Best Clutch Kit for Sidewinder

[krm]

I agree with that. They usually put lame profiles in stock weights for the masses as they don't know who's riding it, where, how etc. What are you using for clutching? Do you have a reflash at all?

As far as Rob, he is doing side work on boats and some sleds and works part time at a local boat shop (excell marine I believe). I'm in law enforcement now and have been since 2005 but I donsode work on skis and sleds as well and I have Rob doing some machine work for me from time to time and he still has all his porting tools, boring bars, hone etc.

Back in the day we raced with Rob ,Team Orange racing .Now Skip and myself do our own thing .Me sleds,boats,pwc .him construction .

 

[jetpilot785]

I like the black/blue Dalton primary spring. Its a 53/133kg and is roughly 12mm shorter then the stock primary spring, combined with glide washers.

The issue with stock spring IMO is its the LONGEST Yammie spring made on their chart, its 110.1 mm in total length, and I believe this has a TON to do with why it gets so distorted in the "very un-harmonic" triple clutch. Pair that with no glide washers and under compression it cannot help but distort.

Stock gold/red/gold primary spring is a 55/105kg. There are other shorter springs on the chart as you can see, and many of them will help with bind. It seems many of the "kit" tuners are using a low engagement spring around 35kg. They are combining them with weights with much more curve, and less overal weight. I tend to like the initial rpms higher with this sled, to get onto the boost sooner.

Gonna be fun season.



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It's cool they use the same spring chart as the viper. I have several of those springs already from tinkering with viper clutching. I can see why tuners go with softer engagement springs. Makes for a smoother take off but will load the engine sooner making for more exhaust pressure at a lower rpm and will make the engine boost sooner and quicker with that load low in the rpm range. I haven't ridden one yet so I don't know what the characteristics are for it and what it will like or what I will like. Just looking for a good baseline setup with a good weight profile and tunability and I will dick around a little with it and see what I like and don't like and go from there.

I tend to like a strong pull all the way through and with the viper I like the green silver green primary with the d&d magna force weights with a heavier heel and mid load on the weight. I think I ran around 63-64 grams on the weights and it seemed pretty happy there for my style. I found if you had too much spring and not enough weight, like my experience in the old 2 stroke days, the motor made a lot of noise and didn't pull. I also like efficiency when trail riding and the heavier weights help shift the clutch out more than a lighter weight making the sled pull harder in the mid range but when cruising, the clutches shifted out more bringing the mph up while keeping the rpms lower getting more range per tank. May not be the best for top end as it labored to pull the weight up top but for 95% of the riding we do which is in the 30-80mph range, it was a nice setup. I'm not sure which direction I'm going in as far as weight profile and design but the daltons look inviting for the ease of adjustments. The magna force were nice but that required pulling the belt off and pulling the spring out every time and it got to be a pain in the #*$&@ but the viper was also a turd on top end so it was more time consuming trying to find an acceptable level were as the sidewinder will probably have room to spare and may need as much fussing to make it feel good all around.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Lots of good info in this thread...

 

[rnusr01]

I believe our clutch kit is very high performance. I had no issues winning drag racers, radar events, running 150mph+ with the same clutch Kit I ship with my high performance trail kits.
Dalton adjustable weights and stock secondary with shims for coil bind. Add dalton primary springs for drag racers.

For Ultimate racing setup I go full STM clutches but I've done very well with the yamaha clutches up to 26 psi of boost.

Hi Ben,

I bought your Dalton clutch kit but you were out of the blk/grn spring for primary so I got a blk/blu. Can you recomend a starting configuration for how much weight and where? I also have your PT-CAI TUNE with stock mod muffler.

Thanks

 

[Kevin]

Thought I would bring this thread back since everyone must have it figured out by now...lol
For anyone that actually has a STOCK sidewinder who's clutch kit are you using?
I still have my thunder products kit and seems to work well
Thunder products big venom kit
Thunder products orange secondary spring 2-3
33/35 helix
XS825 belt

 

[jonlafon1]

Just to many variables for the word "best" No offense Kevin.. I think the key to any of this clutching is obviously running around 9000 peak RPM.. But controlling belt heat with proper offset and secondary spring pressure is the big thing with these sleds.. And one combo may work on one sled and not on another. One guy holds it for 5 miles another does a few long pulls a year. Testing with a heat gun and or having a belt temp gauge is the ONLY way to really get the "best " clutch kit. Running(temp checks) and testing and observing secondary clutch sheaves will be the key. I prefer slightly more helix angle then others, others like the stock 35.. Its all about putting some time in and paying attention to details on "your" set up. I made the mistake thinking a 2022 would run good with the offset most found to be good on my 2017(57.8 MM).. 59.1 MM seems to be the "spot" on my 2022.. Just a example of what I mean about testing and checking temps.

 

[Kevin]

Great info and so true
I should have said favorite clutch kit...lol

 

[Sledroll]

Thought I would bring this thread back since everyone must have it figured out by now...lol
For anyone that actually has a STOCK sidewinder who's clutch kit are you using?
I still have my thunder products kit and seems to work well
Thunder products big venom kit
Thunder products orange secondary spring 2-3
33/35 helix
XS825 belt

A stock SW must have a stock clutch set up to be stock !
When I had the Yamaha clutching update done to my 17 , which I believe was the helix and arms , it made a noticeable difference in spooling up .That was the case for 2 weeks , until I decided to get the 240 tune , which upped the bar even more .
I haven't ridden it this year , but prior to this year , I have only used 5 belts for 16,000 klms .
I blew one belt riding high revs across a lake for a half hour in 2 feet of fluffy snow . Not smart on my part .
I blew one belt with large klms. on it ,just to see how long it would last .
I still have the other 3 belts as spares !
That's pretty amazing , in my books , but I am a spoiled long time RX-1/Apex owner from 2003 to 2017, that has a bunch of partly worn 8DN belts laying around , waiting to be called to duty , as 2nd choice back ups .
Based on my history I have never hesitated to buy a first year release from anyone, and will continue that trend !
That's coming from a guy who bought a 2005 Mach 1000 , and got real lucky , with 2 years of unbelievable speed and handling , and just happened to sell it a month before it blew up !!
As much as the 8JP belt is plenty good for at least a stock winder , it is a dust monster ,and when you have a white cowling (SRX 22) , that is enough reason to switch to the XS 825 , if you are willing to make the necessary weight changes , if you want to maintain the peak rpm .
Whatever version of a Sidewinder you may choose to ride , it is an amazing sled , when set up properly !