Boosted Nytro Ignition Issues

[Northernboy]

Sent you a PM.

 

[mbarryracing]

The voltage drop is on the wires above the starter solenoid, I have noticed the same corrosion issues you talk about, I actually replaced all 3 of the wire ends and cleaned up the spade terminals and dielectric greased up the whole thing.

I am guessing there is more then a starter relay in that box since it has 3 wires coming in on the top, 2 of which do not have power until you turn on the ignition, and I agree with you, .4V seems like a ton of drop without the sled running. I checked on the input of the solenoid, 12.3V and the 10 amp fuse has 12.3V on both sides. the red/white wire and blue/white wire only have 11.88V

I circled the wire

Guess I should go get a new starter solenoid.

Something that is often overlooked, too. Remove that little green box on the right in the picture and check the resistance across that terminals on it, too. It's a fuse for main power and we've had a few that were intermittent / loose internally and were causing the coils to shut down while driving under load... If it's bad or going bad, you will see unstable / inconsistent readings with a voltmeter while holding it and moving it around.

 

[toolman11k]

Thanks, I had checked that already, i decided to test drive with a multimeter hooked to the red/white wire and check voltage, all was OK.

Ordered a Crank Sensor based on a bunch of searching i did on all sorts of posted issues, and it seemed like that may be a common issue.

I pulled mine out and inspected it, all looks good, it ohms at 418 ohms, however could be a high RPM issue. Waiting for new crank sensor to show at the dealer, keeping my fingers crossed this will do the trick.

I am thinking it is a RPM related issue since it does not seem to matter how fast I squeeze the throttle, it just shuts down at higher boost, however that also means higher RPM. the goofy thing is it is not consistent, for a while after checking and cleaning a bunch of items, I was able to run to 10 # of boost before it shut down, let it sit for 3 hours and back down to 5# and shuts down.

Time to sit and wait for the dealer to get my part in and watch the snow melt.

 

[toolman11k]

Update:

Problem seems to be fixed, the dealer got the crank sensor last night, I installed it this morning and test rode it. No more codes, no more shut down. I am not 1000% sure due to the fact over a foot of snow melted yesterday and I had to test it in the remaining snow we have which is slushy so it was hard to hook up hard, however I had it wide open, full boost and it did not skip a beat.

Found a lot of good information reading through different peoples experiences which led me to try a crank sensor.

Like any electrical part just because it looks ok, and ohm checks ok, and wires look ok, there is not a great way to test it under a full load.

Hopes this helps someone else.

Steps I would recommend people take to try and solve a similar issue on 08 nytro (code 33,34,35) and shut down at WOT / high RPM are as follows:

- Check and clean the terminals above the starter solenoid (real problems on many apex / nytro models)
- Check the ground wire next to the ECU (only on 08, seems they re-located on the newer ones)
- Check the connector coming off the ignition switch for corrosion
- Check Fuse Block (next to reverse lever) - corrosion etc
- Check wiring next to the water pump (primary clutch) seems like there are issues rubbing through
- Check wiring on crank sensor behind the little steel plate (sometimes rub through there)
- Check voltage supplied to the coils (should be approx battery voltage)
- Ohm Check the coils
- Last resort try a crank sensor (seemed to work for me and quite a few others)

Thanks for everyone's ideas / suggestions.
Hoping for one more snow fall this year to ride some more.......boost puts a smile on my face.......

 

[rxrider]

Great to hear you got it fixed.

As a general rule I recommend hooking up electrical equipment directly to the Battery.

Connect a lead wire to the positive + battery pole.
Install a fuse of appropiate AMPS on the lead.
Use a lead wire of appropriate Dimensions for the Power supply needed.
Use a relay to switch Power to the equipment on startup.
The Yamaha ECU is sensitive to drops in Voltage.
Running off the battery eliminates those problems.

 

[toolman11k]

Excellent thought, i am tearing it all apart this summer to clean things up, a relay and fuse holder will do the trick and I can power gauges and all the other stuff off of that.

I am installing a OFT steering re-locator so I can also move the radiator and fan forward to make the trail tank fit a little better, so good time to all of that.

Thanks for the idea.

 

[rxrider]

That is what I'm doing With all my addon stuff.
Meth Injection system.
Innovate AFR system.