peakperf
Extreme
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2003
- Messages
- 67
- Location
- Hayward Wisconsin
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1972 GP292, 1972 GP433, 1972 GP643, 2003 RX1, 2007 Phazer GT
My jackshaft bearing went out on the secondary side. Is it hard to change this or should I take it to my dealer? It's out of warranty.
Scott
Scott
DYNAREX
Expert
its a lot easier if the bearing is bad believe it or not-
if the bearing is tight you will have to pop the chaincase to force the bearing out-if its bad you can get a grip on the race and slide hammer it off
if the bearing is tight you will have to pop the chaincase to force the bearing out-if its bad you can get a grip on the race and slide hammer it off
rx1rob
Newbie
you don't hve to take the chain case off .just open up remove gears and chain.with a long bar you can tap bearing out.
snowman
Extreme
I had to weld a bolt to the outside race and use a small crowbar to pry on the welded bolt to get mine to come out 
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2003
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- Carlisle, NY .
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
It's a standard bearing, and a pretty good one at that. I wonder if it is all caused by that tapered sleeve...once things get sloppy in there, say goodbye to the bearing. I caught mine in time..no damage, and the bearing is perfect.
Focker
Pro
The bearing by the way is NOT a standard bearing, I learned that the hard way!! The bearing is also tapered along with the collar.
As for getting it out, take the chaincase apart so you can remove the shaft. Then use a long bolt or threaded rod with some large washers and rig a puller. I happened to use a Wonder Bar as the hole in it was perfect size for the bolt. If you put the bolt through the back side with some washers, then put the Wonder Bar(or a piece of steel) over the bolt on the front side. Then put some washers or spacers to take up some slack, and tighten a nut on the bolt. This will pull the bearing out pretty easily.
As for getting it out, take the chaincase apart so you can remove the shaft. Then use a long bolt or threaded rod with some large washers and rig a puller. I happened to use a Wonder Bar as the hole in it was perfect size for the bolt. If you put the bolt through the back side with some washers, then put the Wonder Bar(or a piece of steel) over the bolt on the front side. Then put some washers or spacers to take up some slack, and tighten a nut on the bolt. This will pull the bearing out pretty easily.
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2003
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- Carlisle, NY .
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
I thought someone posted the number here...I can't remember, but when it was posted, I asked the in-house suppliers where I work (the parent company that pays Brokaw's salary..hehe) (Kaman Bearing is a supplier)and they said if it's in anything, they've got it, and much cheaper to boot. You should see some of the bearings they stock..very complex, for multimillion dollar machine tools made everywhere in the world. Let me know the number..I'll have them cross reference it tomorrow.
Unless Yamaha decided to take a bearing and grind a taper on the inside, just to be funny..in which case, I'll have my toolroom grind one.
Unless Yamaha decided to take a bearing and grind a taper on the inside, just to be funny..in which case, I'll have my toolroom grind one.
Focker
Pro
I got mine for a fraction of what Yamaha charges not knowing that it is a tapered inner race. I ended up spending an hour or so grinding it down to put a taper on with a Dremel tool, seems to work ok I guess but I am definately going to get a new setup this summer.
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