yamagone
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I took my Curves off my Viper and put them on the SW. Problem is I don't have enough adjustment on the tie rod to adjust the proper toe out. As it sits now the ski is perfectly straight. No problem adjusting the right side.
SAB1
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How much you trying adjust? I just put my Curves on last night and Im doing mine tonight (toe) and the Folks at Curve told me 1/8" on each side.
yamagone
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I can't get 1/8" out. I'm out of adjustment on the tie rod. I better check how straight my straight edge is. Maybe it's slightly bent. Like I said I had no problem with the right side. I was drinking beer last night so I'll so after it again tonight.How much you trying adjust? I just put my Curves on last night and Im doing mine tonight (toe) and the Folks at Curve told me 1/8" on each side.


**sj**
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straighten handlebars...take the heim joint nut loose...now you are able to turn the joint or the rod to create more adjustment..
SAB1
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I was going to do mine last night but the Curve ski doesnt seem to have a straight edge along its length like the Yamaha skis. More hour glass shaped. Ist wider right at the tail end and then again up above the spindle mount point. Im curious to see if these two points are equally as wide. If not how do you get 1/8 out?


**sj**
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I was going to do mine last night but the Curve ski doesnt seem to have a straight edge along its length like the Yamaha skis. More hour glass shaped. Ist wider right at the tail end and then again up above the spindle mount point. Im curious to see if these two points are equally as wide. If not how do you get 1/8 out?
use the carbide bolts fore and aft for the measure points and adjust accordingly
SAB1
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Ahhh. Good idea. Sometimes the obvious isnt so obvious for me! Thanks much
yamaha06
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Just use a tape measure. Back center to center ski, and front center to center ski. Very easy to find the center of the back of ski and the center of the front loop. Front measurement should be longer by 1/8”.
I start by sitting on the sled and looking straight ahead, and position your handle bars to what feels straight.
Get off the sled and walk to the back, stand center and then look at where your rear ski position is on the belly pan side without moving your head position. If perfect, both skis will show same amount of ski before hiding under belly pan.
I find that the straight edge from track method takes much more time, and does not yield any better results.
My bars have to be perfectly straight when riding, that is one of my pet peeves. When swapping sleds with others it really bothers me if their bars are off just a tiny bit.
I start by sitting on the sled and looking straight ahead, and position your handle bars to what feels straight.
Get off the sled and walk to the back, stand center and then look at where your rear ski position is on the belly pan side without moving your head position. If perfect, both skis will show same amount of ski before hiding under belly pan.
I find that the straight edge from track method takes much more time, and does not yield any better results.
My bars have to be perfectly straight when riding, that is one of my pet peeves. When swapping sleds with others it really bothers me if their bars are off just a tiny bit.
yamagone
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Guys I know what I have to do to align the skis. As I mentioned the left side tie ride WILL NOT turn enough to achieve the correct toe out. The best I can get is the exact same distance front and rear with ZERO toe out.
snowbiscuit
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Take the boot loose(pop pins out) and loosen locking nut on other end of tie rod
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Guys I know what I have to do to align the skis. As I mentioned the left side tie ride WILL NOT turn enough to achieve the correct toe out. The best I can get is the exact same distance front and rear with ZERO toe out.
An easy job turned into a not as easy job, thanks to whoever put it together at the factory. Other end of rod not as easy to get at, and this style sled does not have spindle clamps with splined shaft, so yeah, 1 choice it sounds like, other end of rod!
SAB1
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Ok guys little more help. Now that yamaha06 provided me with directions I didn't have I have removed the skis because like a donkey I put the spindle bushing and washer outside. I see the bushing goes inside. So I have that done but....in the arm the bolt passes thru a sleeve. On the outside of the arm and over the sleeve there is a spacer that was on for the tuners. Did u guys leave that spacer off when mounting the curves. With spindle bushing installed on the curves I can't see how I'd ever get them on with that spacer.
SAB1
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Looking at it again I don't see how that sleeve fits between the the curve bushings without cutting 3/32 off the sleeve or possibly putting the bushing in from the outside and finding thin washers for the inside. What did u guys do?
Motorhead
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Looking at it again I don't see how that sleeve fits between the the curve bushings without cutting 3/32 off the sleeve or possibly putting the bushing in from the outside and finding thin washers for the inside. What did u guys do?
I bought and installed my curves last season. I did not have a problem with the ski accepting the sleeve and bushing, but had a beech of a time with the Curve rubbers. Instructions would have been nice on my part also. HUH??
Also remember reading another post a week or two ago. They had similar problems, ski was too tight. They were purchased thru BFOP and he was part of the communication concerning.
Research that thread for the outcome!
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