Clutching Advice

[tttario]

Hey Guys,

After alot of thought on mods this year, I think I am going with Allen's Trail Performer Package (PCIII, Ign. Mod., and mod air box). I am leaving the exhaust alone unless I can find a used Excell.

I currently have a strong running Attak that pulls 10,700 up top @ 110-113 on GPS across the lake. I really want to get to break the 120 mark this year. How much will I have to put into my cluching? Can I get away with a set of Drag n Flies or do I have to do some work to the secondary(helix, spring) as well.

That being said, I do want the best of both worlds as I do alot of trail riding as well, so mid range is important as well. Bottom does not concern me too much as long as I don't loose what I have now.

Please help Clutching Gods!!!!!

Trev

 

[BlueByYou2000]

You can break 120 with mostly stock components. Get your primary machined to shift out more (Ulmer can do this mod) and also your stock helix needs to be cut to allow the secondary to open more. From there run 40/24 gearing, stock weights, rollers and spring in primary. Run Yamaha White (stock in Attak) and stock helix set at 60 degrees. I ran that setup with an excell exhaust and hauck fuel accelerator and ran 123 on the gun in trail form, 192 studs. Keep in mind this was on an Apex RTX which is lighter and has less rolling resistance than the Attak.

 

[RacerDave]

You can break 120 with mostly stock components. Get your primary machined to shift out more (Ulmer can do this mod) and also your stock helix needs to be cut to allow the secondary to open more. From there run 40/24 gearing, stock weights, rollers and spring in primary. Run Yamaha White (stock in Attak) and stock helix set at 60 degrees. I ran that setup with an excell exhaust and hauck fuel accelerator and ran 123 on the gun in trail form, 192 studs. Keep in mind this was on an Apex RTX which is lighter and has less rolling resistance than the Attak.

BBY, how far was the run for that speed? Glare ice?

 

[BlueByYou2000]

You can break 120 with mostly stock components. Get your primary machined to shift out more (Ulmer can do this mod) and also your stock helix needs to be cut to allow the secondary to open more. From there run 40/24 gearing, stock weights, rollers and spring in primary. Run Yamaha White (stock in Attak) and stock helix set at 60 degrees. I ran that setup with an excell exhaust and hauck fuel accelerator and ran 123 on the gun in trail form, 192 studs. Keep in mind this was on an Apex RTX which is lighter and has less rolling resistance than the Attak.

BBY, how far was the run for that speed? Glare ice?

Half mile, glare ice.

 

[RTX Rox]

You can break 120 with mostly stock components. Get your primary machined to shift out more (Ulmer can do this mod) and also your stock helix needs to be cut to allow the secondary to open more. From there run 40/24 gearing, stock weights, rollers and spring in primary. Run Yamaha White (stock in Attak) and stock helix set at 60 degrees. I ran that setup with an excell exhaust and hauck fuel accelerator and ran 123 on the gun in trail form, 192 studs. Keep in mind this was on an Apex RTX which is lighter and has less rolling resistance than the Attak.

How much did you take off the primary and helix

 

[tttario]

You can break 120 with mostly stock components. Get your primary machined to shift out more (Ulmer can do this mod) and also your stock helix needs to be cut to allow the secondary to open more. From there run 40/24 gearing, stock weights, rollers and spring in primary. Run Yamaha White (stock in Attak) and stock helix set at 60 degrees. I ran that setup with an excell exhaust and hauck fuel accelerator and ran 123 on the gun in trail form, 192 studs. Keep in mind this was on an Apex RTX which is lighter and has less rolling resistance than the Attak.

Finally got a chance to open up the secondary on my attak and clean it up. I was lookind and at the way the helix "bottoms out" on the opposite sheeve preventing full shift out. Is this the part of the helix that gets "cut down" so to allow the helix to slide in all of the way allowing full shift? Or is the ramp angle cut?

I know of some people placing washers on the tower studs before re-installing the helix, that would help for full shift out but would it start you off in a higher gear as well?

Just from the look of wear on my clutch sheeves I can tell there is alot more left in the clutching for the big end, without sacrificing bottom and mid hopefully.