carbide length

[myrodman]

I have Yamaha tuner skis on my 06 Attak and have always run 6 inch on the inside and outside but I'm getting older and its a little hard to turn on groomed trails. If there is 4 inches of powder its fine. I have checked to make sure nothing is binding or froze up. What carbide lengths are people running out there or is there something else I can do? Thanks

 

[Macheater]

There are actually 2 things you can do.

The first is support the front of the sled so that the skis are off the ground. The sled obviously needs to be stable. Turn your handlebars lock to lock to make sure they turn easily and freely. The reason being is that the stock plastic bushing along with the urethane bushing of the side steering arm get dry of lubricant. When they do, the bars get VERY hard to turn. You don't notice this right away because it happens slowly over time. The first time it becomes obvious is when its hard to turn and ya don't want to ride it anymore, because you get tired and your shoulders ache. The bearings may even squeak as you turn the bars. If you find the bars hard to turn, its time for some steering component inspection.

The second thing you can do if you don't mind spending some money to achieve your goals is ditch the tuner skis, put on some standard Yammi single keel ski's (or even better get some Doo pilot skis) and go with snowtrackers. The difference in steering effort is incredible. And the snowtrackers do not dart either.

There ya have it.

 

[Snorunner]

Also you can put some thin grease in your spindles. Just to be politically correct. John Deere cornhead grease is 0 weight viscosity. It's available at any johndeere dealer and is not expensive. My 2001 Cat was hard to turn after I put C&A pro xtx crossover skis on it. I was testing in wet sloppy snow. I pushed out the nlgi 2 viscosity grease with the nlgi 0 John Deere grease. And it made a big difference. I am no expert on Yamaha 4 strokes. This is my 3rd year owning my first one. So others on here have more experience. Just giving you options.

 

[20/80]

I have Yamaha tuner skis on my 06 Attak and have always run 6 inch on the inside and outside but I'm getting older and its a little hard to turn on groomed trails. If there is 4 inches of powder its fine. I have checked to make sure nothing is binding or froze up. What carbide lengths are people running out there or is there something else I can do? Thanks

Well I know your Attack is abit heavier than the Phazer XTX I had but I had the 150mm tuners on my Phazer XTX and was running 2 inch carbide on the inside runners and hard bar only on the outside runners and it handled and steered great as far as tuners goes with this carbide set up, I think a lot of the problems with the tuners is we put on to much of a aggressive carbide set up and there is no need to, this ski is made to address darting that plagued Yamaha sleds and alone can be aggressive, as far as your Attack and tuners go.. try your 6 inch carbide on the inside runners and hard bar with no carbide on the outside runners, you may have to go with 4 inch carbides on the inside, this will I believe fix your hard steering and you will be surprised how well it handles and steers with this set up. hope this helps

 

[yamahinn03]

Somthing tells me its not the skis. Im guessing its the steering bushings.

 

[biffdotorg]

With all this in mind too, the carbide up front, or bite needs to match the amount of traction you have out back. So steering effort and front end bite are related, but you still need to balance it with the bite in the rear or you will push up front, or get loose in the rear.

If that Attak is studded out back, you still need plenty of carbide up front. If not, you may be able to drop some carbide. Otherwise, is sounds appropriate for an aggressive track. More front spring pressure or loosening the limiter strap would lessen ski pressure. That makes it easier to turn the skis, but limits the amount of bite.

Only you can be honest with the type of riding you do, and know which is more important. I personally am on an EPS sled, so I put as much pressure up front until the track gets squirrely, then back it off. At this time, I am going to be playing with my front shock springs, as my A-arms just dropped below parallel.

Good luck!

 

[myrodman]

There are actually 2 things you can do.

The first is support the front of the sled so that the skis are off the ground. The sled obviously needs to be stable. Turn your handlebars lock to lock to make sure they turn easily and freely. The reason being is that the stock plastic bushing along with the urethane bushing of the side steering arm get dry of lubricant. When they do, the bars get VERY hard to turn. You don't notice this right away because it happens slowly over time. The first time it becomes obvious is when its hard to turn and ya don't want to ride it anymore, because you get tired and your shoulders ache. The bearings may even squeak as you turn the bars. If you find the bars hard to turn, its time for some steering component inspection.

The second thing you can do if you don't mind spending some money to achieve your goals is ditch the tuner skis, put on some standard Yammi single keel ski's (or even better get some Doo pilot skis) and go with snowtrackers. The difference in steering effort is incredible. And the snowtrackers do not dart either.

There ya have it.

Thanks Guys Checked everything out and all was free with no binding reinstalled Yamaha skis and order snowtrackers Thanks again