Clutch Kit for Low elevation?

My Dealer in ND told me that Yamaha will pay for the parts to change elevations Clutch and Gears but they won't pay for the labour.

I am just having them install the rivets and spring and leaving the gears the way they are for now. They are ordering me the low elevation gears and chain at no cost and I will install if I feel the need.

So in the end I should only half to pay about an hour of labour for the clutch work.
 
for the mountain guys, fx ntytro service manual part number LIT-12618-02-69 it is the complete service manual. has all the specs for low and high alt complete with settings and part numbers. ski
 
Yes I am buying my sled in the states, picking it up in one week.
 
I have a copy of the elevation mod sheet. For all elevation ranges.

Let me know if I can help.
 
VMAX4,

If you don't mind what are the clutch parts needed from stock (8-10,000) to low elevation (0-2,500)

Thanks
 
Found this for us Canuks and for anyone looking for the elevation changes.
 

Attachments

copied from my post on snowest:

copied from my manual, FOR THE FX NYTRO MTX (shorty's are different)



elevation 0-2000
gearing 22-40 70 link chain, primary spring L-br-L (90501-580A2), stock weights with 17.2mm rivet outer and center, 13.3 (steel with hole) in the inner hole, secondary stock.


2000-4500
gearing same as above, same primary as above, stock weights with solid 13.3 steel rivet in all three holes, secondary stock

4000-6500
gearing 21-40 70 link chain, primary spring same as above, stock weights with 13.3 aluminum rivet with hole in the outer, center & inner 13.3 solid steel rivet, secondary stock

6000-8000
gearing 20-40 68 link chain (stock), primary spring gwg (stock), stock weights with 13.3 steel rivet with hole in outer only, center and inner empty, secondary stock

8000-10,000
all same as 6-8000 except all holes empty in stock weights. (the way it came from the factory)

rivet info

90261-06033 steel 17.2mm/ 4.5 grams

90269-06006 steel 17.2mm with hole/ 3.6 grams

90261-06034 steel 13.9mm/ 3.6 grams

90261-06019 steel 13.3mm/ 3.1 grams

90266-06002 steel 13.3mm with hole/ 2.44 grams

90261-06015 steel 10.3mm/ 2.44 grams

90261-06028 aluminum 10.3 mm/ .085 grams

90266-06001 aluminum 13.3mm with hole/ .085 grams




knock yourself out, start tuning! ski
 
my dealer put the rivets in,i left the 20-40 gearing in the sled..they just have to order the primary spring
 
i've got all my parts for both sleds, gears, chains, springs and rivets. all were in stock at the yamaha warehouse when i ordered from the dealer. dont wait, they will go on back order most likely. kinda like trying to get the new manual, good luck if you havent ordered it yet. LOL! ski
 
go200mph said:
One thing I know about the elevation changes is this. Stock setup at low elevevations = no fun. I tried it with the stock set up in the Phazer last year and then changed it as soon as I could. The Nytro won't see the snow before I make the changes this year. It is a combination of clutch and gearing changes and because of the gear change, the chain aslo has to be changed.

My Mountain Lite is still stock, the only issue I ever find with it, is while running hard pack at full throttle she rev's up too high...but I don't ride it like that often anyway, I like the low gearing and the grunt it has, it's a little jumpy down low in the trail but I love it for the powder. Am I missing out by not getting the clutching/gearing changed? Cause I'm thinking of doing the clutching on the MTX to adjust for proper RPM's but leaving the gearing alone....thoughts?
 
imo i think leave the gearing stock and get the proper weight in the primary and spring..with a 135+hp to lite of clutch weight is not good
 
Yellowknife said:
go200mph said:
One thing I know about the elevation changes is this. Stock setup at low elevevations = no fun. I tried it with the stock set up in the Phazer last year and then changed it as soon as I could. The Nytro won't see the snow before I make the changes this year. It is a combination of clutch and gearing changes and because of the gear change, the chain aslo has to be changed.

My Mountain Lite is still stock, the only issue I ever find with it, is while running hard pack at full throttle she rev's up too high...but I don't ride it like that often anyway, I like the low gearing and the grunt it has, it's a little jumpy down low in the trail but I love it for the powder. Am I missing out by not getting the clutching/gearing changed? Cause I'm thinking of doing the clutching on the MTX to adjust for proper RPM's but leaving the gearing alone....thoughts?

To be honest, when I first took the sled out after the changes I was running some short runs and did not notice any change in the bottom end. For a short time I wondered if the changes were actually made. It wasn't until I got cruising that I noticed the rpm's down a lot. and much better fuel mileage. Wouldn't have it any other way. My riding is from 0' to 1700' in elevation.
 


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