rhoag
Expert
My GT is completely stock and not studded. I ride groomed trails in Wisconsin and the UP. I ride hard and fast, and get alittle air every now and then, but don't seek jumps. My track is not studded. I was running full synthetic 75 weight gear oil, low foaming with a temp range of -75 to +200 degrees. The same oil I use in a 8 billion dollar radar gear box.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
RHOAG... while i feel your pain over not being able to ride i will say this..
YOUR NOT ALONE... just look on the Doo website and see how many guys have there sleds in the shop with no idea when parts will arive..
Atleast your hands will not get cold.. due to the non working handwarmers..LOL
Just trying to chear ya up.. I know it sucks..
YOUR NOT ALONE... just look on the Doo website and see how many guys have there sleds in the shop with no idea when parts will arive..
Atleast your hands will not get cold.. due to the non working handwarmers..LOL
Just trying to chear ya up.. I know it sucks..
Traildemon
Pro
chaincase
This chaincase problem sounds very like my experience with my RX -1 . The tensioner 'finger" broke (it is hollow) but I think it was a result of the lube leaking out . I had just changed it over to MOBIL 1 . Not sure if I maybe didn't get the gasket in properly or it was the synthetic oil getting past the seal. I repaired it myself by "gluing" the finger back with one of those liquid metal products & also threading the hollow of the finger & installing a bolt from the back side. 1,500 miles later, no problems
This chaincase problem sounds very like my experience with my RX -1 . The tensioner 'finger" broke (it is hollow) but I think it was a result of the lube leaking out . I had just changed it over to MOBIL 1 . Not sure if I maybe didn't get the gasket in properly or it was the synthetic oil getting past the seal. I repaired it myself by "gluing" the finger back with one of those liquid metal products & also threading the hollow of the finger & installing a bolt from the back side. 1,500 miles later, no problems

170plus
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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the chain tensioner actually takes the biggest hits when the brake is applied,when under hard acceleration the chain is tight on the opposite side of the gears as the tensioner,the slack is on the tensioner side under acceleration,the slack goes to the back side under braking and chain is tight against the tensioner,but it doesnt really matter either way ,it shouldnt be breaking the pin off so whats gonna be the fix,maybe just a few bad castings and no other problems around,time will tell
FLYBOY
Extreme
Hi Guys
Replaced the chaincase housing which the hollow chain tensioner mount is part of.
Back on the snow for now--!!
How many other guys experiencing this HOLLOW MOUNT PIN FAILURE??
I think this needs a redesign-- it is not strong enough for the torque.
In the case of the sled with the failure, when I started this thread----TRAIL RIDING ONLY-- NO JUMPS-- NO STUDS-- NEVER RODE HARD AND PUT AWAY WET---- EVERYTHING TO SPEC AND SYNTHETICS LUBE AT 800KM.
AS I said earlier, the post must have been cracked where it mounts to the housing and gear lube was seeping out-- there was still plenty in the case when the failure occurred. The magnesium looks like white metal when it breaks-- you'd wonder how it could be strong enough to support the chain tensioner. If you notice any lube under your chain case you better have a look inside-- in this case the rubber seal was fine-- lube was coming out from where the chain tensioner mount pin attaches to the chain case housing.
Replaced the chaincase housing which the hollow chain tensioner mount is part of.
Back on the snow for now--!!
How many other guys experiencing this HOLLOW MOUNT PIN FAILURE??
I think this needs a redesign-- it is not strong enough for the torque.
In the case of the sled with the failure, when I started this thread----TRAIL RIDING ONLY-- NO JUMPS-- NO STUDS-- NEVER RODE HARD AND PUT AWAY WET---- EVERYTHING TO SPEC AND SYNTHETICS LUBE AT 800KM.
AS I said earlier, the post must have been cracked where it mounts to the housing and gear lube was seeping out-- there was still plenty in the case when the failure occurred. The magnesium looks like white metal when it breaks-- you'd wonder how it could be strong enough to support the chain tensioner. If you notice any lube under your chain case you better have a look inside-- in this case the rubber seal was fine-- lube was coming out from where the chain tensioner mount pin attaches to the chain case housing.
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