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Chaincase Gearing.....


Figure for every 1 less tooth on the top, instead add TWO teeth on the bottom. As for how many to go, that's up to you and your preferences. The limit on the bottom is 42 tooth, but if you have reverse, it requires that you turn the teeth on one of the reverse gears down a little to fit.

For every 1 tooth on top or 2 on bottom, figure about a 5% change in bottom end torque.

Once the clutches start to shift, the effect of changed gearing completely vanishes, so this is PURELY for holeshot.

Gearing down makes it easier to get moving and puts considerably less stress on the drive belt... especially in deep snow.

I went from stock 24/38 to 23/42 -- roughly 15% increase in torque, but be aware that I also went up to 144" track, AND I have my clutches set for overdrive, so might be a little much for you. Without overdrive, I wouldn't go past 24/42 or 10%, otherwise it'll overrev when going fast in a straight line.
 
LazyBastard said:
Figure for every 1 less tooth on the top, instead add TWO teeth on the bottom. As for how many to go, that's up to you and your preferences. The limit on the bottom is 42 tooth, but if you have reverse, it requires that you turn the teeth on one of the reverse gears down a little to fit.

For every 1 tooth on top or 2 on bottom, figure about a 5% change in bottom end torque.

Once the clutches start to shift, the effect of changed gearing completely vanishes, so this is PURELY for holeshot.

Gearing down makes it easier to get moving and puts considerably less stress on the drive belt... especially in deep snow.

I went from stock 24/38 to 23/42 -- roughly 15% increase in torque, but be aware that I also went up to 144" track, AND I have my clutches set for overdrive, so might be a little much for you. Without overdrive, I wouldn't go past 24/42 or 10%, otherwise it'll overrev when going fast in a straight line.
GREAT info! Thanks alot man!
 


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