Camoplast Maverick

[mateo]

Thanks for the feedback I'm starting to understand what's going on. Like a mountain bike, 18 tooth front (smaller for better climbing) and 9 tooth back/drive also for better climbing.

I guess it's a sacrifice with top speed. But do people actually use the top speed of these machines when hill climbing?
I know on my doo, I am/or think I am rarely going into a hill at top speed (top speed on flat that is) Because it's always a bit up, and dont always have the longest run up.
So my riding style I must dictate that I can go with an 18 tooth top gear, and since Im getting the powerclaw with 2.25" lugs, the 8 tooth drive won't be too bad wrt clearance.
Too bad the avid website doesnt give dims on the drivers so I can compare to stock.

Hmm, more performance gained with clutching rather than changing the top gear... I had no idea. Guess I'll keep reading up on clutching.
Did you change your clutch setup yet or no?

 

[bholmlate]

Mateo
with the drivers its more about reducing friction and drag of the track. Tracks have reinforcing running through them and it take more horsepower to bend them around a smaller radius. By using the larger diameter driver your reducing the power it takes to wrap the track around them. The less drag the more usable horsepower. That is the reason people use larger rear wheels as well. they reduce drag on the spinning track. I believe that Robby H. at Avid explains it really well on his web site Go to Avid-products web site and click on snowmobile parts. the idea of running the track looser is the same principle idea. Lower gearing is essentially lowering the drag on the engine freeing up horsepower. However, as you stated the top speed of the sled it reduces a little.

Everything seems to be a trade off. I dont think top speed on a mountain sled is all that important as speed goes. I look at it like the track is a big shovel. its not that simple of course. the faster you are shoveling snow out the back of the sled the more you are moving the sled forward hopefully. Not always the case but hopefully you get the idea. A lot of it comes down to what works for you personally and best with your riding style.

About gearing, dont get me wrong I wasnt saying that you can get more preformance with just clutching then you can by lowering the gearing. the point i was trying to make was that there is more preformance to be gained with modifying the stock clutching a little regardless of what gearing you are running. The stock clutching is good but the aftermarket people have figured out ways to improve on the stock setup and are getting better preformance out of them. That is what i was trying to convey.

 

[ruffryder]

as to gearing and top end, it is a waste. Your track speed in a climb will be in the 40 - 50 mph range, assuming no boost. If you are gearing for 100 mph, you are leaving a lot of gearing on the table.

IMO, I try and gear as low as possible..

 

[pro116]

Here's the dimension's your looking for
http://fourstrokesolutionsllc.webs.com/ ... edtech.htm