Mcmarkrazz
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Ok so I am confused from all the posts about how to set your shocks .
I have a stock 2013 basic nytro weight and I weight 200lbs and am 6"2.. Ride really hard and mix standing and sitting style riding.
Any suggestions on what I might want to set the stock shocks at? I am not looking to ,change,upgrade,shave,twist,melt,or replace the shock ..just adjust the stock for a better ride lol
Any input from experience would be great.
BTW we got 6 inches of fresh tonight so the snow will be flying tomorrow morning early
Cough cough I suddenly came down with something and will have to call in sick tommorrow.. Lmao
I have a stock 2013 basic nytro weight and I weight 200lbs and am 6"2.. Ride really hard and mix standing and sitting style riding.
Any suggestions on what I might want to set the stock shocks at? I am not looking to ,change,upgrade,shave,twist,melt,or replace the shock ..just adjust the stock for a better ride lol
Any input from experience would be great.
BTW we got 6 inches of fresh tonight so the snow will be flying tomorrow morning early
Cough cough I suddenly came down with something and will have to call in sick tommorrow.. Lmao
Sevey
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Have fun with this one - the question is...... what do you want out of the ride?
I have wrestled with this as everyone has their own view, opinion and goal on what they want the sled to feel like. It may not suit you...
This season I have started to play around with the suspension - have made things better but at times I made it worse to make it better.
I have had luck with the following (I run split rails with two 6" carbides, weigh 180lbs and am 6')
It doesnt hurt to write down your settings, then run the clickers the full range so you get an idea how many clicks you have from full soft to full hard - so you know how many clicks are half way.
In the end, in the front shocks - I have backed the compression way off (softer) and increased the rebound a bit.
Taken one full turn out of the preload which has taken alot of nervousness out of the front end and relaxed it.
The centre shock in the skid I have back of the preload and am debating to take one more revolution out. The rear shock has been softened as well.
I have tried pulling the limiter strap up but have put it back as it made things worse.
Good luck
MS
I have wrestled with this as everyone has their own view, opinion and goal on what they want the sled to feel like. It may not suit you...
This season I have started to play around with the suspension - have made things better but at times I made it worse to make it better.
I have had luck with the following (I run split rails with two 6" carbides, weigh 180lbs and am 6')
It doesnt hurt to write down your settings, then run the clickers the full range so you get an idea how many clicks you have from full soft to full hard - so you know how many clicks are half way.
In the end, in the front shocks - I have backed the compression way off (softer) and increased the rebound a bit.
Taken one full turn out of the preload which has taken alot of nervousness out of the front end and relaxed it.
The centre shock in the skid I have back of the preload and am debating to take one more revolution out. The rear shock has been softened as well.
I have tried pulling the limiter strap up but have put it back as it made things worse.
Good luck
MS
terez
Expert
susp
I have the same sled..2013 FX shorty. New to me this season.
I'm 200lb suited to ride, 6ft and ride pretty aggressive but mostly trail riding.
Sounds like we ride similarily too.....
This sled suspension has no clickes so we're limited to spring and chassis settings to se t up.
I'm new to the Nytro after more than 30yrs on Polaris 2strks.
The 1st 500 miles or so had me gettin used to the Nytro which took some time and patience...once I learned to ride the 4 strk and adapt to the Nytro's ergos/weight/handling quirkiness I am havin ablast on it.....Not gonna lie...I was frustrated and ready to bail from it at first!!
Here's my experience and observations after 1600 miles this yr so far in what is the best season in a while here
The sled is very fussy about sag height and ski spring pressure settings...much more than any sled I've had ....and I've been riding a new sled every couple yrs since the 80's.
Too little sag and the handling is unpredictable, squirrely and steering effort that fights back.
Too much sag and she won't turn and pushes terribly.
For me I end up running the skid torsion spring blocks on medium for regular trail conditions and medium/high (one on med the other on high) for rougher trails and or when charging harder....I only put them on high if I'm expecting to be jumping or riding crazy hard and or the terrain is ungroomed/really rough...the skid ride is very poor set this stiff tho as the oem shocks don't have enough comp or rebound capability for this.
This skid is capable and the oem shocks are pretty good at offering a decent trail ride in the usual chop but the shocks don't have the valving or fade resistance required for aggresive riding.....need rezzy's and clickers for that...it is what it is
I am never a fan of pulling in the limiter strap to address handling.....it reduces suspension travel...and on the 1st arm that sees a bump or hit..reduces transfer and makes the skid feel or act "dead" so I leave it in the stock loose position. I like the lively transfer and the overall nature it gives the sled for stand up riding and it keeps the front end light which the Nytro sorely needs....you just have to be more rider active to get the sled to turn and handle....I've learned you simply can't sit back and cruise on the Nytro..it just ain't designed for it and doesn't reward the rider for it.
The coupler blocks on this sled aren't adjustable so there's no approach here either...live with the coupling as is.
I have played with different carbides on the Tuner skis and am now running 6in woodys inside and 4in outside. The sled handles Great!! set up like this...a lil more steering effort than I'd optimally like but handles well and holds a line in corners even with the sag on the soft end of the spec.....they are a lil aggresive when new but once they get roughed up after the 1st couple rides they are perfect. 6inside and 2 outside works OK too.
I initially ran 4in 2 out and 4in just ain't enough if yer studded....I think you'd prolly be fine runnin 4in in and 2 out if unstudded but that's not my setup and we have lots of ice and very hardpack around here.
IMO the front suspension is really good....I don't see fade or bottoming probs at all....the skid shocks fade early when riding hard and or it's rough conds and with the ideal sag spec adjusted the skid bottoms on rough stuff and on G out hits......The skid shocks simply don't have enough comp/rebound valving or oil capacity. Rezzy shocks with better valving and clickers to adjust for conditions are required...no surprise...they are what they are....I think the skid is competent for the mission the Nytro is designed for....lively stand up playful riding and charging....it will never be a plush cruiser...doesn't have the coupling, motion ratio, adjustability, approach angle to do it.
So after this long winded feedback......
Set your skid sag to spec and deal with a bit of bottoming occasionally....it needs some sag to allow it to drop out when needed and to ride in the shocks stroke...and handle well.
I run the ski shocks a bit harder spring preload than usual.....typically only use enough tension to keep the spring in place when unloaded...I set mine two turns tighter than this and the sled resists bottoming much better and seems to match the shock valving well....any lighter and I had too much bottoming and inside ski lift too.
I am having a ton of fun on this thing!!
Two things that are must do's for the Nytro IMO are
Steering post relocate...the oem angle is retarded and contrary to human function...need to push/pull the bars rather than lift/pull like stock forces you to do....how did they fawk this up especially for a sled designed to ride standing a lot??????
The oem seat is too low and soft....I am running a Mountain Mod seat that is aprox 2in taller, firmer and provides a waaayyy better position getting knees higher than the hips and firmer.
The riding position is so superior and the transition from sitting to standing is immedaite and not tiring and moving around on the sled is user friendly.
Hope this helps
PS If I don't trade next yr and run this sled again I will prolly upgrade the skid shocks to better quality rezzy/clicker shocks with better baseline valving...will prolly run the front stockers..they work pretty good...adding rezzy's would be nice but not a must do.
I have the same sled..2013 FX shorty. New to me this season.
I'm 200lb suited to ride, 6ft and ride pretty aggressive but mostly trail riding.
Sounds like we ride similarily too.....
This sled suspension has no clickes so we're limited to spring and chassis settings to se t up.
I'm new to the Nytro after more than 30yrs on Polaris 2strks.
The 1st 500 miles or so had me gettin used to the Nytro which took some time and patience...once I learned to ride the 4 strk and adapt to the Nytro's ergos/weight/handling quirkiness I am havin ablast on it.....Not gonna lie...I was frustrated and ready to bail from it at first!!
Here's my experience and observations after 1600 miles this yr so far in what is the best season in a while here
The sled is very fussy about sag height and ski spring pressure settings...much more than any sled I've had ....and I've been riding a new sled every couple yrs since the 80's.
Too little sag and the handling is unpredictable, squirrely and steering effort that fights back.
Too much sag and she won't turn and pushes terribly.
For me I end up running the skid torsion spring blocks on medium for regular trail conditions and medium/high (one on med the other on high) for rougher trails and or when charging harder....I only put them on high if I'm expecting to be jumping or riding crazy hard and or the terrain is ungroomed/really rough...the skid ride is very poor set this stiff tho as the oem shocks don't have enough comp or rebound capability for this.
This skid is capable and the oem shocks are pretty good at offering a decent trail ride in the usual chop but the shocks don't have the valving or fade resistance required for aggresive riding.....need rezzy's and clickers for that...it is what it is
I am never a fan of pulling in the limiter strap to address handling.....it reduces suspension travel...and on the 1st arm that sees a bump or hit..reduces transfer and makes the skid feel or act "dead" so I leave it in the stock loose position. I like the lively transfer and the overall nature it gives the sled for stand up riding and it keeps the front end light which the Nytro sorely needs....you just have to be more rider active to get the sled to turn and handle....I've learned you simply can't sit back and cruise on the Nytro..it just ain't designed for it and doesn't reward the rider for it.
The coupler blocks on this sled aren't adjustable so there's no approach here either...live with the coupling as is.
I have played with different carbides on the Tuner skis and am now running 6in woodys inside and 4in outside. The sled handles Great!! set up like this...a lil more steering effort than I'd optimally like but handles well and holds a line in corners even with the sag on the soft end of the spec.....they are a lil aggresive when new but once they get roughed up after the 1st couple rides they are perfect. 6inside and 2 outside works OK too.
I initially ran 4in 2 out and 4in just ain't enough if yer studded....I think you'd prolly be fine runnin 4in in and 2 out if unstudded but that's not my setup and we have lots of ice and very hardpack around here.
IMO the front suspension is really good....I don't see fade or bottoming probs at all....the skid shocks fade early when riding hard and or it's rough conds and with the ideal sag spec adjusted the skid bottoms on rough stuff and on G out hits......The skid shocks simply don't have enough comp/rebound valving or oil capacity. Rezzy shocks with better valving and clickers to adjust for conditions are required...no surprise...they are what they are....I think the skid is competent for the mission the Nytro is designed for....lively stand up playful riding and charging....it will never be a plush cruiser...doesn't have the coupling, motion ratio, adjustability, approach angle to do it.
So after this long winded feedback......
Set your skid sag to spec and deal with a bit of bottoming occasionally....it needs some sag to allow it to drop out when needed and to ride in the shocks stroke...and handle well.
I run the ski shocks a bit harder spring preload than usual.....typically only use enough tension to keep the spring in place when unloaded...I set mine two turns tighter than this and the sled resists bottoming much better and seems to match the shock valving well....any lighter and I had too much bottoming and inside ski lift too.
I am having a ton of fun on this thing!!
Two things that are must do's for the Nytro IMO are
Steering post relocate...the oem angle is retarded and contrary to human function...need to push/pull the bars rather than lift/pull like stock forces you to do....how did they fawk this up especially for a sled designed to ride standing a lot??????
The oem seat is too low and soft....I am running a Mountain Mod seat that is aprox 2in taller, firmer and provides a waaayyy better position getting knees higher than the hips and firmer.
The riding position is so superior and the transition from sitting to standing is immedaite and not tiring and moving around on the sled is user friendly.
Hope this helps
PS If I don't trade next yr and run this sled again I will prolly upgrade the skid shocks to better quality rezzy/clicker shocks with better baseline valving...will prolly run the front stockers..they work pretty good...adding rezzy's would be nice but not a must do.
Mcmarkrazz
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Steering post relocate...the oem angle is retarded and contrary to human function...need to push/pull the bars rather than lift/pull like stock forces you to do....how did they fawk this up especially for a sled designed to ride standing a lot??????
The oem seat is too low and soft....I am running a Mountain Mod seat that is aprox 2in taller, firmer and provides a waaayyy better position getting knees higher than the hips and firmer.
The riding position is so superior and the transition from sitting to standing is immedaite and not tiring and moving around on the sled is user friendly.
Did the relocat and WRP seat is in the mail ..alao skid plate from mountainteck..
So front shocks to turnd from totaly loose igot the rext iguess i gotta read again unless you can give me crib note instructions lol..
Thanks for the great input
The oem seat is too low and soft....I am running a Mountain Mod seat that is aprox 2in taller, firmer and provides a waaayyy better position getting knees higher than the hips and firmer.
The riding position is so superior and the transition from sitting to standing is immedaite and not tiring and moving around on the sled is user friendly.
Did the relocat and WRP seat is in the mail ..alao skid plate from mountainteck..
So front shocks to turnd from totaly loose igot the rext iguess i gotta read again unless you can give me crib note instructions lol..
Thanks for the great input
