Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement (3 cylinder engine 05-07)

[MEL]

forcakes@aol.com
Thanks

 

[MEL]

send me an email and I'll give you my number so you can call.

grizztracks@gmail.com

upon further investigation I looked down the front of the engine and saw it was the guide laying up against the hole. I couldn't get good enough pressure with the new tensioner to move it so I put the old extended tensioner back in and was able to move the guide far enough to bolt in the new tensioner. Checked timing 2 times with ties and another 3 without and timing is good. Just got to put her back together. after I fix the rear

send me an email and I'll give you my number so you can call.

grizztracks@gmail.com

mounting bolt sleeve I bent went I pryed the engine but thanks for all your help I don't think many of us could or would have done this without your help.

 

[Jasonmyers72]

what kind of noise do I listen for?

The best way to check the tensioner is with an automotive stethoscope. Their not expensive and can be purchased at most automotive parts store. You can easily see the tensioner on the back of the engine behind the brake rotor. Place the probe on the block near the base of the tensioner and with the engine just above idle listen for an erratic tap that's not in sync with the engine RPM's.

 

[Carbb1]

First off you guys are AWESOME. The knowledge, help, pictures and details. you make it easy. So last summer I replaced the starter, all the gears. Set the TDC to the marks and checked the timing with the cam gears. It started and ran great. I ran it all winter long. Yesterday I went to start it one last time before I put it in storage for the summer. I 'm getting that grinding knocking noise again and it wont run. just like before I replaced everything. I did a quick check on the timing and found that the timing marks on the cam gears are like 180 degrees off from the TDC marks on the crank gear. Its weird because it ran all winter and now a month or so later I try to start it and it starts making those noises again. So I thinking I'm going to pull the motor and investigate a little more. So what do you think could make the motor go 180 degrees out? Timing chain? Or something more internal? crank bearings or something?

 

[rogerg]

First, I want to say this is just about the best thread I have read through in any on-line forum. The main write-up by grizztracks is excellent, and subsequent comments by him and others have been exceptional. My tear-down adventure with my '05 Vector started with billowing white exhaust emissions. Researching how to remove/replace the cylinder head led me to this thread; so much of it is absolutely relevant. My sled has the old orange-dot tensioner, a blue-dot is ready to go in. The whole project is now on hold while I recover from rotator-cuff surgery. A couple of comments below from my own experience so far.
I bought a cheap 13mm 1/4-drive deep socket to make the engine spacer removal tool. A Dremel cut-off wheel and a file worked for me. I considered using a shallow socket, but the deep one allows you to leave the long engine-mount bolt almost completely inserted while backing the spacer out. This may or may not be important, but seemed like a good thing.
When moving the engine up and forward, the cooling system housing on the upper-left side of the engine made contact with the upper chassis member. That might be all you need to get to the cam-chain adjuster, but I freed-up the rear end of the upper chassis member and loosened the front to give the engine a bit more movement.

 

[MEL]

After putting thing back together everything was going good then the stator went out. I knew of the issues these were having and I opt not to replace it. I would recommend doing it at the same time as the tensioner. digging in again now!