carbide length effecting traction

thetruck454

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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In the quest to make my sled corner better last season I went with hygear shocks/ TR springs and C&A xtx skis with 8" Tripple points.

The mods did their job, but I was having traction issues in all but the hardest snow. This year I''m switching to a 144 cobra track to gain more soft snow traction and less lateral bite. (side rant, I hate how understeer is considered safer and is inherent to all manufactures setups)

My questions is could I have made the front end bite too hard for not having studs? The length of the carbide shouldn't effect traction, just steering effort (which with the xtx skis and 8" Tripple points make the trails one hell of a shoulder workout) in the corners right? Maybe after the cobra track I can play with the suspension more to get a better balance. I'm hoping I can take weight off the front because the cobra will let the back end rotate around the corners better.
 
Your set up is exactly what I run on my sleds, with the exception that I have the Razor skis instead, and I have no issues. Just play with your transfer settings to get it where you like it. Trick is, you're usually off the gas and on the brake when cornering, so keeping the weight on the track is difficult without it wanting to come around.
I have this on both my XTX, and my Apex (with an XTX skid) and I wouldn't change a thing!
 
thetruck454 said:
In the quest to make my sled corner better last season I went with hygear shocks/ TR springs and C&A xtx skis with 8" Tripple points.

The mods did their job, but I was having traction issues in all but the hardest snow. This year I''m switching to a 144 cobra track to gain more soft snow traction and less lateral bite. (side rant, I hate how understeer is considered safer and is inherent to all manufactures setups)

My questions is could I have made the front end bite too hard for not having studs? The length of the carbide shouldn't effect traction, just steering effort (which with the xtx skis and 8" Tripple points make the trails one hell of a shoulder workout) in the corners right? Maybe after the cobra track I can play with the suspension more to get a better balance. I'm hoping I can take weight off the front because the cobra will let the back end rotate around the corners better.

The Cobra track will not let it rotate any better. 1" hacksaw will, but you will then suffer in soft snow as you did with the ripsaw.
 
I thought my sled rotated better when I stretched it and put a 136 cobra on. Actually, I know it rotated easier, it was very noticeable when braking really hard into a corner.
 
I run the single 4" carbide on my powerderhounds and no studs with the stock track last winter and Steering effort was relatively light compared to stock. I didn't really have traction issues other than having fun hanging the tail out if i wanted to. Unless you ride on the lakes 95% of the time i have never found a reason to stud a snowmobile. Its not an icemobile but you just have to pay attention if you encounter some ice that all using your head now and again.
 
Zakre said:
Unless you ride on the lakes 95% of the time i have never found a reason to stud a snowmobile. Its not an icemobile but you just have to pay attention if you encounter some ice that all using your head now and again.

I agree 100%. After riding with studs, I will never stud my track
 


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