CR Racing Chromoly A-arms

[henningb]

I mounted the chromoly CR Racing A-Arms 38 stance on my Nytro. Its Very easy to sidehill and tip over now, but the steering has become much harder from side to side, specially felt on packed snow. The tie rod has to be cut in a bit to for this kit, so i guess that does not help excactly on the steering..

Does anyone else have the CR Racing A- arms ? Whats your experience with the steering after mounting this kit ?

Regards Henning

 

[fishstick]

Really you have to "cut" to fit the tie rods. That not good! I guess that why skinz bent theirs. You should have taken a look at the Barcode kit. Fits like a glove!
Anyhow your going to need to start adjusting your rear set up. More centre shock pressure will help with the heavy steering feel.

 

[Off Trail Mike]

Fishstick is putting you on the right path. Up the center shock pressure, decrease the rear suspension shock a bit, and once that's done, play with front ski shock pressure. 5 psi increments. It will put more weight on the track and less on the skis.

CR +3" forward setup also reduced the a-arm width from stock 39" to 36 or 38" so you need to shorten your stock steering arms if you want to use them. I think maybe it was a small cost saver to shorten and reuse stock steering arms. The skinz arms kept the stock 39" width but needed the "custom" bent steering arms because they pushed the a-arms so far forward. I have the skinz set up so I know it well.

Heavy steering is a fact of life with all Nytro's unfortunately and the forward designs make it even more sensitive. Think the CR is bad, you should try the Skinz for heavy steering. Takes a lot of redesign to eliminate that feeling, and simply changing a-arms won't fix it.

Try changing pressures, it will definitely help.

OTM

 

[Barcode]

The centre shock is the one to really go after. Have patience it will come together. The Nytro's never going to feel like it has power steering. But it will get better

 

[Boneless]

I have the CR 36" and I love them. I don't think cutting the tie rods matters to much on your pressure for turning. And you get to keep straight rods which are stronger than the bends. I found mine to make turning on trails and trees way easier, and no snow packed on the a-arms. I found them also to be surprisingly strong (nailed a tree and bent my frame, but the a-arms didn't bend, crazy). I've ridden the skinz +4.5 and 39 and can't say there is much difference in effort to turn, but the 36" make it easier to get on it's side and stay there.
Mess with your track suspension. It will never be like a Polaris but then again it weights 150 lbs more.

 

[fishstick]

For gettin on your side the 36" is defiantly the way to go.

 

[Off Trail Mike]

Hey Boneless:

Couple of questions if you don't mind.
1. What ski stance are you running with the 36" A-Arms. Centered or something else.
2. Is the

 

[Off Trail Mike]

2. What's the approx. camber angle on the CR setup? Should be 20 - 23 degrees.

Only reason I ask is I'm trying to set up a new front end and just trying to get some real world feedback.

OTM

 

[Boneless]

I left the skis centered figuring I could narrow them if I felt it needed more give, but I'm pleased with the middle. The camber is -2, which is CRs recommendation.
I should note that I know my track settings have played a role in how the front end handles, I have the limiter on the second longest setting, 100 psi in both track shocks and 70 psi in the front. I rode a couple Arctic Cats yesterday to compare and it's way easier to pull over and even easier to turn than either a 2012 or 2014 AC Mountain Cat with the stock a-arms. The 2014 was a bear to turn. Similar to the Yamaha before the a-arms.

 

[akvector]

so is it because I weight 230lbs that I think the stock aarm 08 nytro is easy to carve and hold a carve? The only real complaint I have is a down hill turn to go back up it really does not do and when side hilling it does not like to hold the line usually climbs. I would like to fix some of the dartyness.

 

[Off Trail Mike]

I left the skis centered figuring I could narrow them if I felt it needed more give, but I'm pleased with the middle. The camber is -2, which is CRs recommendation.
I should note that I know my track settings have played a role in how the front end handles, I have the limiter on the second longest setting, 100 psi in both track shocks and 70 psi in the front. I rode a couple Arctic Cats yesterday to compare and it's way easier to pull over and even easier to turn than either a 2012 or 2014 AC Mountain Cat with the stock a-arms. The 2014 was a bear to turn. Similar to the Yamaha before the a-arms.

Thanks for the info Boneless. You don't have an approx. on caster as well???? Think I meant caster on my last post question, but wrote camber....


I've been looking at the caster of most sleds out there today, and I find a pretty big range: The skidoo and AC have the steepest (18-20 degrees), Yami is in the middle at 22-23 and Poo is 24 degrees approximately.

Always wondering what the aftermarket does, so if you have caster for CR arms, that would be great. I know that CMX have an A-Arm kit that reduces caster on the RMK and say it's much easier to ride. That's there opinion, but not sure what rider feedback has been.

Building new a-arms for nytro and trying to pin down caster, but I think 20 is where I'll start.

Thanks


OTM

 

[Boneless]

To akvector,
I find I can hold a sidehill much better with the new arm. I also find the sled springs back up easier from a carve. I don't think it's much different on the downhill #*$&@ turns. I only weigh about 170lbs, but just the sled weight has to be a hinderance. Also I have the 162 which has really soft lugs which I think don't hook up as well as some other tracks.

To OTM
I'm not sure what you're asking about caster. Moving the ski forward does change the angle forward, or positive about 2 degrees over stock. But I don't know what stock is. I've talked to a couple people who have hooked up their Ski Doo spindles just carving and catching a dip. The a-arms and steering bracket would get bent and have to be replaced and they swear they didn't hit anything solid but compression. So reducing the caster too far may be bad.

 

[henningb]

1. How do i adjust the center shock pressure ? And to How much ?
2. How to know / measure When i hit -2 degrees negative camber ? And where is toe out adjusted?

Thanks a lot !!

 

[Boneless]

I have the FOX shocks so shock pressure is adjusted with an air pump.
The CR arms have threaded ball joints so for the -2 camber I just hung a plumb bob, calculated what - 2 from the top of the spindle to the bottom off my plumb bob and either screwed them in or out. They have instructions on their web site.