4strokeluvr111
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Here's what's up:
* My handlebars are turned slightly to the right.....about 1.5"
* First I straighten the handlebars - measure from the bar to the farthest tunnel rivet
* Then align the LH ski to the track - (had to lengthen the tie rod distance)
* I then try to set the toe out on the RH ski and there not enough adjustment in the tie rod end to get the proper toe out (I have a bungee cord on the loops)
OK...something must be slightly bent?
So I get the skis aligned to the track and the toe out set.....how do I adjust the bars to get them straight? Is there an EASY way to do it without tearing into the sled again?
Or what am I doing wrong?
Thanks for any help and advice you can give me!

* My handlebars are turned slightly to the right.....about 1.5"
* First I straighten the handlebars - measure from the bar to the farthest tunnel rivet
* Then align the LH ski to the track - (had to lengthen the tie rod distance)
* I then try to set the toe out on the RH ski and there not enough adjustment in the tie rod end to get the proper toe out (I have a bungee cord on the loops)
OK...something must be slightly bent?
So I get the skis aligned to the track and the toe out set.....how do I adjust the bars to get them straight? Is there an EASY way to do it without tearing into the sled again?
Or what am I doing wrong?
Thanks for any help and advice you can give me!

stook
Extreme
You will have to adjust the rod from your handle bar shaft down to the tie rods. Use a crow foot socket with an extension to get at the bottom jam nut.
Chasx7
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Here is what I do. Put the sled on a lift and take the bolts out of the two heim joints. Skis are off the sled.
Now take a 4 foot level and clamp it across the front of the ski saddles. This makes everything perfectly straight. Now straighten the handle bars the way that you did it by either eyeballing or measuring form the end of the bars to the same point on the sled. Now adjust the heim joints so the bolts go through the holes in the steering arms with no pull. The theory is that you get everything straight with the front end hanging and then as weight is applied to the front end the skis toe out accordingly. I've done this on my SX, my Viper and my Apex and it works pretty good. This only works if you want toe out with the sled in its normal riding position. If you want them straight (for sno trackers) then you have to adjust the skis with the front end of the sled on the ground.
Now take a 4 foot level and clamp it across the front of the ski saddles. This makes everything perfectly straight. Now straighten the handle bars the way that you did it by either eyeballing or measuring form the end of the bars to the same point on the sled. Now adjust the heim joints so the bolts go through the holes in the steering arms with no pull. The theory is that you get everything straight with the front end hanging and then as weight is applied to the front end the skis toe out accordingly. I've done this on my SX, my Viper and my Apex and it works pretty good. This only works if you want toe out with the sled in its normal riding position. If you want them straight (for sno trackers) then you have to adjust the skis with the front end of the sled on the ground.
4strokeluvr111
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stook said:You will have to adjust the rod from your handle bar shaft down to the tie rods. Use a crow foot socket with an extension to get at the bottom jam nut.
Do you mean the tie rod/heim joint at the very bottom of the HBar shaft?
Redbeard
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I had the same exact problem when I brought my Apex home brand new in January of this year; handlebars were turned to the right. Just a few weeks ago, I decided to tackle the issue using a $40.00 tool that Yamaha sells. I was amazed to find that my handlebars were not out of alignment, it was the skis. Read below:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
4strokeluvr111
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northernsledder.jk said:I had the same exact problem when I brought my Apex home brand new in January of this year; handlebars were turned to the right. Just a few weeks ago, I decided to tackle the issue using a $40.00 tool that Yamaha sells. I was amazed to find that my handlebars were not out of alignment, it was the skis. Read below:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
But once the bars are straight, I do not have enough adjustment in my tie rods ends.
Redbeard
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Are you out of threads on one end of each tie rod? I had to unbolt each end of mine from the skis and turn them to get equal thread length on each end.
grizztracks
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All tie rod ends (inner, outer, left and right) should have approximately an equal number of turns. make sure they are all installed the same then adjust toe with the sled on the ground. Don't worrying about handle bar alignment until after the toe is set properly. Once the toe is set adjust the drag link (steering shaft) to properly align the bars. Sometimes people remove the outer tie rod end and spin it rather than spinning the shaft which is not the proper method and causes misalignment of the ends in the shaft. If the end is turned to far out it can become dangerous so do the alignment the correct way.
4strokeluvr111
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grizztracks said:All tie rod ends (inner, outer, left and right) should have approximately an equal number of turns. make sure they are all installed the same then adjust toe with the sled on the ground. Don't worrying about handle bar alignment until after the toe is set properly. Once the toe is set adjust the drag link (steering shaft) to properly align the bars. Sometimes people remove the outer tie rod end and spin it rather than spinning the shaft which is not the proper method and causes misalignment of the ends in the shaft. If the end is turned to far out it can become dangerous so do the alignment the correct way.
I HAVE been turning the tie rods ends and are out of adjustment (no threads left) on the RS. I have almost 3 threads now showing on the LS. To turn the entire shaft, are there not locknuts that I would have to loosen that are buried underneath the battery?
The steering shaft is the one that attaches to the steering post and runs 90 deg to the right and ends up behind the brake right?
You are saying that I only have to loosen the locknuts and turn the arm? I don't have to remove the tie rod ends?
Thanks Fran!
grizztracks
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Yes there are jam nuts on both ends and you'll need to access the inner nuts. I would turn the heim joints all the way in on both the left and right tie rods then start turning both shafts equally until you have the proper toe. The steering shaft or what I would call a drag link is the upper shaft that's in front of the fuel tank. The lower pivot shaft toward the nose of the sled is not adjustable (unless it has power steering).
4strokeluvr111
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grizztracks said:Yes there are jam nuts on both ends and you'll need to access the inner nuts. I would turn the heim joints all the way in on both the left and right tie rods then start turning both shafts equally until you have the proper toe. The steering shaft or what I would call a drag link is the upper shaft that's in front of the fuel tank. The lower pivot shaft toward the nose of the sled is not adjustable (unless it has power steering).
So on the ski end, turn the Heim joints all the way in on both sides, then turn the shafts to get the proper toe out. QUESTION = if you turn the Heim joints all the way in you won't have any adjustment to work with will you? <lite bulb maybe just went on> or you will only be adjusting them to get more toe in? (make sense?)
On the drag link, all I have to do is loosen the lock nuts and turn the shaft?
grizztracks
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If you turn both ends all the way in then you'll be at the maxium toe out. Turn both left and right shaft one full turn at a time which will shorten the tie rod bringing the skis back in. When the toe is close reduce how much you turn the shaft until you get it close. When setting the toe out on a snowmobile the actual measurement is not overly accurate. Just get it close to the setting you are trying to achieve. I run aproximatly 1/2" out but with aftermarket skis and the unavoidable slop in the steering linkage it's not an exact measurement.
4strokeluvr111
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grizztracks said:If you turn both ends all the way in then you'll be at the maxium toe out. Turn both left and right shaft one full turn at a time which will shorten the tie rod bringing the skis back in. When the toe is close reduce how much you turn the shaft until you get it close. When setting the toe out on a snowmobile the actual measurement is not overly accurate. Just get it close to the setting you are trying to achieve. I run aproximatly 1/2" out but with aftermarket skis and the unavoidable slop in the steering linkage it's not an exact measurement.
Thanks!
I'll be working on it later today! Not looking forward to tearing stuff apart AGAIN but oh well! 
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