Clutching help - n/a Apex

[TurboMatt]

I have a few mods done to the sled: 162" Camo extreme track, 18/42 gearing, undertunnel exhaust, Boss seat.

I am trying to get my clutching a little better. I usually run the sled at 1000' elevation in the U.P., but just got back from the Snowies and that kinda brought my problems up a little more. Clutches are stock except for Supertips weights

First off, my clutch engagement is may too high & harsh in my opinion. It engages a about 4300rpms and it slams hard. I'd like to get this to engage in the 3500rpm range and engage softer.

Also, in the Snowies it seems like my rpm's are falling off while climbing. I have the weights setup so that it just barely redlines on the hardpack trail, but once I get on the steep and deep it has touble getting to 10000rpms, its usually in the 9700 range, but seems to jump up a down a bunch.
Secondary is bone stock, is there something that could be the problem here.
What can I do to solve these problems? I am not looking to spend a ton of money here, I am done modding the sled for this year, so if getting a aftermarket clutch kit is the only solution, i'm probably gonna have to wait till next season. I'm kinda looking for other small tweeks that could be done to the stock setup such as changing springs & whatnot.

thanks is advance

 

[TurboMatt]

I forgot to add, currently there is a white/silver/white primary spring in it.

 

[Wakegod]

The good news is that the supertips are very adjustable and with some adjustments you should be able to get very close.

How are your supertips setup?

My initial thought is to add weight to the heel to lower your engagement and most likely pull weight from the tip to help with your rpms in the powder.

 

[Turk]

You gotta set up your clutches for hardpack or powder. You really can,t do both unless your happy with mediocre performance in both areas. You need to get about 6-700 rpm over peak rpm,s on hardpack to get proper rpm,s in real deep snow sometimes even more..

 

[TurboMatt]

The good news is that the supertips are very adjustable and with some adjustments you should be able to get very close.

How are your supertips setup?

My initial thought is to add weight to the heel to lower your engagement and most likely pull weight from the tip to help with your rpms in the powder.

My supertips are 60g base weights. While up at high elevation(the Snowies) I run them bare, and I'd have to say that is about right. On the trail, the sled just barely starts to hit the rev limiter.

 

[TurboMatt]

You gotta set up your clutches for hardpack or powder. You really can,t do both unless your happy with mediocre performance in both areas. You need to get about 6-700 rpm over peak rpm,s on hardpack to get proper rpm,s in real deep snow sometimes even more..

I'm definately fine with setting up just for the powder. Show me the way!!!!
I was always under the impression that peak rpm's is 10500 is that correct?

 

[grapeape]

I run stock 121 Apex weights here, 10900 on trail is 10500 in pow, At the snowies I ran the stock high alt set-up with the rivet closest to the tip 1 weight lighter, 11000 on trail, 10500 in pow. I run stock gearing at the 1500 ele and the 10000 ele, under tunnel exh as well.

 

[Wakegod]

The good news is that the supertips are very adjustable and with some adjustments you should be able to get very close.

How are your supertips setup?

My initial thought is to add weight to the heel to lower your engagement and most likely pull weight from the tip to help with your rpms in the powder.

My supertips are 60g base weights. While up at high elevation(the Snowies) I run them bare, and I'd have to say that is about right. On the trail, the sled just barely starts to hit the rev limiter.

If your weights are bare, and you need 800rpm its gonna be a chore.
Without spending much money you might be able to go to a stiffer primary spring. Then maybe increase the twist on your secondary spring. Both those should help you get more RPM.

Turk knows far more about clutching than I do, so if he sent you something via PM I'd listen to him over me.

 

[GotJuice]

little help

IF you want the best of both worlds here is how you do it! Run the PC3 and change the rev limiter to 11500 have your sled bouncing the limiter on hard pack and when you go to the Snowies you'll be hitting your mark at 10500...10600. This is the only way to work out the RPM difference. YES it's safe and fine, being done by me and many others running these scenarios or running Nitrous to help compensate for RPM climb. Another option is the Shockwave secondary....it allows you to change the RPMS with the turn of a dial....you can gain or drop about 800 RPMS. They aren't the best Helix out but they are the most tunable and work good for these scenarious. I ride from sea level to 6000 feet sometimes in a day and without the higher rev limiter and Shockwave I'd be hurting when I go up high!
I'm going to change to a TEAM secondary as they are suppose to help with the drop but I haven't done it yet. Hope this helps.

 

[TurboMatt]

very helpful. What is a a good primary spring to run to lower my engagement rpm and make it so it doesn't engage so harshly?

 

[Wakegod]

I think an Orange Pink Orange might be the stiffest primary spring you can run. The Pink would keep your engagement low.

 

[TurboMatt]

I think an Orange Pink Orange might be the stiffest primary spring you can run. The Pink would keep your engagement low.

Now you are saying that would be the stiffest...what will that do for me? I want the clutches to be engage more smoothly than they currently do. Currently with the white/silver/white the engagement is very harsh, I'd like is smoother.

I have the spring chart in front of me. It lists specs for Preload and spring rate. What do these 2 things do for me?

 

[Wakegod]

The orange will give you some rpms.

The pink will lower your engagement vs the silver.