is just a belt but i broke it in right and only has roughly 2000kms on it this problem just started about 400kms ago... mybe my clutches dirty which if is true what is the best way of cleaning and it my be slides welding to the rails??? any help would be great just wondering if anyone else has had this issue
my apex on the last two runs varing conditions: did the following;
at a stop, i started to go belt squel sled did not move gas more gas finally went. did this tree times 1 sled was warm starting out. 2 sled was warm started out after i jammed on brakes. 3 time sled sat for an hour and the times had to give more fuel, no i have a vibration @ mid range and lost top end...i think it is just a belt but i broke it in right and only has roughly 2000kms on it this problem just started about 400kms ago... mybe my clutches dirty which if is true what is the best way of cleaning and it my be slides welding to the rails??? any help would be great just wondering if anyone else has had this issue
Have you checked your belt deflection? Should be about a 1/16" above secondary, belt should flex about 1 1/4" in between primary and secondary using a straight edge resting on belt. Adjustment washers are on the secondary at the back, clutch needs to be removed to adjust.
Super Sled
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The two things you should look at IMHO are cleaning your clutches well and adjusting the belt deflection (How high it sits up in the secondary). Both will cause the squeel you speak of.
Because you say the belt is new it may be a bit tight, which will cause some squeel until the belt stretches a tad.
I'd more worry about your clutches being dirty. Both internally and the sheave faces. Some take everything apart and clean them with a degreaser and a tooth bruch. I take them apart down to the spider and then clean them up as best I can with a degreaser and a toothbrush. This is for both primary and secondary. then I put them in the dishwasher on HOT and on the scrubber cycle 2 times. Hot water is key. Cleans then up really well.
Also, I learned Cascade will tarninsh your clutches b/c it's too caustic. Just use Dawn dishsoap in the dish washer. I have done this amny times over the last several years and it cleans the clutches up really well and it wont harm the dishwasher at all. Trust me, it won't.
But still, I believe general consensus says to do this when your wife is not home nontheless......
Afterwards I scuff up my clutch faces with 400 grit sandpaper to get all the residue off and for a bit more traction/ belt grab. I like doing this and it hurt nothing. It's an old racer's trick. But others prefer to use emory cloth as it's a bit less abrasive.
Because you say the belt is new it may be a bit tight, which will cause some squeel until the belt stretches a tad.
I'd more worry about your clutches being dirty. Both internally and the sheave faces. Some take everything apart and clean them with a degreaser and a tooth bruch. I take them apart down to the spider and then clean them up as best I can with a degreaser and a toothbrush. This is for both primary and secondary. then I put them in the dishwasher on HOT and on the scrubber cycle 2 times. Hot water is key. Cleans then up really well.
Also, I learned Cascade will tarninsh your clutches b/c it's too caustic. Just use Dawn dishsoap in the dish washer. I have done this amny times over the last several years and it cleans the clutches up really well and it wont harm the dishwasher at all. Trust me, it won't.
But still, I believe general consensus says to do this when your wife is not home nontheless......
Afterwards I scuff up my clutch faces with 400 grit sandpaper to get all the residue off and for a bit more traction/ belt grab. I like doing this and it hurt nothing. It's an old racer's trick. But others prefer to use emory cloth as it's a bit less abrasive.
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The book for my 06 says to be 1/16 above to .05" below. I just replace my belt on the trail after running the same one for 4000 miles and the new one was sitting even. Seemed to run fine.779cookies said:
Did you check your hyfax reading other threads its looks like that may be the problem.
When I buy new belts, I take sewing tape measure with me and measure the new belts at dealership before I buy, oem or aftermarket they are all abit different lengths. Different lengths mean they will sit differently in secondary, changing deflection. If you are welding your hyfax to the track you should be able to smell it, especially the guy behind you! You should also see residue on the clips of the track. Was the tunnel free of ice when you say it was warmed up? The time when you hammered the brake, the secondary may have not backshifted out fully, pinching belt. You may scalloped the inside of the belt trying to get it moving, which is the vibration your feeling at midrange. Just trying to think of possible things that fit all examples.
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779cookies said:
^^^^^^
I would say that these are/were your issues.
Change the belt.
Blow out the clutches with compressed air and clean the sheaves and other moving parts with brake clean and Scotchbrite.
Super Sled
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I agree with all above comments. But a concern I'd have is cleaning the inside of the clutches well. Dirty clutches often lead to belts and clutches gettign really, really hot. For the belt to get melty and leave marks on the sheave faces means that clutch must have been pretty hot. A good cleaninh of both clutches and a new belt should do the trick.
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Super Sled said:
It left marks on the clutch because it was trying to start out in 4th gear and it actually spins the belt in the clutches until the secondary backshifts some and "tightens" the belt back up, it will leave ugly black marks in the clutch while it is trying to do this.
Remove the clutches, blow them out with compressed air, wash them with hot soapy water, blow them out with compressed air again. Buy a new belt, buy a stainless steel welding brush and brush the sides of the belt all the way around several times and then wash it in hot soapy water as well. Set your belt deflection like stated in this tech article here http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/belts/beltdeflect.htm don't worry about if the belt is above or below the secondary sheave as that means nothing as the center to center distance, belt diameter, etc all vary. Set your belt deflection like the tech article states and that is the correct way to set it for your particular sled.
The only other thing you left out is mileage you have on your Apex. It may be time simply to replace the secondary buttons and the primary and secondary springs.
apex4
Extreme
update; milage is 5000kms hard miles love getting on/off the trottle.. replaced my first belt 2000kms ago..first belt blew apart on highspeed running after i smoked it loading@@@... looked at belt no scalloping but belt below secondary which was not the case when i put it on on trail...vibration is most concern as no indications on belt... i would love to go this weekend to see if the belt is the cause but it is april and lots of rain know.. the lose of top end i do beleive is the belt as i stated eariler belt below secaondary.. i did not smell slides at all..but will look at track clips for sighs of welding thanks for all the insight.. i am also going to take a look @ driveshaft & bearing would love to know Before next riding season...
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
end of season means change or regrease the bearing so the water doesn't set up the bearing. Normal maintenace, do um all.
