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CR10EK Plugs in an ATTAK

I talked to the parts guy at my local dealer and he said you might get a bit more throttle response and he said for the money its not worth it. Does anyone have a dyno sheet comparison?
 

Everyones questions will be answered by reading this entire post. Lots of good info here.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ght=cr10ek

Preety much summed up: You need to put on threaded tips on the cr10ek's, best way is to take em off your old plugs or buy 4 cheap other plugs with the threaded tips and just switch them. There is only power gain, no other dis-advantage or bad experience yet. You can feel the gain from some experiences. Motorcylces have been doing this for years. Make sure the length of threaded end of the spark plug is the same length as the stock one @ 19.0mm (0.75in). This is also known as "reach"
 
You can tell the difference in the field. Where else can you add 2-3 hp for under $40????
 
TTT

I did not know this when i did it last night so!!! Made it a pain! Get some before you take her down!!

TTT
 
you can take some from any plug like a br9es...
I used the smallest amount of red locktight to lock them down
 
Red Locktite conduct or resist electricity. I really don't know but would hate to go throught all that work only to find out I hurt the performance.

ANy one know for sure


Yamadoo
 
Red Locktite conduct or resist electricity. I really don't know but would hate to go throught all that work only to find out I hurt the performance.

ANy one know for sure


Yamadoo
 
SpecRTX said:
I just called NGK and asked about the difference in heat ranges. They actally recommended a CR9EIX. It's the same heat range as stock (CR9EB). However, the electrode ground is made from Iridium and is also thinner. This allows for a much more complete burn in the combustion chamber. If anyone has done any testing with these plugs, I would be very interested to see the results.

I do believe these iridium plugs actually lost power. Ted Jannety uses them and has had good luck with them.
 
locktite IS NOT A CONDUCTOR OF ELECTRICITY...in fact would resist...but the amount used is so nominal (on like one thread) it is insignificant.
 
I would not recommend using loctite for the spark plugs. Why would you do this? You are asking for trouble when taking them out the next time or on the trail. Dont do it! It is not needed these plugs self lock themselves down with the special washer that comes with the plugs.
 
Sled Dog said:
I would not recommend using loctite for the spark plugs. Why would you do this? You are asking for trouble when taking them out the next time or on the trail. Dont do it! It is not needed these plugs self lock themselves down with the special washer that comes with the plugs.

I think they are referring to a small amount of loctite on the screw on plug tips to keep them from loosening up on the plugs.
 
Why would you need to loctite the caps on?? The coil sucks down on the plug pretty good and then its bolted down. There's no where for the tip to go. Tell me how it will viberate off. ??
 
mrance111 said:
Sled Dog said:
I would not recommend using loctite for the spark plugs. Why would you do this? You are asking for trouble when taking them out the next time or on the trail. Dont do it! It is not needed these plugs self lock themselves down with the special washer that comes with the plugs.

I think they are referring to a small amount of loctite on the screw on plug tips to keep them from loosening up on the plugs.

exactly..not the coils or caps...not the throw on the plugs...but the plug tip nuts...which with vibration can loosen ..

the amount is so minimal yet enough to keep them from backing off
 
Goofy said:
Why would you need to loctite the caps on?? The coil sucks down on the plug pretty good and then its bolted down. There's no where for the tip to go. Tell me how it will viberate off. ??

This I agree with completly if it was needed it would be supplied on a new plug.
 


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