thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
My bother and I bought curve Ski's at the Grass Drags in Fremont NH this weekend. Let me just say for the record, that Sean is a great guy, my brother and I talked his ear off. They seamed to really like 6" round carbides, but I'm a triple point fan. I went to reuse the triple points off my xtx ski's and I noticed the runner won't set inside the cut out in the bottom of the ski, and the welds that hold the threated studs onto the rod interfere with the runner seating. Does everyone run the studbuy round bars with their curves? I'm going to talk to Sean about them tomorrow, but I was thinking of cutting down the runner of the triple points to fit, and counter boring the stud holes in the ski for the welds to fit. How tight do the studboy carbides fit?






darv
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the stud boys will fit better because they use a square bar
LJ 452
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I met Nick and Sean up in Gaylord two years ago. They were doing a test ride were you could try their skis on the trails. Same deal, I think we ended up b.s.ing for an hour or two, both of them were great and it's nice to actually see and meet the people behind these products. As for the bars, we had asked them if they had tried the tripple points and I believe they couldn't get a set, stud boy stepped up and produced an 08' Nytro specific bar. This is all from two years ago so who knows now. I would think cutting down the bar would be fine, as for c-boring the holes, shouldn't hurt as long as you don't remove too much material. I would maybe take a small grinder to the bar and remove some of the extra martial from there as well.
Studboy has a round bar as well, but the square bars do fit Beyer as they sit flat on the ski. Nothing more than cosmetic, and considering it's the bottom of the ski...
Studboy has a round bar as well, but the square bars do fit Beyer as they sit flat on the ski. Nothing more than cosmetic, and considering it's the bottom of the ski...
SpecRTX
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Couldn't agree with you more about the guys at Curve Industries. First class. As far as the runners go, I would go with whatever they recommend for your sled. I have a Nytro and they strongly recommend a 4 inch round bar (not shaper). 4 inch seems a bit small, but they tested with larger and different style carbides. They would know what works best.
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
LJ 452 said:I met Nick and Sean up in Gaylord two years ago. They were doing a test ride were you could try their skis on the trails. Same deal, I think we ended up b.s.ing for an hour or two, both of them were great and it's nice to actually see and meet the people behind these products. As for the bars, we had asked them if they had tried the tripple points and I believe they couldn't get a set, stud boy stepped up and produced an 08' Nytro specific bar. This is all from two years ago so who knows now. I would think cutting down the bar would be fine, as for c-boring the holes, shouldn't hurt as long as you don't remove too much material. I would maybe take a small grinder to the bar and remove some of the extra martial from there as well.
Studboy has a round bar as well, but the square bars do fit Beyer as they sit flat on the ski. Nothing more than cosmetic, and considering it's the bottom of the ski...
Scott sends the ski savers with all his triple points, and I'm wondering if that is to allow the runners to fit on ski's without the weld having the same issues as I have. I would think ski savers would mess with the skis design on the curves more so than other ski's.
jedwards89
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I would run what they suggest. I orgianally went with a 6" shaper and man does it bite. Going to the 6" round this season. I think the triple poins may be a little too much. Try the ski out and go from there. You will not believe the difference they make. Good luck with them .
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
What do you mean by bite? I'm just not used to the small carbide is enough philosophy that curve has. On my xtx ski's I used 8" triple points and the thing steers like a semi w/o power steering, but man does it bite.

Curve Industries
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Thank you all for the great support! I have to say that meeting all of you has been nothing short of a great experience. You are all so passionate about the sport and have trusted us to deliver the best experience possible - it is an honor!
If you want to try those Berg bars, you'll need to modify both the ski and the bar. We've never tried them so I could not provide any direct mounting or setup advice. Having said that, we have customers who run them and are very happy.
1) do not install the savers
2) do not counter bore the ski with a drill bit. You will suck right through and significantly reduce the wearbar nut bearing area on the top side of the ski.
3) use a straight flute chamfer tool if you can to open the holes a bit. You may try to grind the welds on the bar but they are there for a reason... I would recommend against it if possible.
4) trim the front and back of the bar where overhang exists but make sure you put the same wedge back on each end that they originally came with.
Follow these steps and you should be ok!
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.GoProSchools.com
If you want to try those Berg bars, you'll need to modify both the ski and the bar. We've never tried them so I could not provide any direct mounting or setup advice. Having said that, we have customers who run them and are very happy.
1) do not install the savers
2) do not counter bore the ski with a drill bit. You will suck right through and significantly reduce the wearbar nut bearing area on the top side of the ski.
3) use a straight flute chamfer tool if you can to open the holes a bit. You may try to grind the welds on the bar but they are there for a reason... I would recommend against it if possible.
4) trim the front and back of the bar where overhang exists but make sure you put the same wedge back on each end that they originally came with.
Follow these steps and you should be ok!
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.GoProSchools.com
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The more I think about it, I don't want to modify the berstroms because they are 8" and probably are too much for the curve ski's. I want to keep them for the xtx ski's as a package.
I want to give the curves the best shot when I try them this winter so maybe the thing to do is to run what you suggested I run. This would give them the best chance I can against my xtx skis.
On your carbide selection guide I noticed the less rider forward the more aggressive the carbide. Ex t he older delta box chassis you suggest 6" round or 6" shaper vs the delta box II and fx chassis you only suggest 6" round. Is this because steering effort goes up too much/because it darts more?
What I did love about my xtx skis is coming into a corner at slower speeds (30ish mph) I could get it to oversteer and swing the backend right around. I much prefer oversteer as opposed to push/understeer. I'm hoping the cobra track helps me lose more understeer vs the ripsaw track.
I want to give the curves the best shot when I try them this winter so maybe the thing to do is to run what you suggested I run. This would give them the best chance I can against my xtx skis.
On your carbide selection guide I noticed the less rider forward the more aggressive the carbide. Ex t he older delta box chassis you suggest 6" round or 6" shaper vs the delta box II and fx chassis you only suggest 6" round. Is this because steering effort goes up too much/because it darts more?
What I did love about my xtx skis is coming into a corner at slower speeds (30ish mph) I could get it to oversteer and swing the backend right around. I much prefer oversteer as opposed to push/understeer. I'm hoping the cobra track helps me lose more understeer vs the ripsaw track.

Curve Industries
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The 6" round is a solid bet for your Nytro XTX and your new Curve XS skis. Even if you modified for the Bergstroms, you would still be ok to keep them for your C&A XTX's as well.
With Curve skis, the more rider forward a machine is, the less bar is required due to our compression profiling. It doesn't have to do with darting as much as steering effort and overall control. Why run a 6" round on a 121" Nytro when the 4" works great... Our skis respond very well to carbide changes. From our experience working the bugs out of the '08 Nytro, you can run a shaper with no carbide or a round with 4" of carbide and see the same results on anything but ice.
Our 6" round recommendation will give a nice balanced feel, not too much bite, lighter steering and that benchmark predictability you come to expect from our skis.
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.GoProSchools.com
With Curve skis, the more rider forward a machine is, the less bar is required due to our compression profiling. It doesn't have to do with darting as much as steering effort and overall control. Why run a 6" round on a 121" Nytro when the 4" works great... Our skis respond very well to carbide changes. From our experience working the bugs out of the '08 Nytro, you can run a shaper with no carbide or a round with 4" of carbide and see the same results on anything but ice.
Our 6" round recommendation will give a nice balanced feel, not too much bite, lighter steering and that benchmark predictability you come to expect from our skis.
- Sean
www.CurveIndustries.com
www.GoProSchools.com
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