Check you limiter straps RTX

Idler wheels after riding with broken straps

I guess I should have unbolted the broken straps as soon as I noticed them...

The seals on the bearings have also "fallen off". I suspect this had nothing to do with the straps.
 

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REX,

Where did yours break? Mine broke at the top of the strap right below where the bolt goes through. From the look of the pic yours look to be the same.
 
Ported Hornet said:
REX,

Where did yours break? Mine broke at the top of the strap right below where the bolt goes through. From the look of the pic yours look to be the same.

Same place. They all seem to break there.
 
ReX said:
Ported Hornet said:
REX,

Where did yours break? Mine broke at the top of the strap right below where the bolt goes through. From the look of the pic yours look to be the same.

Same place. They all seem to break there.


Thanks, should have mine tonight. Can't wait to get it fixed and start riding.
 
ReX said:
I wonder if there isn't enough rebound damping on the center shock, causing the straps to keep "snapping" tight.

I don't think they are rubbing and wearing out (but I haven't looked at mine carefully yet).

My new ones will be in tomorrow. I'll take a better look at the old ones when I change them.

REX... you hit the nail on the head. My straps broke on my 05 Vector in the first 300 miles. Dealer covered them under warantee after which I revalved my center shock and replaced the rear (The old crappy metal bodied hydraulic as used only on the 05 Vector) to the Ohlin replacement. Problem solved and I am on my 4th season with 4k miles since the failure. Since the suspension is coupled, the rear shock rebound dampening is important, too.
 
Tonight after finishing off the exhaust donuts, I checked out the suspension and discovered that the center shock is toast.

With the skid out, if I step on the front pivot arm, compressing the center shock, and then step off, the shock snaps back to full extension with a loud bang.

If that's the way they are from Yamaha when new, no wonder the straps are breaking and we are seeing so muck kick back over bumps.

I also discovered that the center shock plays a much bigger roll than I originally thought. For smaller bumps, the center shock handles all of the damping. Due to the unique pivot mechanism moving the main shocks lower mount as the center shock compresses, the rear shock doesn't compress at all with smaller bumps.

This means that a weak center shock can produce a poorly damped ride as well as kick back and broken limiter straps.
 
I need to check that center shock. If mine is junk I guess I could get it covered under by the dealer. I just hate meshing with taking my sled to the dealer. Anybody else's front shock a POS?
 
Mine was totally shot. Once I pulled off the spring, I found I could collapse and extend it at least 2" without any resistance.

With all of the nitrogen mixed in with the oil it would have provided very little damping when riding.

It was a pain to take apart also. The way the oil side was very pressurised with nitrogen made the removal of the c-clip quite difficult (until I rigged up something to compress the shock cap).

Finally, the oil inside absolutely reeked. The smell was bad enough I almost had to get out of my garage.

The nitrogen side on the other hand was full of oil. Good thing I have new IFP seals.

I'll still get my sled back together in the reasonably near future, but without any rideable trails I've lost some of my motivation.

I'm now more certain than ever that a bad center shock will lead to broken limiter straps.
 
Well boys and girls I just went through another set in less than 1000 miles, I assume my front shock is toast. I will be phoneing Yamaha on Monday.
 
One tip on installing these limiter straps...

The ones on my 05 Vector snapped early in the first season. My dealer warranted the parts, but I installed them.

I noticed that you must align the washers properly. I know this sounds ridiculous, but those familiar with sheet metal stamping will appreciate my advice...

Whenever sheet metal is stamped (most washers are stamped) there is a sharp side and a dull side to the finished product. Be sure to align the smooth (rounded-off) side towards the rubber straps because the sharp side will dig in over time and cause a tear. I aligned my replacements this way and only torqued the nuts 1/4 turn past bottoming and I never broke straps again.

For what it's worth...
 
I only had one break after 350 miles and I got it covered under warranty. Mine broke right at the bolt hole. I hae had mine 1 hole from the bottom .How do you know if your shock is bad without taking the shock out ? Will there be oil leaking ? I think I will have a revalve done at the end of the year.
 
Mine broke at 1900 miles and I just noticed I have one coming apart at 4000 miles. They need to build beefier straps!
 
garserio said:
One tip on installing these limiter straps...

The ones on my 05 Vector snapped early in the first season. My dealer warranted the parts, but I installed them.

I noticed that you must align the washers properly. I know this sounds ridiculous, but those familiar with sheet metal stamping will appreciate my advice...

Whenever sheet metal is stamped (most washers are stamped) there is a sharp side and a dull side to the finished product. Be sure to align the smooth (rounded-off) side towards the rubber straps because the sharp side will dig in over time and cause a tear. I aligned my replacements this way and only torqued the nuts 1/4 turn past bottoming and I never broke straps again.

Good piece of info, I really think my shock is probably the kulprit in my case. Anyway I know I could get these covered under waranty at the dealer, but the cost of fuel , downtime on the machine, etc I will just fix them myself. I am going call Yamaha to log a complaint.

For what it's worth...
 
Well I called Yamaha and logged a compliant. Sure enough they have never heard of any of the problems that I mentioned, Suprising! Well I did my part, now to get my sled fixed so I can get back on the snow.
 


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