Broken Front Heat Exchanger

[equillibrium88]

In my last post, I had found somebody to Tig weld the hole in the front heat exchanger. Turns out he keeps chasing pin holes from residual coolant in the rad. My buddy's got a steamer but we gotta get rad out first.
Case in point, I bought a used heat exchanger of ebay for a steal of $72 sure beats the $900 my dealer offered me. I know the engine has got to come out along with the reverse but can I just remove one side of casting? Say the clutch side? There is no procedure like this in the service manual. I know the exchanger is just held on the tunnel by a few rivets it just its in the worst possible spot and will require complete disassembly. Is there a way to remove the engine without the factory engine spacer wrench? Not sure how much that thing is but I'm pretty sure it won't be cheap.

Matt

 

[equillibrium88]

I will also be photographing this repair job for anyone else unfortunate enough to have to do this, it could serve as some reference. It's sure to be an adventure.

 

[Handy]

Go to the RS forum, at the top of the page is a sticky on cam chain tensioner replacement, in this post is info on making your own engine mount tool as they must be removed to access cam chain tensioner on the three cylinder engines.

 

[RoicIND]

I'm fairly certain you can dismount the tunnel with the front heat exchanger from the two side plates and keep the motor suspended between the two plates and then reassemble

 

[equillibrium88]

That would make life easier. Can't find anything about how those castings are held on in the service manual. I'm on Ronnies Microfiche now trying to see how it attaches.

 

[cannondale27]

I'm fairly certain you can dismount the tunnel with the front heat exchanger from the two side plates and keep the motor suspended between the two plates and then reassemble

This makes most sense.

 

[equillibrium88]

I think the only issue with removing the engine/castings from the tunnel is the simple fact that the heat exchanger bolts into the bottom half of those castings. It's a tight fit and I'd doubt we would be able to get the rad in there without loosening the side plates somewhat. There is also a bracket that is attached to the non-finned side of the heat exchanger that must attach to something behind the engine.

My other alternative is to remove the casting from the clutch side eliminating the removal of the reverse mechanism, brake, chain-case etc. This way only the clutches need to be removed and possibly the steering gate.

 

[equillibrium88]

Problem now fixed. Broke my camera so no photos. The procedure was quite involved.
You cannot simply unbolt the castings from the tunnel and then weasel the heat exchanger in with the engine wedged between.
We (my mechanic friend and I) decided to loosen the left casting, pull out the old one and then slide in the new one.
Removed clutches, battery tray, brake, chaincase, unbolt the secondary shaft (but not remove) exhaust and remove the rear engine mount.
Slide in the new rad by pulling down on the running board while lifting the engine and then reassemble everything. 14 hrs and several beers later she's done.
Also installed slopping steering fix, 4th wheel, A-Arm shims, oilite bushings and starter fix since the front frame has to come off too.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Just in time for the Colorado low that's coming through. Calling for up to 35 cm of snow for parts of Northern Ontario.