Better way to due Jackshaft bearing

[davessrx]

So lucky me my jackshaft bearing behind the secondary blew apart this weekend. (3000 miles!!!) At least the season is done for us its 50 outside. I can't believe the only way to get this thing out is to take the entire jackshaft out. Stupid design for sure. Anyone have a short cut? I have a lot of tools to use and a welder! Let the ideas fly.

Also my tors was acting up like crazy thought it might be related, of course I'm like the "angry Ontario snowmobilier" on youtube and my throttle switch is bad! Tested it with my fluke meter tonight! The hell with TORS!!! I'll be putting a normally closed tether in it's place.

 

[Dara]

You likely lost the speedo when the bearing went out on you. that would be why the TORS is acting up.

Fix the bearing and speedo and all will be back to normal

 

[MadMax]

I think there is a set screw on the bearing that must be removed.. It may be rusted on the shaft, won't be easy. The new ones cost about $30.oo+. MM.

 

[sx7001]

So lucky me my jackshaft bearing behind the secondary blew apart this weekend. (3000 miles!!!) At least the season is done for us its 50 outside. I can't believe the only way to get this thing out is to take the entire jackshaft out. Stupid design for sure. Anyone have a short cut? I have a lot of tools to use and a welder! Let the ideas fly.

Also my tors was acting up like crazy thought it might be related, of course I'm like the "angry Ontario snowmobilier" on youtube and my throttle switch is bad! Tested it with my fluke meter tonight! The hell with TORS!!! I'll be putting a normally closed tether in it's place.

Yes the 06-10's are a bitch if you blow the jack shaft bearing... 11+ are sooooo much easier, like under 20 minutes to do the bearing. All done from the secondary side...

 

[Teamblue4]

Its not a bad job to do, 1 1/2 hours at the most, at least half your service work is done for next season. bring it down to me if you cant get it.

 

[YammyRX1]

I think there is a set screw on the bearing that must be removed.. It may be rusted on the shaft, won't be easy. The new ones cost about $30.oo+. MM.

The set screw is on the Speedo bearing, the Jackshaft bearing has a locking split ring. Not sure what sled you have but if it's later than 2005 it probably has the locking collar behind the bearing which you can get off with the right size shock wrench, channel locks, or a long screw driver and hammer. Then you can try welding a slide hammer to the bearing to get it out. On the other hand, if this bearing went it might be a good idea to just bite the bullet and change all four and become one with your chaincase. There are instructions in the Tech section.

 

[MadMax]

I think there is a set screw on the bearing that must be removed.. It may be rusted on the shaft, won't be easy. The new ones cost about $30.oo+. MM.

The set screw is on the Speedo bearing, the Jackshaft bearing has a locking split ring. Not sure what sled you have but if it's later than 2005 it probably has the locking collar behind the bearing which you can get off with the right size shock wrench, channel locks, or a long screw driver and hammer. Then you can try welding a slide hammer to the bearing to get it out. On the other hand, if this bearing went it might be a good idea to just bite the bullet and change all four and become one with your chaincase. There are instructions in the Tech section.

05 vector..MM

 

[thor452]

everyone is on the right track here but be mindfull of the diffrence the drive shaft is the one that drives the track and is lower in the chain case and has the speed sensor reading off it and when that berring goes it will wipe out the speed sensor but is pretty easy to change and yes has a set screw with a torx head. the jack shaft is higher in the chain case and is driven by the secondary clutch and requires the jack shaft to be removed to replace and has a lock collar holding it in. both should have shields removed and be greased at least every season end to prevent rust in the off season as this is the sure way to have failer on you first 500 miles of the year. use a pick to remove shield and a needle point grease gun to get plenty of fresh grease inbetween the balls of the bearing.also if you are replacing one i would do at min both of thease and consider the chain case ones as well but they are oil bath and less likely to fail for many thousands of miles.

 

[davessrx]

JACKSHAFT, not driveshaft. (thanks for noticing Thor452) Driveshaft bearing will also get done at some point but this is the jackshaft...behind secondary.

Thought maybe somebody had a special tool to get it apart.

Tors is jumped at the bars and is OK now. Throttle block which is closed circuit when hit would go into mega ohms (should be less than an ohm) at times with throttle en-gauged.

 

[YammyRX1]

I made a special tool out of a thin wall pipe once to get it off without taking the chaincase apart-I will have to post a picture later. If I had a welder I would probably tack it to a slide hammer though.

 

[davessrx]

yes!!! I need those pics! I have a welder also.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

yes!!! I need those pics! I have a welder also.

Make two while you're at it OK?

 

[YammyRX1]

So the hard part is getting the tapered split ring out of the bearing. I think I used a lot of penetrating oil and cut a piece of pipe in half like a saddle over the jackshaft and used a pry bar from the inside (and maybe a hammer) to force it out. Then I found a thin wall pipe that fit over the jackshaft and inside the bearing. I cut four notches on the end and left four 3/8 x 3/8 'ears'. I inserted this through the bearing and used piers to bend the ears over and then pulled it back against the bearing. I heated the outer bearing housing with a torch, put a large punch through the holes in the other end of the pipe and used a hammer to persuade the bearing out. It wasn't easy, and if the split ring is seized in there you will probably have to take the chaincase apart. Good luck.

 

[davessrx]

this would work fine except I'm screwed. My bearing fell into pieces and the outer bearing race is about impossible to get out. I can't pull from behind because it seats to the bulkhead and the ridge the balls run in are pretty smooth. My chaincase will come apart and shaft will come out. I'm thinking I'll have to weld a piece of metal across the outer bearing race and use my slide hammer to remove it. Thanks for the pictures, great idea!!!

 

[chadman]

If you weld a bead all the way around the inside of the outer race and then cool it off quick with water or ice than it will shrink and then you can pry it out. I do it all the time at work.