okay, I know the stock xtx clutching isnt that great without some tweaks and wet heavy snow in warm spring weather will cause mre clutch heat. My question is......with the snow being so wet heavy and deep I only see 7900-8300rpms in this stuff(lack of good backshift I know) and within a short time my clutches get very hot. The cords crapped out on 2 different belts. I checked alignment and c-t-c distance. I had to remove 1 washer from behind secondary and my c-t-c distance was a tad too close. I adjusted the mounts and now everything is well in that department. I still get lots of heat in this stuff and didnt run long enough to see if the cords would crap out of this belt as well. Is the heat likely caused because of the lack of belt grip in the low end considering the lclutches arent shifting very far out in these off trail conditions(lower track speeds) Is the xtx maybe geared a bit too high for a 144 cobra in this heavy snow?? Is loosing belt cords usually caused by bad alignment which in turn generates excess heat or will properly aligned clutches still cause the cords to go if the heat is too high?? In the offtrail its hard to tell if the secondary is as hot as the primary since there both very hott but on trail long pulls the secondary is def noticably cooler than the primary. Thanks for any info.
clutching the yammie 4 strokes is an either/or hardpack/deep snow clutching Kunundrum. In order to get good deep snow clutch performance the sled will overrev like crazy on hard pack. To clutch it to run on hardpack then it overshifts & underrevs in deep snow. Lower gearing only will help in deep snow. If you want to do both you must compromise or run 2 different set ups.
Turk said:
Kinda figured it would involove compromises..........do you think that the cords coming out of those belts is due to poor clutch calibration causing heat or the fact that I was slightly misaligned or a combination of both??
Also do you think the shockwave helix works okay for those who are somewhat satisfied with the stock clutching for trail but would like a quick adjustment for off trail days?? Thanks for your help.
I tested the shockwave 2 winters ago. Tuning with the secondary makes stuff worse unless you only need a couple of hundred rpm,s but in a 4 stroke that won,t make a lot of diff. If you need more rpm,s lighten the primary or go with a primary spring with more total force.. changing the secondary angle will slip the belt or stop the driven from upshifting naturallly....both which cause heat & belt failure.
The one thing about all this internet clutching information is everyone has access to some real good set ups that you had to pay big dollars for years ago. But ; when your sled is clutched to run at peak rpm,s on hardpack your gonna die in powder. Can we learn to compromise & settle for less????
Man; i love to gab about clutching; especially when it,s a great intelligent question & i have had a few rums!!!!!
The one thing about all this internet clutching information is everyone has access to some real good set ups that you had to pay big dollars for years ago. But ; when your sled is clutched to run at peak rpm,s on hardpack your gonna die in powder. Can we learn to compromise & settle for less????
Man; i love to gab about clutching; especially when it,s a great intelligent question & i have had a few rums!!!!!
Okay, We'll use the xtx with its stock clutching as the example. If a guy decides he is going to spend the weekend doing nothing but offtrail riding in deep snow. He removes some mass from the weights or uses more spring to get his rpms higher in the deep stuff. The stock clutch setup on this sled already get hot in these conditions so wouldnt removing mass from the weights cause more belt slip which would lead to more heat??OR are you saying that this would slow down the shift ,which would prevent the overshift that causes the belt to slip and cause this heat?? I hope that makes sense! lol Thanks again, I understand the basics of clutching but I'm really trying to get a better understanding on it.
Overshifting is like towing a big trailer with your car/truck in overdrive up a hill. If the tranny stays in OD which pulls lower rpm,s everything runs hot & cooks the internals. In a cvt the belt is the mechanical link. You gear/clutch for the load on your sled. Deep snow = more load = less aggressive clutching & lower gearing.
When the clutches encounters more load they have to compensate.
There is enuff clutching posts on this website to fill 10 novels if u look for it.
When the clutches encounters more load they have to compensate.
There is enuff clutching posts on this website to fill 10 novels if u look for it.
yup, never really looked at it like that before. I kept thinking of the heat and lack of grip and not taking the time to realize what was causing it all. Makes alot more sense to me now. Thank you for your time!
hey man...buy me a beer some time!
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
Turk said:
But don't buy him some rum or he'll wanna talk a lot
jk
camoman
Extreme
Would you still overev bad if you just adjust the gearing?
I am running into the same issue with my attak. Runs top notch on hardpack but get it in 3-4 ft of powder all day and I can blow through 2 belts. My clutches get so hot I cannot move the sled until they cool. Even when they kewl the belt seems to want to pull half way into the secondary to get it to move which is like "pulling in overdrive"..
I was thinking of adding the ulmers stage 2 kit to see if that would help?
I am running into the same issue with my attak. Runs top notch on hardpack but get it in 3-4 ft of powder all day and I can blow through 2 belts. My clutches get so hot I cannot move the sled until they cool. Even when they kewl the belt seems to want to pull half way into the secondary to get it to move which is like "pulling in overdrive"..
I was thinking of adding the ulmers stage 2 kit to see if that would help?
