Shivesy
Expert
I need to install my 23 tooth gear on the Apex tonight but I can't seem to get the cover off. I removed the top caliper,disc, lower emergency brake caliper, top reverse linkage, all the bolts on the outside of the cover (3-12mm & 2-14mm), the collar with the set screw behind the disc. There is a 10mm bolt in the center of the cover that I haven't taken out yet, does it need to be taken out in order to get the cover off? I don't want to pry to hard until I know I am on the right track.
Thanks in advance: Ronnie
Thanks in advance: Ronnie
Bigger Hammer
Extreme
yep, the one in the center needs to come out too, sounds like you have got everything else.
snowbeast
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Dont forget to remove any burrs left on jackshaft from the key moving in the broach slot,as this will fatch up when pulling bearing and seal over the shaft,also if you have reverse make sure you move your linkage on L.H. side of cover out of the way,as it will bind up to.
Shivesy
Expert
Thanks for the info. I finished up the install this morning at 2:00am. Took the sled out into the drive after I was done and wanted to make sure it worked before I went to bed. I put it in reverse and the beeper went off and it did go in reverse and rode for 30'. I then shifted into forward and heard a unusual slight clunk from the gear box when the clutch engaged so I held off on giving it more gas. I sat on the sled sweating for a few seconds and gave it some more gas to engage the clutch again and the Apex did shift into forward and rode for 30' until I stopped. I went back to reverse and she shifted fine and backed up 30' or so. I then put her back in forward and she shifted fine and drove for 30'. I did this back and forward motion 3 or 4 times and all seems to be fine. I don't know what the clunk was on the first shift from reverse to foward at the beginning of my test drive and hope it was OK. I took detailed pictures of the cover removeal and gear install and I will post a segment in the tech section this evening.
Thanks Bigger Hammer for the quick response last night on the center bolt, for I was in stand still mode untill I knew for sure what to do. As soon as I removed the bolt, the cover came off with ease.
Thanks Bigger Hammer for the quick response last night on the center bolt, for I was in stand still mode untill I knew for sure what to do. As soon as I removed the bolt, the cover came off with ease.

Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
The adjustment of the upper shift linkage is extremely critical. It has to be dead nuts on. I don't have the Tech Manual with me, or I would give you the exact dimensions and reference points. If you do not have the exact setting, the shifting does not happen smoothly. I'll check in tonight with the dimension. But, I'll bet someone else will provide them first!
AIRWOLF
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Adjusting Step 1 - Upper Linkage
Loosen locknuts and set the length between the locknuts to 27 mm
Tighten locknuts
Adjusting Step 2- Rear Lower Linkage
Loosen locknuts
Turn the threaded adjuster to decrease distance between locknuts
until freeplay is removed, then turn threaded adjuster back 1/4 turn.
Tighten locknuts
Loosen locknuts and set the length between the locknuts to 27 mm
Tighten locknuts
Adjusting Step 2- Rear Lower Linkage
Loosen locknuts
Turn the threaded adjuster to decrease distance between locknuts
until freeplay is removed, then turn threaded adjuster back 1/4 turn.
Tighten locknuts
170plus
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i just found another check mark on the plus side of no reverse,chaincase sure is easier to deal with when you dont have reverse,everytime i have to muscle it around i try to think of new reasons not to have reverse,thanks guys
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
I ran w/o reverse for over 24 years & I've got the bad back to prove it. Won't buy a sled w/o reverse any more. For about 10 years now, I've been adding reverse before they go on the trail. Brother used to laugh at me about that and the e-Shields. Now he is the one in for back surgery and using e-shields all the time. Amazing how one changes perspectives as you get older.


Riceburner
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Amen Brother !!!!
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