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Carb experts please give me your oppinion please.

chrishall

Pro
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
190
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
There is a product out there called the Flow Commander.

In it's webpage it advertises,
"If the Flo-commander system is installed set at it’s mid range setting it will retain the basic fuel mixture ratio you already have, but now synchronizing the carbs, like they never could be before this device existed."
Does this make sense?

They also say,
"The Flo-Commander ties/blends each of the carburetor's fuel to air mixtures to one, Thus eliminating the results of uneven air pressures around the carb air jets causing the multiple fuel/air mixtures of the diff. carbs to thus be much better synchronized through-out the entire RPM range (approx. 3000 to red-line or 1/16 - 1/8 throttle position to W.O.T.) instead of just at idle."
Does this also make sense?

Is it better to sync your carbs with this devise and have them Synced all the way or is it better to sync them at Idel?

Cheers,
Chris

If your interested, here is their link.
http://www.flo-commander.com/
 

You must sync your carbs at idle to get proper idle and throttle response. As far as that kit goes, I have not tried one. There is one guy on here that swears by it. I have never seen or heard of any one using this system other than one guy on here (I do not remmember who he is).
 
I've seen them on alot of Motorcycles. They work well on bikes, but I never tryed them on the Sled.
 
Oak Hill, I have one on my sled, but I can only tell you how it feels by my gut which really doesn't mean much. When I installed it, I also installed the Heel Clickers II clutch kit. The 2 mods together made, what I can only say as a gut feeling, a big difference. Now I am wondering if the ECP kit along with my other mods would be good and if I would still need to Sync the carbs or not.

Cheers,
Chris
 
you will still have to sync your carbs at idle with a guage or manometer. this adjustment physically moves the butterflys in each carb so that all carbs pull the same vacuum. its my understanding that the flo commanders link common carb circuts together to one common point, resulting in a smoother or more balanced transition as the throttle is opened, from one circut to the next. if this is not correct, then a real carb expert will correct me, and we'll all learn something today.
 
grader said:
you will still have to sync your carbs at idle with a guage or manometer. this adjustment physically moves the butterflys in each carb so that all carbs pull the same vacuum. its my understanding that the flo commanders link common carb circuts together to one common point, resulting in a smoother or more balanced transition as the throttle is opened, from one circut to the next. if this is not correct, then a real carb expert will correct me, and we'll all learn something today.

Thats the best proceedure. I've installed a similar set up on by bike and it works well. Crisper throttle responce and better midrange especially with a 4 carb set up. ;)! No turbo on the bike. The wife put her foot down on that project. :o|
 
grader is right... you still need to ZERO your carbs at idle. The problem arise as you crack the trottle. On my Genesis 120, i have yet found a way to get them to open together. You can see this with a differential guage connected between two carbs. On my machine, one definitely opens noticebly before the 2 others. I was thinking of sticktion but after a good clean & lube job i got about the same readings. Will be exchanging two springs this week-end and redo a reading. Since the pressure difference is only momentary i cannot conclude it is caused by a cylinder compression difference.

As for the flow commander, i have not seen one but what's on their web site and may have some litttle difficulties already. It taps on the air supply of the pilot & main circuit and route this into a probably common chamber in where a variable restriction to the air box will be the supply in a more or less dead zone. (read it as away from the air velocity) The previous is just by supposition, i have not touched one yet; but if this is the case then the only way it goes, is leaning the circuit. So i suspect that if you want to go up & down with this kit you must go up couple of clicks on the pilot & main jets. Since you loose the velocity effect on the air supply it seems to me that you also change the calibration curve again. Since we are dealing with machines that run very high duty cycle; not like motorcycle, i would not try this on my machine without a lamda sensor.
 


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