muskrat
Pro
Can any CPR turbo guys tell me how they ran the switch for boost adjustment that comes with Simons kit. I am doing the final work on my turbo install and am stuck. I have the small clear line connected to the toggle switch and the black tee between boost reg and turbo, question is what does the other outlet on switch get connected too. Thanks , any help would be cool.
Muskrat
Muskrat
I replied on the general secition, but It doesnt connect to anything, it vents to atmosphere...BBY
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
Jet side of t goes toward turbo...........I took this switch off of mine ......
For some reason it caused my sled to burn oil especially before the engine was warmed up .......the restriction may cause oil to get past the seals in the turbo ?...............Maybe I just got a unit with a bad seal ?
Even without the boost switch it blows a little blue smoke when cold ......
For some reason it caused my sled to burn oil especially before the engine was warmed up .......the restriction may cause oil to get past the seals in the turbo ?...............Maybe I just got a unit with a bad seal ?
Even without the boost switch it blows a little blue smoke when cold ......
yamamax
Extreme
RXHALLER, are you saying that you just disconnected the clear line from the switch and that made a difference in oil consumption?
grauser
Extreme
I spoke with Jeff Simon's about the blue smoke when cold. I even had oil running out the inlet of the turbo and into the filter. There isn't a seal in the turbo like you would picture - - it's a labrynth design with a ring like a piston ring. Oil fills this area and then the excess spills back into the motor through the turbo drain hose.
If your motor has excessive blowby (which mine does, I can feel it puff out if I hold my thumb over the evac hose for a few seconds and then remove it) the pressure inside the valve cover won't let the oil drain back into the motor and it either gets blown in by turbo (blue smoke) or runs into filter.
I just hope this is temporary until a good ring seal is established from putting on some miles. Jeff said another person from Canada called and it cleared up after he got some miles on it.
Also it may just be worse when you first start and the oil is a little thicker and doesn't want to drain back into the motor (just a theory).
If your motor has excessive blowby (which mine does, I can feel it puff out if I hold my thumb over the evac hose for a few seconds and then remove it) the pressure inside the valve cover won't let the oil drain back into the motor and it either gets blown in by turbo (blue smoke) or runs into filter.
I just hope this is temporary until a good ring seal is established from putting on some miles. Jeff said another person from Canada called and it cleared up after he got some miles on it.
Also it may just be worse when you first start and the oil is a little thicker and doesn't want to drain back into the motor (just a theory).
Buckeye
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I am venting the valve cover also.
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had a really good cloud of smoke going with the boost switch plumbing when it was cold , when it was on the high boost setting oil actually was creeping up the line towards the valve .I took the switch off for now , it is not as bad w/ out the boost switch , but still burns oil until the sled is warmed up . I may try venting the valve cover also and see if this helps .
yamamax
Extreme
grauser, I am the person from Canada that Jeff is referring to. When I first installed the turbo I had the same problem that you describe. While it has gotten better there is still more oil than I would like to see. How are you planning on venting your valve cover?
yamamax
Extreme
How about running the return line to the oil resevoir rather than the valve cover? This way no amount of back pressure would matter.
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
"How about running the return line to the oil resevoir rather than the valve cover? This way no amount of back pressure would matter."
..........Exactly what I was Thinking.........or a "t" so it could return to both.
..........Exactly what I was Thinking.........or a "t" so it could return to both.
yamamax
Extreme
Maybe Jeff could give us an answer? The tee sound like a perfect fix.
Buckeye
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McXpress was draining their front mounts into the valve cover, but not now. They tied into the oil hose on the front of the crankcase. I now use the hole on the valve cover as another vent to an oil separator vent which drains into the hose on the crankcase. I run the oil return line, from the turbo, to a fitting I tapped into the block next to the gear reduction cover.
peteracing
Expert
Very good idea BUCKEYE. wen changing rods &/ or pistons i should have
tapped a oil return hole
tapped a oil return hole
Buckeye
Lifetime Member
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You still can do it. Just remove the gear reduction cover. you can block the passages with cloths drill a hole into the flat boss on the front of the block, right next to the gear reduction cover. Tap in a 1/8 npt. Use some brake cleaner first to remove oil residue and when finished to remove any aluminum chips. Then replace the gear cover and you are in business. Northeast Turbo includes this with their kits.
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