Bolt On's for best performance?

[T T Bone]

No one has mentioned a track upgrade. From everybody I talk to they say it totally changes this sled. I'll let you know when mine is done,lol

I put a Camoplast 1.5 Crossover track last week and let me tell you that this upgrade totally change my sled. The traction that I have now is way better than the stock ripsaw.

If you ask me, having more power without traction will do nothing good to your sled. Traction is key, putting the HP to the snow.

My friend has a 2008 XP 800R and he use to always get me on 600 feet by at least 3 sled lenghts. After my track change I was ahead 4 out of 5 times by 2 - 3 seld lenghts. So my track change gave me a 3 to 5 lenghts of improvement. No loss in topend and way better corner to corner in trails too.

So now I can go into clutching and exhaust because I know I has minimal track spin.

96-144 studs, should not have a traction issue anymore.

114 studs in my 144" track, and I still have lots of traction issues. Depends on your snow conditions.

Why only 114 in a track that long??

 

[NFLD-Nytro]

Why only 114 in a track that long??

Two per lug is plenty for me. With the longer track you end up with alot of studs on the snow at one time. I went with a full 144 on my 121" Dragon when I had it, but on both the 144" tracks I've had I've found 114 to be lots, especially as I spend as much time off trail as I can.

 

[T T Bone]

Need some help again guys.

Yamaha riders,
Our club was ice drag racing Saturday. Had a great weekend again in Wisconsin. Traction and handling was a issue for sure. Most all sleds were spinning from take off. My sled ran 3 passes @ 1000 feet 93,94,94. The speedo said different from the radar? This was a Artic Cat friends, lodge owner race and nobody I have been around like Yamaha sleds? I did take the sled too 102mph and had to get out because of poor conditions on another lake. There was a couple 1000 turbo Artic Cats that ran 105. I will be back @ this race next year. So lets talk about issues I had.. Traction on ice drags I could not launch hard. I removed the weights from the clutch and that let it rev more almost 9000 rpm's still pulling I think the clutch is fine? The sled did slow down with studs installed and steering on the trail sucked. Very hard to turn with snow, would not turn on ice. The rear end stayed put because of the studs, that I liked just not on the lake. I want to add the muffler Excell has because I will beat those cats next year. I am going to order 9" carbides for my USI 201's, is that good? What should I try to get this hard steering fixed? What adjustments should I try? I need this sled the fastest it will be, easy to steer and handle on the trails, I know it can be done! Maybe that is why nobody likes the Yamaha sleds? I hated mine when I first bought it. Now it needs fine tuned and it will be the fastest, most comfortable and reliable sled I have ever owned. What about better traction on the ice but not changing the handling on the trail? Can that happen? P/S they ran me with the 1000's. If I ran with 600's I was the fastest there Thanks for your help and support!

Central Illinois Ditch Riders Member
Tony Shoaff AKA TT BONE

 

[sorenson1610]

I would avoid the 9" bars if you want to have it steer easier. All the 9" will do is make it steer heavier. As far as the handling department, what do you have it set at now? Straps, clickers, etc. From there you should get some good advice and direction from the guys on here. For me it was a lot of trial and error testing to get mine were I wanted it. Constantly adjusting stuff

 

[T T Bone]

Not a problem let me check and get right back with adjustment settings. The sled was pushing bad. Two people I talked too said get the USI skis off and put the factory skis back on with doolie carbides?

 

[T T Bone]

Frt shocks medium settings, rear spring 1 turn down, front limit all the way up, medium setting in rear spring torsion bars? Center shock with adjustment screw all the way soft. Anything I miss ? Thanks

 

[sorenson1610]

Don't do the dualies, they pushed really bad for me. I use stock skis with 6" roetin bars. Only $50 too, maybe try that if your thinking stock skis. They dart some but have good bit and your not getting pushed through the corners. As far as the settings, I have a rtx so some stuff is different I think? Maybe try to loosen up the center spring for less preload. Set toe out to 1/4 or 1/2 and shim your skis too. I think its either 1/8 or a 1/4 but there is a topic on that if you do a search. For the shock settings, did you start from the stock settings? You might want to try to drop the rear strap one hole, helped with ski lift/cornering but hindered wheelies. Hope this helps!