Console, tail lights and accessory fuse blown.

[vtrider]

I was out riding in the last couple weeks on my 2016 SR Viper and my dash went blank along with the tail lights and accessory connections. I replaced the 20 AMP tail light fuse from the fuse block, which is a pain to get to and that fixed the problem. Needless to say this happened again this week and both times was caused by my heated shield cable falling off my helmet and shorted on the floorboards of my sled. I will eventually get the fuse block relocator kit to make it easier to get to the fuse block. For now though to prevent this from happening again, I made a fuse connector to add to the heated shield harness on the sled. I made this with an SAE two pin extension cable. I added a fuse holder on the red wire and plugged the cable in between the heated shield cable harness and the accessory plug that it goes into. I routed this in such a way that I could access it from removing just the side panel on the right side sled where the accessory plug is located. I added a 5 AMP fuse to the fuse holder. Now if the heated shield cable should short out again for some reason, it will take out the 5 AMP fuse and not the 20 AMP fuse in the fuse block. This way I will still have the console and tail lights still working even if the 5 AMP fuse is blown for the heated shield.

 

[cannondale27]

Cool! Also make sure on your heated shield the Polarity isnt reversed. If its reversed the outside part of plug is hot and will for sure pop the fuse anytime it touches ground. Inside pin is way less likely to ground out and pop the fuse.

 

[Mike P]

I was out riding in the last couple weeks on my 2016 SR Viper and my dash went blank along with the tail lights and accessory connections. I replaced the 20 AMP tail light fuse from the fuse block, which is a pain to get to and that fixed the problem. Needless to say this happened again this week and both times was caused by my heated shield cable falling off my helmet and shorted on the floorboards of my sled. I will eventually get the fuse block relocator kit to make it easier to get to the fuse block. For now though to prevent this from happening again, I made a fuse connector to add to the heated shield harness on the sled. I made this with an SAE two pin extension cable. I added a fuse holder on the red wire and plugged the cable in between the heated shield cable harness and the accessory plug that it goes into. I routed this in such a way that I could access it from removing just the side panel on the right side sled where the accessory plug is located. I added a 5 AMP fuse to the fuse holder. Now if the heated shield cable should short out again for some reason, it will take out the 5 AMP fuse and not the 20 AMP fuse in the fuse block. This way I will still have the console and tail lights still working even if the 5 AMP fuse is blown for the heated shield.

I use a male to female cable with the male side plugged into my sled and then use a cable with a male end on both sides to connect to my helmet. With this combo when I forget to unplug and the cable flies off it won't short out on anything. It is actually a pretty standard way of connecting your heated shield.

https://www.amazon.com/Snowmobile-H...84&sr=8-2&keywords=electric+shield+power+cord

 

[vtrider]

I use a male to female cable with the male side plugged into my sled and then use a cable with a male end on both sides to connect to my helmet. With this combo when I forget to unplug and the cable flies off it won't short out on anything. It is actually a pretty standard way of connecting your heated shield.

https://www.amazon.com/Snowmobile-H...84&sr=8-2&keywords=electric+shield+power+cord

View attachment 139616

Thanks for the information.
After I blew the 20 AMP fuse a second time that is the setup I now use on my helmet. Adding a fuse holder with a 5 AMP fuse to the heat shield harness just gives the added protection without taking out the 20 AMP fuse in the fuse box, should the heat shield connection short out for any reason.

 

[Chief Gotta Go]

I had a friend that had the same issue .....and I am sure I will eventually ......going to experiment over the summer with Bourns solid state resetting fuses to see if they will work . they have one with wire lead that I can splice in and soldier . http://www.bourns.com/products/circuit-protection/resettable-fuses-multifuse-pptc .They have one in the 4 amp hold , if it works it will eliminate nucience shorts from dropping the cable end