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06 Attak stalling at idle

Hi to all members on this site. First time 4 stroke owner. I just purchases a 2006 attak with 6000 miles on it that had an idle problem when I bought the sled, stalls sometimes when I let off the throttle. I removed the IAC and cleaned it and replaced the plugs. I checked the coils also and they are within spec. I checked the vacuum in cyl 1,3,4 have 7" HG and cyl 2 has 13" hg. I also checked the compression cyl 1=165,

cleaner, and it has absolutely no effect on the rpms. I also stuck a different IAC valve on there and got the same results.
I am at a total loss here, Is it possible that the ECU is throwing the spark timing off to the #2 cyl so its not firing at the right time ? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I know this seems to be a broken record from all the reading I did on the web last year. With 6000 mi I hope its not a valve adjustment problem.
I had the same issue and just turned up the idle speed on the IAC valve and its been fine since adjusting

 

I had the same issue and just turned up the idle speed on the IAC valve and its been fine since adjusting
I am not that lucky, I already have it turned up as far as it would go. It didn't seem to have any affect at all. Last night I put a complete used throttle body complete with all sensors and injectors. I had to use my old TPS but have a new one on order. After I was finished the swap, the sled ran horrible like it was running on two or three cyl. I got to mess with it again tonight and found two injectors not functioning. So much for the used throttle body coming off of a "Perfectly running machine" that I purchased. I swapped in two of my old injectors and it seems to be running like a champ again. I will find out tomorrow if my stalling issue is gone or not.
 
Well the stalling problem is still there, but the idle control screw does seem to now have some effect. I will try and set the TPS slightly out of spec and see if that makes it idle higher consistently. Well, that is such a pain to get to for adjustment I decided to get the new updated TPS and then found out that it is redesigned and would not engage the throttle shaft (to short). The used throttle body I put on the sled was supposed to be from an 2007 apex gt. I looked and it was the same part number for the throttle body and the TPS as my 2006 attak so I thought I was good. But before I installed it I noticed the throttle shaft where it mates to the TPS was thinner and shorter and was oriented 90 degrees different than my original. This was no big deal because inside the receiving hole on my old TPS it was designed to except either one, and it did. The New updated TPS part 3P6-85885-00-00 does not mate up to this different throttle body but does to my original. My old TPS does appear to be good according to the specs for resistance and voltage in the Yamaha manual. But I find it curious that the new updated part from Yamaha is actually out of spec by design to the manual. Now that makes me really want to make the install of the new TPS work to see if all of my stalling problems go away.
 

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Sorry my pics were to big to send in the previous post
 

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Are you back to your original throttle bodies, injectors, etc? I just wonder if you are introducing additional problems with the used parts, which you found with the plugged injectors.
 
No, I'm still using the used part. The IAC seems to work better than my original. Or there is less wear on the throttle plates or bushing maybe, because at least now there is some adjustability in the idle screw were before I had none. If this adapter to make the new TPS work on this part is unsuccessful I will go back to my original but pull the IAC valve and hoses off the used part and swap that to my original throttle body. This is a time-consuming pain in the #*$&@. And the injectors on the used part were not plugged, the solenoid inside them was not working. No clicking sound when using the diag tst mode on the sled.
 
No, I'm still using the used part. The IAC seems to work better than my original. Or there is less wear on the throttle plates or bushing maybe, because at least now there is some adjustability in the idle screw were before I had none. If this adapter to make the new TPS work on this part is unsuccessful I will go back to my original but pull the IAC valve and hoses off the used part and swap that to my original throttle body. This is a time-consuming pain in the #*$&@. And the injectors on the used part were not plugged, the solenoid inside them was not working. No clicking sound when using the diag tst mode on the sled.
When I adjusted my idle speed I did not use the screws but turned the knob on the end of it
 
When I adjusted my idle speed I did not use the screws but turned the knob on the end of it
There is only one idle screw, it is the one with the knob that you were talking about.
The other 4 screws are for individual cyl adjustments on the IAC. I would not mess with those without sync meter.
 


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