Chassis Setup for Top Speed

YAttak07

Extreme
Joined
Jan 30, 2007
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Location
Barrie, ON Canada
Have done a bunch of searches and a lot or reading but could not find a summary of what has been working best. Here is what I have found but would like others ideas / opinions as well. As the lake conditions are getting ideal to do some radar runs at 2000'+

Front A-arms level or slight sag
Limiter strap pulled all way up (some have even looped it together)
Transfer rod set to "min"
Rear shock set to soft
Track properly aligned and set tight

Just trying to get best starting set up to minimize tweaks in the field.
 
How serious are you going to get or is this just a one time deal?
 
True/balance wheels and shafts, wash out all bearings and regrease with a small amount of synthetic grease, as stated above make sure every thing is aligned, a clutch set up with heavier tip weight will usually MPH best. I run the extreme snow trackers as well but even though they really don't scrub much MPH a simple straight bar with out carbide would be best. When you get burnt out from all the work like me and wan't to go faster just add a Turbo and go as fast as you wan't. LOL, otherwise judging by your mods it looks like you have the bsics. Oh 108 studs in an Attak would be on the thin side.
 
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I was going to say the same thing Kviper said also put atf in the chaincase and put a slide lube on.
 
Thanks kviper....i do have a Boss Performance clicker clutch kit with lots of weight. In fact Scott from Boss told me he has never heard of sled with my mods pull that much weight and I do enjoy making a stock setup work. I just swapped out a pre-studded 1" ice attack to the hacksaw and have noticed that I did lose a couple miles per hour with the 108 studs but you are suggesting that I may be light on studs.....did i understand you correctly?

Pro116 - thanks for the atf comment. I have always used the Amsoil synthetic chain case lube as it seems to be work well. What do you use for slide lube?
 
Yes on more stud's. I would add a few and see if you gain MPH, if you do add a few more till you don't gain any more. You don't wan't any more than you need. Forgot the chain case, thanks PRO! A couple more, don't over gear, when you buy a belt take a tape measure wrap it around the out side of the belt and buy the shortest one, you can gain a couple MPH and not have to gear for it. wash the belt in warm water and dish soap, break it in easy for 10 mi or so before a long hard pull. a couple other things I used to do but you wouldn't make to many trail mile's.
 
So, to sum up this thread

  • Front A-arms level or slight sag
  • Limiter strap pulled all way up (some have even looped it together)
  • Transfer rod set to "min"
  • Rear shock set to soft
  • Track properly aligned and set tight
  • Clean and align clutching (add some weight if you can)
  • Clean and put synthetic grease in wheel bearings
  • Shortest drive belt available
  • Slider lube (rv antifreeze and laundry detergent)
  • Proper amount of studs
  • Proper ski alignment
  • Low to mid height windscreen
  • Standard wear bars
  • ATF or synthetic chaincase lube
  • True up all shafts and wheels

Then, once this all gets too boring add a Turbo!!!

Thanks guys.
 
LOL! That should give you a few things to do before the Turbo.
 
Clutches machined and balanced think Ulmer dose some clutch work with making clutch belt ride all the way up pc ignition mod, what about air box mod exhaust or a shot of nos I read that people have put in srx shocks up front to lower front end for more topend
 
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Clutches machined and balanced think Ulmer dose some clutch work with making clutch belt ride all the way up pc ignition mod, what about air box mod exhaust or a shot of nos I read that people have put in srx shocks up front to lower front end for more topend

Thx....All great ideas but was trying to focus on making the chassis "roll" better rather than mods.
 


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