type809
Veteran
Hey guys, over the weekend I did the Bender oil system relocation deal, and installed the quiet exhaust. Warmed sled up, retightened everything, everything seemed OK. I also found where my oil that was getting on the clutches was coming from. The cam chain rubber gasket on the PTO side had a little rubber piece sticking out, don't understand why it was built that way, but I shoved it back in and sealed with some silicone and no more leak. But, back to the important stuff, took sled out for first run, and it built boost, but wouldn't hold it. It seemed to be loading up, so I feather on the boost until it held like 10lbs, and the sled ran OK. I thought that maybe jetting was now fat with the quiet exhaust taking up space in the rear, and it couldn't breathe as well. So I changed the Pitot jet from 400 to 700, remove all covers, but it didn't seem to make a difference, and the sled started to not hold any boost. AFR show's 15 on idle and 12 in mid up to 30mph, then 9's as sled starts to burble due to no boost. Looking at things, sled starts, idles, and runs up to 30 just fine, the turbo seems to spool, new oil lines are warm(flowing), can't find exhaust leak, I can't move controller by hand, should I be able too? 0 boost on trail or stand. So question is, what the hell happened?, and what should I look for to fix. Thanks guys.
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
Exhaust restriction causing less boost? Cracked header from extra heat/backpressure from exhaust.
KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2004
- Messages
- 4,847
- Reaction score
- 6,112
- Points
- 1,733
- Location
- Welch MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2023 Sidewinder LTX-LE
2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Ant time I hear oil blowing out or leaking I become suspect of engine condition. If it is blowing gasket out, it is a fried engine! They are not built with valve cover gasket hanging out I can assure you. I have seen this before. Do a comp or a leakdown test. DO NOT CONTINUE TO RUN TILL YOU CHECK!!!!!!! Mike Knapp#17
type809
Veteran
Mike, I thought the same thing right away, but if you have time to look at this, I think it will explain what I'm talking about
look at the # 16 gasket, it's those two semi-circle rubber pieces on the end. like I said, I don't know why they're there, but oil seeping through there didn't seem like a problem, and it's no longer leaking. Sled runs fine without boost, am I still looking at trouble?
look at the # 16 gasket, it's those two semi-circle rubber pieces on the end. like I said, I don't know why they're there, but oil seeping through there didn't seem like a problem, and it's no longer leaking. Sled runs fine without boost, am I still looking at trouble?
Attachments
type809 said:
I'd pull your valve cover off and clean the mating surfaces. Then, peen the area where those 4 pieces meet the head. Use either Yamabond or a high tack Permatex to seal everything again on re-assembly.
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
Where those 1/2 moons go you can try to peen the head there to hold them in if they are blowing out from high boost.
Take Mike's advice on this and give the engine a going over. If everything is still good, I'd go back to a last known good set-up. If the sled works again the way it used to, make one change at a time until you can isolate what the problem is. Blowing the valve cover gasket out isn't the source of a problem, it is the symptom (result) of one. You have to find the problem...
