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Clutch Lube


First I am not your son. My father raised me and you calling me son is disrespecting him.

Second I am going to continue to to use silicone lube on my clutches. I don't like to have to tear mine apart every year to rebuild them.

You listen to Turk. He has a lot of good advise that I appreciate. I just happen to disagree with him on this.
 
Just use a ton of COMPRESSED AIR every so often and if its real dirty HOTTTT! soapy water, then rinse & rinse & rinse with HOTTTT! water and blow it dry with compressed air. I have 10.000kms on mine with no issues.

Any type of SILICONE based lube SHOULDN'T be used around clutches, overspray and fumes will contaminate the belt = slippage and will create HEAT & GROOVING/WARPPING sheaves.
 
This one seems to have 2 camps.

Getting crap on your belt.
That makes sense also.

It bugs me a little that some places or mfgs advertise a particular use for something and then leave it up to the consumer to trial and error.
Anything to gernerate more sales I guess...

Thanks for your opinions guys.
 
I use silicone cause it works on the clutches. My clutches tend to last 10-12K before any major re-work with it and < 5K without it. I have been doing this since 1974. I have tested w/o silicone a couple times. Once on the AC clutches and once on the Yamaha clutches.

I do not talk about this much cause some of the guys are tunnel visioned about this. But, it is up to us to help them out occasionally too. So occasionally I pipe up about this. This topic is like one of the "what is the best oil" discussions. No one ever definatively wins.

Silicone Spray turns dry. It does not build up. It does not leave a residue. It actually penetrates/lodges the pores in Bronze.You can even use it to flush dirt and dust off. You can use it to free up rollers and weights, etc. Also, it can be used on the center bushings. But you do have to be careful to keep it off the contact surfaces of the sheaves and the belt.

One thing though, ... I do clean the clutch with air before using silicone. Also, I take the clutch apart yearly for a good cleaning with brake clean, etc..

My belts tend to last one season. So I think I have been successful in keeping the spray contained from the belt.

So there you have it. To each his own. But, I use it because I firmly believe it extends the life of the clutch parts.
 
Len Todd said:
I use silicone cause it works on the clutches. My clutches tend to last 10-12K before any major re-work with it and < 5K without it. I have been doing this since 1974. I have tested w/o silicone a couple times. Once on the AC clutches and once on the Yamaha clutches.

I do not talk about this much cause some of the guys are tunnel visioned about this. But, it is up to us to help them out occasionally too. So occasionally I pipe up about this. This topic is like one of the "what is the best oil" discussions. No one ever definatively wins.

Silicone Spray turns dry. It does not build up. It does not leave a residue. It actually penetrates/lodges the pores in Bronze.You can even use it to flush dirt and dust off. You can use it to free up rollers and weights, etc. Also, it can be used on the center bushings. But you do have to be careful to keep it off the contact surfaces of the sheaves and the belt.

One thing though, ... I do clean the clutch with air before using silicone. Also, I take the clutch apart yearly for a good cleaning with brake clean, etc..

My belts tend to last one season. So I think I have been successful in keeping the spray contained from the belt.

So there you have it. To each his own. But, I use it because I firmly believe it extends the life of the clutch parts.
Click to expand...

okay I'll bite...where exactly do you apply it>?
 
you mention 10-12 k on your clutches without any major work and < 5k without it...

Im curious are both of these examples late model yamahas....
 
On my '05 RX1 I had over 12k with no lube just compressed air and hot soapy water the odd time and was still within spec and my '08 APEX treated the same way with 10k with same results...I'm just following instruction of a good old racing buddy who's my GOD when it comes to cluches, so far so good!

I use to own a CAT '02 ZR800 that I had to change BUSHINGS on weights every 2000 miles cuz of them being worn out due to excessive VIBRATION caused by the monster jugs of this motor...this sled had so much VIBRATION that after a few hours of riding your arms were NUMB up to your ELBOWS! but what a torque monster it was, I really enjoyed the POWER it had, but the PRIMARY clutch was high maintenance.
 
sj said:
you mention 10-12 k on your clutches without any major work and < 5k without it...

Im curious are both of these examples late model yamahas....
Click to expand...

One test was with Arctic Cat, One with Yamaha.
 
Just to clarify what Yamaha says

Apply molybdenum disulfide grease
2707735830104294530S600x600Q85.jpg
 
Ok, so then guys who do use clutch lube...
What do you think of this Dry Graphite stuff.

Crown 8078
Designed for engine or mechanical parts prior to their assembly. Made of natural colloidal graphite and is an ideal lubricant when petroleum products must be avoided.

Excellent choice for extreme temperature lubrication; between -100°F and 1000°F (-73°C and 538°C)
Dry, oil-free coating that won't attract dirt or dust
Does not contain oil or moisture-based dilutants
Stops squeaks and sticking on contact with excellent conductivity
Uniform coat bond prevents scoring and seizing
Unique protective film gives "new finish" appearance
Applications: automotive and industrial gaskets, conveyors, bearings, sliding windows and doors, locks, springs, chains, and pre-assembly lubrication of moving parts.

You can get it at ACE hardware.
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=1000001768
 
Or just stick with the Dry Moly?

Crown 6080
This quick drying lubricant leaves a thin film that provides extreme pressure lubrication.

Performs at temperatures between -100°F and 700°F (-73°C and 371°C)
Withstands pressures up to 100,000 psi
Quick drying
Ideal for assembly and break-in lubrication
Resists corrosion
Bonds to metal surfaces without attracting dirt or dust
Prevents sliding or threaded parts from seizing
Does not contain oil or dilutants
Applications: automotive and industrial gaskets, grinding belts, threaded connections, metal belts, rubber components, sliding surfaces and gears, cams, bearings, chain drives and pulleys, and conveyor belts where heat is present.

Link:
http://www.aervoe.com/paints_coatings/Dry-Moly-Lubricant.html
 
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