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Chain Case Upgrade to 2017 or newer -- warning

I assume you are talking about Cat's from '12 & '13 or maybe another Yamaha chassis because I don't think the Viper in the pro cross chassis came out until '14 right?
 

Mills said:
I assume you are talking about Cat's from '12 & '13 or maybe another Yamaha chassis because I don't think the Viper in the pro cross chassis came out until '14 right?
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Correct. Here is the deal. 1702-454 Cat # for a 2019 ZR7000 still uses screws. Same as my 14. That’s what I ordered. No Wobble bearing. Complete with bearings. Nothing needed as far as I can see.Here
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Holy crap I have been calling them bolts this whole time and they are screws. Geez I need a beer
 
Mills said:
Holy crap I have been calling them bolts this whole time and they are screws. Geez I need a beer
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What are you talking about? You said they needed self tapping screws like hold the oil tank on. Maybe the one you got does but the one I got does not. Uses same bolts or screws or whatever you want to call them as my 14 original ones.
 
Sorry for the confusion guys. Yes the 2014 and 2017 chain case both need a self-tapping SCREW with a torx's head on it. My 2014 case had the M6 x 1.0 x 20 screw and that is what is shown in the Track Drive 2 schematic I find at Babbitts Online and the Yamaha microfiche as well. The 2017 case I got from Barn of Parts takes M6 x 2.0 x 24 self tapping screws which is Item #38 in the Track Drive 2 schematic. These screws are the same as those that secure the oil tank to the chain case from 2014 on.
 
It ended up that I needed the M6 self tapping screws (6 of them) for mounting the inner case to the chassis. The screws from my 2014 that secure the cover to the inner case worked. I did add a 0.030" brass shim/ washer to the back side of the upper gear to take out the play it had. Adding the shim/ washer in that location pushed it toward the gear that shifts it between forward and reverse. Seems to shift better than it did before. Wow my sled is WAY quieter and has no more vibration as compared to the last 1000 miles with the bad wobble bearing.
 
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Mills said:
It ended up that I needed the M6 self tapping screws (6 of them) for mounting the inner case to the chassis. The screws from my 2014 that secure the cover to the inner case worked. I did and a 0.030" brass shim/ washer to the back side of the upper gear to take out the play it had. Adding the shim/ washer in that location pushed toward the gear that shifts it between forward and reverse. Seems to shift better than it did before. Wow my sled is WAY quieter and has no more vibration as compared to the last 1000 miles with the bad wobble jack shaft bearing.
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I think every effort needs to be taken to get shaft parallel and straight side to side even if just by feel.
 
I left the track out and installed the jack shaft and drive shaft with all of the mounts for both shafts loose on either side. I then measured from the shaft to the chassis in several spots to make sure they were both square to the chassis which makes them as parallel to one another as you can get them. I then tightened all the bolts for all the mounts and used a scratch al to scribe around each mount. Now I know exactly where everything goes so that it is all square and true for final assembly.
 
As far as I can tell, it isn't really necessary to buy the inner case to upgrade to the 17+ jackshaft. You just need a 4mm spacer between the updated bearing style & the original c-clip groove in the inner chain case half.
 
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