• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

CARILLA RODS


I know above the 49th, they are listed in the Wiesco catalog. Retail was around $1400 cdn, that's #$%&* . Dealer cost was $1200 cdn. Don't know anymore than that.
 
Evey case and crank are different. You must measure or plastic gage everything when you install them. There isn't a specific bearing you use with the Carrillo rods
 
WEB LINK

http://www.carrilloind.com/story.html

BEARING TECH LINK

http://www.carrilloind.com/tech_archives3.html

BEARING CLEARANCES

Bearing clearances are dictated primarily by the bearing, not by the housing bore of the connecting rods. The connecting rod bore determines crush. Bearing clearances vary as to the application, diameter of the journal and bearing design. An approximate factor would be .001" per 1.000" diameter of crankshaft pin measured at the crown of the bearing surface. Wrist pin to bushing clearance is variable per diameter as well.

The following is a reference scale:

WRIST PIN DIAMETER CLEARANCE -------MAXIMUM CLEARANCE
.500 TO 0.750" ----------------------------------.0010" .0016"
.751 TO 1.094" ----------------------------------.0012" .0020"

PRIOR TO DISASSEMBLY OF THE CONNECTING RODS, NUMBER THE CONNECTING ROD AND MATCHING CAP. DO NOT USE METAL STAMP!

DO NOT MAGNAFLUX CARRILLO CONNECTING RODS WITH BOLTS INSTALLED.
 
This seems like a huge project for me.Do I really need these rods for my turbo.I have wiesco pistons and plan on running up to 20 to 24 lbs of boost. Has any one run a 28 at that boost with stock rods. Hammer, you sound like you know what your talking about, any comments will help.
 
I’m actually brand new to the 4-Strokes, this Apex will be my first… I’m asking myself the same questions, doing the research, and learning as I go here… I really couldn’t give you any advice or first hand experience with these boosted sleds yet…
 
Ask CM what he thinks of stock rods, he has 10,000kms on stock rods, boost vary from 7 to 20 psi. I rode most of the winter at 15lbs, rode a couple of buddies at 17 to 18lbs. I have no idea what you are going to do with 28, are you serious. Carry sand bags of the front skies to keep it down?
 
If your going to run any big amount of boost you are already putting in pistons so the labor to put in the rods at that point is very minimal cause the motor is already apart the question is why won't you put in rods unless it's a money thing it is cheap insurance at that point compared to taking a chance and having a problem and spending the money to get a new motor. Don't be peeny wise and dollar foolish.
 
if your going to run 20 plus pounds you need the rods.

occasional running at 20 and anything under your fine with the stock rods. If your looking the lower the compression and you don't want to get crazy just pull the head and use a thicker head gasket
 
if the egine is apart, it would be foolish not to install the rods, why risk the engine over the cost of the rods, when a rod goes, everything including the turbo is junk. o-ringing the cylinders causes distortion, it is at best a bandade, and should only be used when there is no other alternative. seeping of coolant and oil is often seen when this mod is done as well. whats happening on the rx-1 is that your lifting the head under extreme boost, and causing gasket failure due to loss of clamping load. i have been down this road and have come up with a solution. after thourghly testing this set-up on my new 500+ hp rx-1 race turbo, i am now ready to release it. i had a custom oversize stud made specially for this project. we must machine the block and head to accept the studs, and it comes with a new head gasket. you will not lift the head when this mod is done. durability is excellent. complete kit with machining is 600.00 us.
 
I ran 18-20lbs with stock motor last year no problems, but I have put rods and pistons in for this season, I think the rods would hold up its the rod bolts that seem to be the weak link and I looked and could not find anyone thaty makes a heavey duty rod bolt for the stock rods, I know of a few motors rx1,s and vectors that have lost a rod but it was due to the nuts backing off of the rod bolt which may be due to the rod bolt stretching or improper torking during assembly not sure which, so I would suggest rods to be safe, even if you are not running big boost I would pull the motor and put new rod bolts in and tork properly to be sure, I know of one vector that never went over 12lbs it had about 400 miles on it and lost a rod due to the nut backing off, I put new rod bolts in mine last year just to be safe, and I did notice a little leakage on the head gasket when I took it apart this summer so I would agree with jeff on the heavy duty studs as well. hope that helps.
 


Back
Top