chaincase/bearing replacement?

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shawnj

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I did do a search but come up empty on this but Im sure I've seen it before. I am going to attempt the exhaust gaskets on our Apex and thought since I was going through all this why not do chaincase and bearings as they not been done ever either. Is there a step by step for chaincase and bearing and driveshaft removal?? Thanks.
 
Order an all balls bearing kit your can order them through hiperf.com They come with all the bearings and seals for the chaincase, jackshaft, and driveshaft.
 
bullet Remove skid frame (Suspension) See tech page for Installation of Suspension.
bullet Remove Belt cover
bullet Remove the 2 set screws that hold the bearing on the drive axel from underneath the sled. These set screws are on the bearing color on the speedo side inside the tunnel. You may have to roll the axle to get the alignment you need.
bullet Remove speedo cable from the axel under the secondary near bottom of the belly pan. Then remove 3 nuts that hold speedo cable cover over non drive side of axel. Careful to pull speedo key (Square key about 1 1/2 long) remove key from axel after cover is pulled.
bullet Then go to the chain case side. Remove exhaust , might have to remove battery if you have electric start.
bullet Remove 12 mm drain plug from back side of chain case ( reach underneath in the tunnel and you should feel the bolt head), drain case oil. Remove chain case cover bolts. Then pull on cover very carefully. Make sure you have a drain pan under the sled, there will be some oil that will come out. If you have reverse you have to be careful of the shift linkage and how it come off as you pull the chain case cover.
bullet Make sure as you remove , linkage, gears, spacers, nuts, chain, chain tensioner and so on, that you lay them out exactly as you have removed them. (Note: Crack the chain tensioner jamb nut loose and screw it out all the way leaving jamb nut on. Also the tensioner when reinstalled will need to be finger tight before locking jamb nut.)
bullet Remove the top bolt that holds the top gear to the brake drive axel and remove the bottom bolt that holds the bottom gear to the bottom drive axel. If need be use the brake to hold the axel steady while you brake the bolts loose.
bullet Remove the brake caliper and parking brake cable and flip it out of the way. The brake line can stay on the main brake.
bullet Now remove the main bolts that hold the chain case to the tunnel. Then pull back on the chain case slowly and evenly, it will be very snug. Be careful and watch for the key that holds the brake disc to the shaft as you pull the chain case back. Be sure all nuts, gears , chain, chain tensioner, spacers.... ect are removed prior to pulling chain case back.
bullet After chain case is pull bake and or removed then go back to the speedo side and pull the drive axel thru the speedo cover hole and the 2 set screws that hold the bearing on the drive axel should have been removed prior. Then pull bearing, if tight use a 3 jaw puller to assist you.
bullet After bearing is out you should be able to push the drive axel all the way to the speedo side and tilt the shaft down and out. Now your track should be out. To install use the same directions and work backwards.

Tip: When removing the chain case spray behind the chain case on the Jackshaft around the keyway with WD-40 or some other penetrating oil. The key rusts into the keyway and sort of locks it on, this may help.

Note: If you have adjustable rods you can crank them up to help with clearance. Also using a ratchet strap or come-along off ceiling will help support rear of sled while removing track and suspension. A few more tools nice to have is a shop creeper and hydraulic jack to help support suspension as your dropping it from the sled.

Click on the Images to Enlarge

Image1 : Chain case w/reverse, Image 2: Standard chain case, Image 3 : Track Drive shaft , Image 4: Speedo

Go to http://www.hlsm.com/ for more info on Yamaha Parts

chaincase1.jpg (106549 bytes)chaincase2.jpg (96141 bytes)
 
dremmick said:
Order an all balls bearing kit your can order them through hiperf.com They come with all the bearings and seals for the chaincase, jackshaft, and driveshaft.
Click to expand...

X2, the All Balls kits are really nice. Mine came with all the necessary parts and seals at a fraction of the dealer costs. You may want to do the jack shaft bearing as well. It really is not too bad of a job. I replace all of mine on my 6,000 mile nytro this fall and all were in really good condition.
 
The kits are nice as they come with the seals but I have not had the best of luck then I used them in the past.

How many KM's on your sled?
 
Personally, I wouldn't use All Balls bearings in anything, especially in critical areas!

I have heard nothing but bad reviews using them so spend the little extra and purchase the OEM Yamaha bearings as they are a quality part and will last a good long while if taken care of.

Do a Google search and I am sure you will find lots of info about them from various sled/atv/motorcycle forums and the like.(JMO)
 
ok thanks for the info. will take the advice and get oem bearings. was going to anyways for in that location. awsome pics and description too for the teardown, thanks .
 
This makes me nervous since I just replaced my bearings with the all balls kit :(
 
All Balls just doesn't have the fit & finish like I'm use to....o wait that's a different post ...LMAO........

Really all balls have everything you need in there kit but I would change them every two years..they just don't hold up like the oem do..... :sled1:
 
My rule-of-thumb is OEM bearings in chaincase, jackshaft, and axle. Cheap bearings in the skid. Reason being you can check the skid bearings and replace them easily.

09nytro said:
All Balls just doesn't have the fit & finish like I'm use to....o wait that's a different post ...
Click to expand...

Oh ya and 09nytro that's funny.
 
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