Curves vs 6.9 Pilots on the XTX?

[IFlyEm]

Anyone have chance to compare these 2 skis? I have Curves and like them for the most part. But they can get pretty darty at speed and steer like a dump truck less than 30 mph.

I talked to Curve Industries and they provide awesome customer support. Howeve,r they told me that I should buy a $100 Leading Edge adapter. Well frankly I've already spent $600 on these skis and don't feel like spending another $100. $700 for skis is way too much in my mind.

Anyway, has anyone had a chance to see how the 6.9's work compared to the Curves?

Thanks!

 

[Tarzan]

What about SLYDOG skiis on xtx ??
They look aweysome!!

 

[LJ 452]

I've got Curves with 7.5 Shaper bars on my S.E. with a 128", far from a 144" but not quite a 121" either. I can steer it with one hand standing up at 10 MPH or more. Standing still it takes a bit more but, nothing compared to my Apex I had. It seems there is a major difference between the shorty's and the XTX's in the steering department. I've read quite a few posts on XTX owners complaining about steering effort. I'm curious to see what the balance front to rear is between the two. What is your front strap set to, front spring preload? What I learned with mine is that I had to just trust it to do what I was asking, in other words. I was used to my Apex were input was given and feedback given back it was one for one. Unfortunately that resulted in a ton of steering effort. With this sled I had to just turn the bars and expect it to do what I wanted. If you've ridden a new Cat you should be able to relate. The first time I rode one I thought there is no way this thing is going to actually turn when I turn the bars, the effort was so light it. I have made adjustments and I'm getting closer to the best of both input and output. Of course my ball joints toasted and that pretty much ended the adjusting phase mid last year. By the way it never darted until the ball joints were gone.

I would look to adjusting the rear to find a better balance. I think when Yam improved the approach angle they disturbed the balance, just not sure how to get it back. That may be why the dual rate springs are a hit with the center shock, it allows you to run more preload with less harshness. Obviously changing skis will have either a positive or negative effect but as with most mods, your going to give up something in return.

 

[Turk]

I have tried 5 different skiis on my xtx & shortie fx & nothing out there makes it easier to turn at slow speeds.
The best one i have used so far is the usi vx 301,s.
The worst was C & A XTX.
Modded stock skiis were not too bad either.

 

[IFlyEm]

Thanks for all the input! I am not sure what my suspension is currently at. Its pretty much stock. I haven't screwed with that a whole lot. Seems that people want a lot of transfer to ease the steering but I'm not sure that I want to loose steering ability.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....what to do...lol

 

[Curve Industries]

IFlyEm, let's get your season started off on the right foot! I'm glad you are already in the correct frame of mind to do so - thinking about snowmobiling that is...

I'd like to make it clear that we would ONLY recommend the Leading Edge as a solution if you were not willing to make suspension changes. The reality is in fact that if you want your Nytro to ride, turn and respond better than the factory setup, you'll need to work for it. Purchasing our skis was without a doubt the perfect beginning but you're only half done. As LJ highlighted, the Nytro chassis is a careful balance between ski pressure and transfer. Get it set right for your weight and style and you'll be the happiest rider on the snow, forgo the necessary adjustments and you'll fight darting, heavy steering and other adverse handling traits.

Pre Modification Checks:
- Ensure your front end is COMPLETELY tight... no slop as LJ discussed... upper and lower ball joints, tie rods, a-arm bushings.
- Toe adjustment should be 3/8" to 5/16" total TOE OUT - that is 3/16 to 5/32 per ski.
- Spindle rubber wear... ensure when you lift the front of your sled off the shop floor that the skis do not droop. If they do, add shims under the back of the rubber or replace the rubber.

No Money Required:
- Rear skid transfer nut all the way out. Move in one click at a time until you find some happiness (this tunes your transfer).
- Front shock on the rear arm leave loose with little to no preload
- Lower the front ride height

Spending Money www.HygearSuspsension.com :
- Rear shock spacer can be added from Hygear Suspension (requires rework)
- Tripple rate springs on the front also from Hygear

The combination of our skis, a bit of tuning and possibly some Hygear upgrades will leave you desiring nothing and only enjoying your machine during the few precious months we have to ride.

- Sean

www.CurveIndustries.com
www.GoProSchools.com

 

[IFlyEm]

Sean,

As always outstanding customer service! I will try everything you have said and see where it gets me. To be quite honest I don't think it's an issue with the skis per se. I think its just the nature of the sled. I was just thinking that maybe it would be better suited for a less aggressive ski. If I can't get it dialed in where I want I will probably be spring ordering a 800 E-Tec Backcountry X in the spring.

But again, thanks for the outstanding customer support!

 

[Curve Industries]

I KNOW you can achieve perfection with your XTX and the Curves IFlyEm, it just takes some time and for the Nytro - quite a bit of patience too.

Be sure to record all those adjustments and settings as you make the changes.

We are here for you - lets get this thing dialed!

- Sean

www.CurveIndustries.com
www.GoProSchools.com

 

[Super Sled]

I KNOW you can achieve perfection with your XTX and the Curves IFlyEm, it just takes some time and for the Nytro - quite a bit of patience too.

Be sure to record all those adjustments and settings as you make the changes.

We are here for you - lets get this thing dialed!

- Sean

www.CurveIndustries.com
www.GoProSchools.com

This is true! For some reason it seems like Yammi's need a bit more fine tunning than other manufacturers to get dialed in right. But once you do get them dialed, they are completely golden.


As much as it is painful to think about at first, it takes tinkering and confidence, but aside from that, most adjustments are small and actually pretty easy. Once you get your sled dialed in, I swear you'l like it better than other manufacturers. But out of the box they don't come one size fits all.


One way to get started is just like Sean from Curves said: start on one side of the spectrum of skid performance and start from there. If you most trail ride, nail down your transfer so there is no transfer and try it. Suck in your straps and set your transfer rod to no transfer. Then go riding/ try it out. Even try to bring some tools with you out on the trail so you can make minor adjustments on trail.


Once/ if you establish you want some transfer, start by making small, incremental changes 1 notch or hole at a time. Heck, I'm still tinkering with my Attak's transfer rod (not much though) and I just can't decide whether I want my limiter strap at 2nd hole from minimal transfer or in the middle. And now I just switched to a flatter ski (to Simmons Gen 1's with no keel from Mountain skis with a 2" keel) I'm sure the mannerisms will be changed a bit.






Mike

 

[Eagle1]

IFlyEm- Just curious, did you ever give the stock skis a try? Just wonder how your sled handled with those. I can see how a bad set up can be made worse by adding agressive skis.
Maybe start over with the stockers get the best handling you can then add the skis, just an idea.

 

[IFlyEm]

I sold the stockers. I wanted a wider ski for off trail riding. Never did try them. I should have.