Bought 2009 Nytro XTX; Have a few questions

[yamaha06]

Well I ended up buying the 09 xtx, it was in mint condition, I checked the subframe it looked straight, the bogey wheels were all good, the track was good, he had it studded but they weren't dead center so they didn't seem to hit the top of the shock very much The only concerns I had were when I would push down on the rear on the sled it would rebound a bit but I would have to lift it like about 4" to get it back up all the way, so I don't think thats normal but the sled only has 1600km on it and there was no oil leakage out of the shock, I don't think a shock could be bad that fast. I talked to the yamaha dealership and they said that was normal and once you ride it a bit it will return to normal, I have no clue if this is true. And another thing was the handle bars have that black yamaha center piece thing that comes down to a V on top of the gas tank and it has actually wore a groove into the plastic, Im not sure if he has lowered the steering or what. But anyway the sliders are not bad but what kind of sliders would you guys recommend or would the oem ones be the best. Im also looking into ice scratchers, which do you guys run? I am going to be doing an oil change also, what synthetic oil is everyone else using? Thanks

 

[Straight_up_XTX]

Quick answers:

Suspension sag is normal it's just how the XTX skid is. There are some things to help gt rid of the sag if it bothers you too much.

Sliders: I ordered white UHMW sliders for my xtx afrer the stock ones wore through . I ordered them from Royal Distributing... But i live in Canada so...

Ice Scratcher: I'm going to try the tric scratchers this year... you can get them through your yamaha dealer.

Synthetic Oil: I run the full synthetic 0-40 yamalube, I know alot of people run 0-40 full synthetic amsoil as well and seem to swear by it.

Hope this helps.

 

[#1Wolverine]

I have a 2011 with 777 miles and suspension is the same as yours as far as saging, not sure that it is any different from factory.

 

[yamaha06]

Quick answers:

Suspension sag is normal it's just how the XTX skid is. There are some things to help gt rid of the sag if it bothers you too much.

Sliders: I ordered white UHMW sliders for my xtx afrer the stock ones wore through . I ordered them from Royal Distributing... But i live in Canada so...

Ice Scratcher: I'm going to try the tric scratchers this year... you can get them through your yamaha dealer.

Synthetic Oil: I run the full synthetic 0-40 yamalube, I know alot of people run 0-40 full synthetic amsoil as well and seem to swear by it.

Hope this helps.

Have you had good luck with them sliders from Royal Distributing? I live in Ontario also, and go there quite often, I don't think the Royal has tric scratchers do they?

 

[canoehead]

Nytro

Pop the plastic off the handle bar and flip it around (the point is supposed to be clear of the plastic).
Sliders is any choice you want. (Yamaha is coming out with a new Hyfax this November, they're pricey at $150.00 pr., but I don't recommend them with stock tracks, every 3rd window clipped on the ripsaw. The track will be eaten in no time)
Sag can be reduced by adding Hygear suspension savers and a X-Klick billeted torsion spring cams .
I don't run ice scratchers I have X-wheels.
I run 0-40 Amsoil full synthetic.
Good luck and enjoy.

 

[yamaha06]

Alright thanks, he must of put that cover on the wrong way, how often do you guys change your chain case oil? I haven't gotten the manual yet I'm sure it's all in there, is there any other annual tune ups or things that should be done before the snow flys?

 

[#1Wolverine]

Every year I grease, change oil and filter, chain case, clean up clutches.

 

[canoehead]

Alright thanks, he must of put that cover on the wrong way, how often do you guys change your chain case oil? I haven't gotten the manual yet I'm sure it's all in there, is there any other annual tune ups or things that should be done before the snow flys?

There is a manual for free available on this site.

 

[sr12345]

Congrats on your purchase. Things to be aware of with a 09 XTX:
- Heated grips might be really weak. If you ride on cold conditions, consider either gauntlets, or install Yamaheaters.
- The stock windshield doesn't deflect much wind. If you do a lot of higher speed trail riding, you might want a taller windshield.
- The stock skinny skis won't support a front-heavy machine like an XTX in deep snow. At the very least, consider wider skis if you drive in the soft stuff.
- Nytros have a tendency to dart side-to-side when traveling in a straight line and under steer in the corners. Upgrading to dual-runner carbides helps tremendously.
- The stock suspension leaves a lot to be desired (seemingly either too soft or two harsh). Although expensive, a tuned suspension, such as from Hygear, can be money very well spent.
- There's no storage on these!
- Ice has a tendency to build up near the muffler, and come off in large chunks. A tunnel block off it, particularly at the rear of the tunnel, solves this.
- The hyfax typically wears about six inches or so from the front. Watch this area. Additional wheels solve this problem.
- The stock clutch can be grabby for low-speed riding.

Get these dialed in to your satisfaction, and you'll have a great machine!

 

[00-NUKE]

Congrats on your purchase. Things to be aware of with a 09 XTX:
- Heated grips might be really weak. If you ride on cold conditions, consider either gauntlets, or install Yamaheaters.
- The stock windshield doesn't deflect much wind. If you do a lot of higher speed trail riding, you might want a taller windshield.
- The stock skinny skis won't support a front-heavy machine like an XTX in deep snow. At the very least, consider wider skis if you drive in the soft stuff.
- Nytros have a tendency to dart side-to-side when traveling in a straight line and under steer in the corners. Upgrading to dual-runner carbides helps tremendously.
- The stock suspension leaves a lot to be desired (seemingly either too soft or two harsh). Although expensive, a tuned suspension, such as from Hygear, can be money very well spent.
- There's no storage on these!
- Ice has a tendency to build up near the muffler, and come off in large chunks. A tunnel block off it, particularly at the rear of the tunnel, solves this.
- The hyfax typically wears about six inches or so from the front. Watch this area. Additional wheels solve this problem.
- The stock clutch can be grabby for low-speed riding.

Get these dialed in to your satisfaction, and you'll have a great machine!

IMO: I agree 99%. I haven't had that much luck with dual runner skis on the nytro. Wider skis for sure. (7in. Minimum)
Also - The sag is from the XTX's dual shock transfer system. I think it is WAY too much transfer. I ordered the stock poly washers used on the top side of those transfer rods and added more to suck up some of the rear end and it eliminated the sag and took some weight off of the front end.

One other thing - I'm a true believer in the OFT relocation kit for the handle bars. I wouldn't ride another Nytro without one!

Good Luck!

 

[yamaha06]

Thanks for the tips guys, I cant wait for the snow, I am going to change the oil and chaincase oil grease it all up. Do you have to let these warm up at all before you get on the gas, when putting it on the trailer I noticed at first it would bog a very little, maybe the carbs need cleaning im not sure? I am also looking at getting an MBRP exhaust for it, the guy put a heel kicker clutch kit on it so with getting this exhaust will I have to rejet this thing?

 

[natedawgedog]

there is no rejetting involved, its a efi with throttlebodies, when warming up the sled, when the redlight goes off you should be good to go. do some research before you buy a muffler for it, imho you wont really see a power difference with a mbrp muffler for it alone, at least thats what my observations have been with trying one out on my sled for a day.

 

[IA Rider]

Mine sags abought 4" also. I us amsoil 0-40 and change the chain case oil every time I change the engine oil. I use amsoil 80-90 synthetic in chaincase.

 

[#1Wolverine]

I always turn the key on and let everything cycle, then start and dont touch the throttle until red light goes out or rpms stabilize at 1500. If its not that cold out light wont come on, but still let the rpms stabilize at 1500. -100 +100. This will prevent you from fouling plugs. These sled are fuel injected not catrbed so no carb cleaning needed.

 

[natedawgedog]

I always turn the key on and let everything cycle, then start and dont touch the throttle until red light goes out or rpms stabilize at 1500. If its not that cold out light wont come on, but still let the rpms stabilize at 1500. -100 +100. This will prevent you from fouling plugs. These sled are fuel injected not catrbed so no carb cleaning needed.

I forgot about the bold also!
but unless the sled has been only sitting for a little while, my red light always comes on for a little bit.