Convert Proaction Skid (03 RX Mtn)

doo_man

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Anyone have experience converting Proaction to skid to conventional suspension set-up. I realize there are more mechanics to it than appears, it seems that you could remove the rear shock and coupling etc and replace with conventional pieces. Obviously some measurements would be critical to avoid poor suspension compression but could it or has it been done? Mainly for weight savings, I'm realitively happy with ride just looking for better attack angle and to save weight. Was considering Cat skid, but would like to "work" over Proaction if possible.
 
Not really what I'm thinking, too much Proaction still there. No real weight loss, don't see real benefit. Possibly ride, but I don't find ride that bad. Looking for conversion more like conventional skids.
 
Dooman, I was contemplating the same thing. It should be relatively easy if your mechanically inclined to fab. brackets and stick a conventional coil over spring in there off an m-10 style skid, or a set of springs like off a Cat / Doo. Why can't we use the brackets like on the ProActive skid (like in a Venture or the new Nytro) to convert it. The front shock should be fine to leave alone. Gotta be a way. I think it would save quite a bit of weight and let the skid work more independently. Might even be able to ditch the transfer rods altogether and save some more weight. I have just purchased a BOSS highrise seat and Cat SnoPro bars on an 8 in. art riser and will do the "Nytro Style" rider forward conversion in a few weeks. I was planning on removing the transfer rods anyway, and give it a try without them. Being able to get over the front of the machine, I'm thinking I can control the transfer myself with body weight, and let the skid work like it ought to. Chime in here guys, I haven't given up on the old Yammi quite yet!!
 
I was considering coverting using Doo/Cat parts for the rear of the suspension, basically just using rails and leaving front alone. Can't see any real issues, just would like to use all of the track and better climbing set-up. ProAction ride I never did find bad, except in bad moguls and control was a real issue!
 
The only way to get a better atack angle is to use a shorter skid (144") from another manufacturer such as AC, an after market skid or a new tunnel with a built in Drop & Roll. My suspension mod was done to act like a M-10 used in the RMKs using existing parts (rear coil over shock) rather than a torsion spring and gas/hydraulic shock and eliminate ratcheting (so far it has worked). My next skid will be either a Holz Racing skid www.holzracingproducts.com or a billet Mountain Addiction (Ekholm) skid www.mountainaddiction.com ;)! I'm leaning towards the Mountain addiction with their tunnel (under the lighten up link). I'm just guessing but I think the $2500 price on the Ekholm is Cdn.

Red2003, loosing the transfer rods will make your sled transfer weight better but it will also cause serious ratcheting under hard acceleration. That is the reason I did the mod posted in the link above. I allready had MPI's transfer enhancement kit (eliminates the cotrol rods) and had good luck avoiding ratcheting until warmer weather created firmer snow and better traction.
 
Blgs,

I plan to try this on my 03 shorty. I'd love to get rid of those darn control rods. I want to get that rear suspension to work independently for ride and hook up. My thought was that with the rider forward position, I could use my weight to keep the front planted through the turns and sit back to get more bite coming out. Never tried it, but its a thought.
 
Red2003 said:
Blgs,

I plan to try this on my 03 shorty. I'd love to get rid of those darn control rods. I want to get that rear suspension to work independently for ride and hook up. My thought was that with the rider forward position, I could use my weight to keep the front planted through the turns and sit back to get more bite coming out. Never tried it, but its a thought.

Are you planning on doing the MPI kit or my mod? Lazybastard said the mod I did to the FRA won't work on the shorty because of the lack of room on the rails behind the front w-arm. Check this before doing any cutting if you are going to try the FRA mod.

If you are running extoverts you can get the MPI kit that eliminates the rear control rods (5lbs) and keep from ratcheting the track.

My sled has the front limiters all the way out front shock set to second softest position and rear shock set in the middle. With the mod I did I get killer tranfer and the track doesn't ratchet using the stock drivers. Before with just the MPI kit and stock FRA placement up in the tunnel I would have severe ratcheting on wet/firm snow that allowed max hookup. I never had a problem on soft snow though.


Jim
 
I want to get rid of everything ProAction behind the front shock/spring. FRA gone, coupling gone, transfer rods gone. I'm thinking an m-10 style rear coil over and that's it. Gotta be a way to make it work, It would save a ton of weight and its bound to ride better. How could it ride worse :o| ? Is the track ratcheting caused by too much transfer and misalignment of the suspension mounts? If so, I'd chop and rebuild while I'm in there. Did Yamah mess up this skid THAT bad. Geez LaLaLa
 
Red, when Yamaha built this skid they didn't plan on the sled operating with the rear transfer rods removed. Running the MPI transfer enhancement kit eliminates these rods and causes the track to ratchet unless it is real tight (tighter than the Yamaha specs in the owners manual).

My mod is about what you said. Except I used the stock yamaha parts and modified them instead of finding ones that would work. I plan on buying a whole new skid sometime down the road and this will get me by until then. Even the wife's RMK 900 has a FRA, it's just different from Yamaha's. It has three different holes to put the shock in rather than the slot.
 
Well, I'm doin it! I picked up a complete M7 skid less the rails. Initially I thought I'd just change the rear assembly but after some measuring and messing around tonight I'm going to swap it all using RX-1 Mtn rails and rear idlers. All measurements look good, have to make or buy brackets for front arm to mount to rails and new drop down brackets but all others will match up good. Concerned about ratcheting somewhat, but sled ratchet with Proaction unless track was real tight. Anybody try this before, or is it a live and learn situation?
 


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