I weigh about 255 dressed out and the center studs are hitting the tunnel (big bumps) with the electric shock set as stiff as it can go. I know there is a heavy duty spring that can be swapped out, but I was just wondering if there are any other adjustments I can make first. :exc:
lornoh
Veteran
Increase the pre load on the spring to stiffin the ride. Should look into the heavy spring. I did and have not had a problem since.
TBay Sledhead
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U can also move the clip on the bottom of the shock which will change the range of shock preload. There are 3 settings for this clip, the bottom one is stock. The spring has to be compressed to change this setting.
If u r bottoming out on the long sweeping dips (G bumps)I would suggest a revalve and that would cure u're problems.
If u r bottoming out on the long sweeping dips (G bumps)I would suggest a revalve and that would cure u're problems.
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brad14880
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I did that adjustment...
brad14880
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I did that adjustment...
Get your shock a heavier spring and a revalve. I am 210 lb fully dressed, and had same issue. It just bottomed out too easy. Sent my shock to Bruce at Pioneer, and never looked back. Huge difference. Rides great, and never bottoms out

CaptCaper
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I'm close to 300lbs fully dressed on my Attak. I had Pioneer Perormance do a big boy and revalve 4 years ago. It work better but it didn't get perfect until I moved the cam at the top of the spring with a screw driver and hammer to the highest notch to get the #*$&@ end up and more tension on the spring that made is the "cat's meow".. Matter of fact I picked up a guy on the trail who needed a ride to his stuck sled and it handled both of us fine. No more bottoming for me.
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Your Attak GT came from the factory with a spring calibrated to 6.1 kg/mm.
If you find that you are routinely have the ECS shock set to full hard on your gauge pod, have your sit-in or sage set according to specs and still have bottoming. You will benefit from having your shock revalved and re-sprung with a high spring rate as well.
Some of the available Ohlins accessory springs with rates higher than what you have now are attached in the chart below. Pioneer performance provides great service in this area.
If you find that you are routinely have the ECS shock set to full hard on your gauge pod, have your sit-in or sage set according to specs and still have bottoming. You will benefit from having your shock revalved and re-sprung with a high spring rate as well.
Some of the available Ohlins accessory springs with rates higher than what you have now are attached in the chart below. Pioneer performance provides great service in this area.

Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The OP has an Attak GT with the Ohlins 46mm ECS not the regular mono shock absorber found on standard Attak.
TBay Sledhead said:U can also move the clip on the bottom of the shock which will change the range of shock preload. There are 3 settings for this clip, the bottom one is stock. The spring has to be compressed to change this setting.
If u r bottoming out on the long sweeping dips (G bumps)I would suggest a revalve and that would cure u're problems.
NY AttakGT
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I beleieve the original poster has an Attak GT, which means an Ohlins EC shock. If shock has never been revalved, it needs it to accomodate that rider weight. Same things goes for adding a heavier spring, it helps ALOT. As far as any other adjustments, you can just make sure your spring on your Ohlins is maxed out as far as pre-load.
There should be no more than 40-45mm difference spring length with shock fully extended (track off ground hanging and measure spring length) and you sitting on the sled fully geared (with sled back on ground), so it will see the same weight as when you're riding. Anything less than a 40mm difference would mean ylou have too much pre-load and could experiend coil-bind at the spring.
I have an '07 Attak GT and I did both the revalve and the big boy spring (6.5kg) but still was not good enough for my riding style (and weighing 220lbs w/ gear) so I am trying Hygear's dual rate spring on my Ohlins this season.
There should be no more than 40-45mm difference spring length with shock fully extended (track off ground hanging and measure spring length) and you sitting on the sled fully geared (with sled back on ground), so it will see the same weight as when you're riding. Anything less than a 40mm difference would mean ylou have too much pre-load and could experiend coil-bind at the spring.
I have an '07 Attak GT and I did both the revalve and the big boy spring (6.5kg) but still was not good enough for my riding style (and weighing 220lbs w/ gear) so I am trying Hygear's dual rate spring on my Ohlins this season.
brad14880
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What do the oft steering blocks do for you?
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
brad14880 said:What do the oft steering blocks do for you?
Search the board. They are a great add-on To remove steering slop.
http://ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=73 ... t+steering
http://oftracing.com/OnlineStore/index. ... ucts_id=93
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thumbdrive is a better throttle flipper.
My detailed install with photos is midway through the 2nd page of this thread: http://ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=11 ... c&start=15
My detailed install with photos is midway through the 2nd page of this thread: http://ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=11 ... c&start=15
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