nospeedlimit
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I am going to go to a 23 tooth top gear. Is it a pain to remove the chain case cover with the brake assembly mounted to the cover? Any tips to simplify the process would be greatly appreciated!!!! 
BigMac
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Drain the oil first. Then brake disc (snap ring), then brake assembly, then parking brake. I found it easier to pull the reverse lever supporting bracket. The cover bolts are red-loctited in (Yammi equivalent, which is green, I think), so they come out kind of hard. Pay attention to tightening sequence and diligently torque 'em, and do use red loctite. Be careful when you pull the reverse idler - there's a little spring on it. Removing the top gear is kind of hard - it needs a 36 mm wrench and you have to keep the driven clutch/jackshaft from turning. You can get a special socket from Allen Ulmer or Mountain Performance that allows you to use a 1/2 inch drive. Without that, there's no way to re-torque that big bolt.nospeedlimit said:I am going to go to a 23 tooth top gear. Is it a pain to remove the chain case cover with the brake assembly mounted to the cover? Any tips to simplify the process would be greatly appreciated!!!!
There are some helpful step-by-step photos here on TY under "Track".
nospeedlimit
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chain case
Thanks for the help. Did you notice a justifiable difference in the 23 gear?
Thanks for the help. Did you notice a justifiable difference in the 23 gear?
BigMac
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Re: chain case
Hard to tell. That sled pulls like a mother under any circumstances. Differences in real-world performance can vary so much based on many other factors. I don't know if any seat-of-the-pants performance gains I felt were due to the lower gearing, or differences in temp, snow, traction etc. It did seem quicker, but I think it would take some kind of scientific evaluation to prove it.
Whatever, I wouldn't call it a dramatic difference. I didn't really see any distinct change in gas mileage, and the thing still readily cracks 100 mph gps. I have the suspicion that clutching changes with stock gearing might have more of a noticeable effect.
I'd be inclined to advise you to call or email Allen Ulmer and ask him his opinion, and order that 36 mm socket set while you're at it if you decide to go ahead with the gearing. Allen is a real straight-up guy and will give you good advice IMHO.
Bottom line...I don't know about the gear change. But...it only cost me about $45 and a couple hours of my time, and the switch went smoothly, so I didn't have any trouble justifying it myself. It was a lot cheaper than a clutch kit, but I suspect ultimately it wouldn't be as seat-of-the-pants effective.
nospeedlimit said:
Hard to tell. That sled pulls like a mother under any circumstances. Differences in real-world performance can vary so much based on many other factors. I don't know if any seat-of-the-pants performance gains I felt were due to the lower gearing, or differences in temp, snow, traction etc. It did seem quicker, but I think it would take some kind of scientific evaluation to prove it.
Whatever, I wouldn't call it a dramatic difference. I didn't really see any distinct change in gas mileage, and the thing still readily cracks 100 mph gps. I have the suspicion that clutching changes with stock gearing might have more of a noticeable effect.
I'd be inclined to advise you to call or email Allen Ulmer and ask him his opinion, and order that 36 mm socket set while you're at it if you decide to go ahead with the gearing. Allen is a real straight-up guy and will give you good advice IMHO.
Bottom line...I don't know about the gear change. But...it only cost me about $45 and a couple hours of my time, and the switch went smoothly, so I didn't have any trouble justifying it myself. It was a lot cheaper than a clutch kit, but I suspect ultimately it wouldn't be as seat-of-the-pants effective.
