Detailed Hyfax Fix

[Rayman5271]

After countless hours researching the topic; here is the plethora of information I found... all put into one source. After testing this setup, I have virtually no wear anywhere on new slides, and have seen an increase of speed. (+4-6mph). Giving most of us seeking performance another reason to upgrade.

Below you will find part #'s/prices/pics of the idler wheel modification I did on my 09 NYTRO RTX SE. This will work on all models.

The FX Nytro like most newer model yamaha sleds are prone to Hyfax "slider" wear. Some will argue the point, but for all but the lucky few... our sliders are generally chewed up in 500-1500 miles even with good snow conditions. With this fix there will be no more burning the slides to the wear lines and hoping it stops there, wearing your track and losing clips, or having to spend the money to add weight and clip your track.

Also, since this fix I have driven with minimal snow conditions down plowed roads and plowed ice tracks with no slide wear or burning. It’s pretty amazing and simple if you get the parts and materials in order.

Here is the fix.

135 mm Wheels w/ 6205 bearings:
They are 5mm larger than stock, allowing the wheels/rails to share some of the weight yamaha has engineered to sit on the skid. (2.5 mm more) The bearings are wider than stock, and no... there are no 135mm idlers with stock bearings. I have called aftermarket idler wheel producers/suppliers and there is no such bird. There is a concern of cracking the rails because of the larger wheel, but I believe that if any wheel takes the right hit, it will crack the rail. With that being said, this has been tested and tried and to date, seems to be the fix.

*note: The Kimpex Pro Idlers can be purchased for less $$ but the quality of the wheel isn't that great IMO. The width of the wheel rubber is also a concern. If purchasing PRO idlers... DO NOT MOUNT INSIDE THE RAIL. The width of the rubber is too wide.

Skidoo 2/Bolt Mounts and accessories:
These mounts fit right onto the yamaha skid with minimal machining. They are made for the 6205 bearing of the larger 135mm wheel and will need no spacers.

Pre-load adjustment:
Adjust the front pre-load of the skid to 3 turns from the bottom by loosening the lock nut with a large screw driver/rubber mallet, then loosen the adjusting nut and then re-tighten the lock nut back up snug.

Stopper Band Adjustment:
The stopper bands are the 2 front straps under your skid. Adjust the straps to the 2nd or 3rd hole to suck up the front of the skid. You can easily do this by putting some weight on the back of the sled so the bands will sag. Remove and move the bolts and nuts to the desired location. This is critical for solving the wear at the front bend.

What I Did:
At first, I used the existing 4 front mounts, and added two new mounts/wheels towards the rear of the skid. I choose to use the stock mounts in the front because the idler springs are attached to the outside mounts and a gas shock line holder to the inner. These mounts should be fine to use the stock mounts because they are so close together, and the front outer mounts are threaded into a plate.

**Update** I replaced the two inner mounts with the skidoo 2 bolts as well because my machine shop took too much off one of the inside mounts, making that wheel take a beating from the inner lugs, this also beat the rails pretty hard. If the rails were ever going to crack or bend due to a larger wheel... they would have then. Needless to say, the only stock mounts left on my sled are the front outers.

Part #'s/Cost Part # MSRP
135mm Kimpex Polaris Idlers
Blue 04-0531-22 $29.99
Black 04-0531-20
Red 04-0531-25

Skidoo 2/Bolt Mounts and accessories (Per wheel install)
(1) Mount: 503 190 389 $7.68
(1) Long Bolt: 207 088 544 Change
(1) Short Bolt 207 182 544 change
(2) Nylock Nuts 233 281 414 change
(1) Washer 503 183 100 change

Stainless steel washers (For filling the space when using stock mounts.) Pick up at local hardware store. STAINLESS!
10 stainless steel washers... make sure they are close to the same width as the stock idler bolt. You may not need all ten. If you don’t mind purchasing extra parts… I would purchase a few extra nuts/bolts/washers of all the parts needed. It will save you a trip if you need them and also would be nice to keep on the sled if something happens on the trail along with one of your stock idlers.

Steps:

If your going to use the stock mounts at the inner location start here. If not skip to (2).
1) Machine inner mounts: Take to a local machine shop found in the yellow pages. Costs about $25, or take it to your local community college and they will do the work for free.
****(Be very clear what you need done. Hopefully they do better than mine did. )

If you want the color to face out, machine 1.3mm off the shoulder of the mount.

If you want the color to face in, take off 1.7 mm off the shoulder of the mount.

* Make sure you also have the pit of the shoulder taken down the same amount.
** Measurements for Kimpex Polaris Idlers only!
*** Please measure your wheels for yourself, as their may be differences in tolerances.

2) For the skidoo mounts you could easily use a grinder, but if your taking parts to the machinist, might as well have them hit these as well. Grind the existing notch down to the edge. This allows the mount to sit flat against the skid.

*** If using skidoo mounts on the inners no machining of the shoulder is necessary, but grinding the cut out larger is required for all skidoo mounts. They fit perfect and the idler will line up perfect.

Place the skidoo mounts onto the skid and center punch and drill the new bottom hole.

*Make sure you are replacing these in the exact location as the stock ones... if your adding wheels, make sure when the skid is compressed it doesn't conflict with the compressed suspension.

3) Using the skidoo 2 bolt mounts, use purchased skidoo parts to mount the wheels.

If using the existing stock mounts, you will notice because of the larger bearing there will be a gap between your mount and your back retaining washer. Use the stainless steel washers to fill this space in. If you don’t follow this step, the retaining washer will bend in and your wheel will loosen and may cause damage to your skid.

4) Your finished! If you have purchased all of the parts and have had the machining done, this project shouldn’t take more than 45 minutes. It's locating all the right parts that takes the time, hopefully this tutorial has cleared some things up and saved you all numerous trips to the hardware store. Good luck and happy trails. Feel free to email me any questions.

Sorry bout the snow in the track, I lost the original pics. This just gives you an idea what it looks like with an added set of idlers and the quality of the kimpex polaris idlers.

My cost: (29.99x6)+(7.68x2)+(7x2)=$209-25% off=$157... for a skid with larger, cheaper replaceable bearings and no more hyfax headaches.


Also for those chasing the handling of the sled, I am about 200lbs with gear. I am running Simmons flexi skis and am running dual carbides. I am now happy with the handling of this sled, with this skid setup: There is no darting or forward push.
-Front stopper band pulled up to the 2nd hole
-Rear stoppers stock position
-Front skid preload adjusted 3 turns from bottom
-Idler springs adjusted to Heavy (medium if trails are rough) Back to heavy when she packs with snow.
*** Update: Also running track 2" @30ftlbs


I am still dealing with some inside ski lift and stiff steering because of my aggressive ski setup, but after re-learning to ride the sled, you will find that you can get into the corners wider/slower, and get back on the throttle sooner and you will find yourself in control with minimal steering effort and also find yourself way out in front of those two strokers.

I find I actually like driving the sled this way and feel like I'm in more control with this sled than any sled in the past, not to mention I feel better about meeting another crazy in the corners.

-Ray

 

[woolyviper]

i put 5.35's on my phazer and the wear goes down to an 1/8 from the wear line and stops - better than it was.

 

[Rayman5271]

I haven't had any wear in over 1000 miles... I did harden my slides with a heat gun prior to installing. If this keeps up I wont be replacing these slides ever again. Unreal...

 

[enticeraised]

Nice, will have to try

 

[Grimm]

Great job Rayman, I hope all newbies who question their slider wear will be directed to your thread.

Regarding your inside ski lift problem, I'd suggest trying this: move the swaybar mount to the forward bolt hole on the lower A arms. I tried it this weekend and I found it to help in the corners as it helps reduce body roll.

 

[sleddingfarmer]

awesome job rayman! Only wear I have on mine is at the front bend, but I dont have my limiter straps up as far as I probably should. Thats with 135mm wheels.

I bought the adjustable coupler blocks from ulmer racing and it made a huge difference with inside ski lift and how well it cornered. I used them on the 3rd setting, didnt' see any need to try the 4th. I recommend them to anyone who wants flatter cornering.

 

[sherlock29]

Hey guys.... this tread is being talked about in the apex forum for the RTX sleds...(vurtually same skid)

So one question..... Need detailed clarity on what needs to be done for the 2 inner wheels for front shock mount....

thanks... jason

 

[Rayman5271]

I would skip the hassle of machining... put the skidoo 2 bolts on the inners as well. No machining, and the wheel rides where it needs to be. Ill post more pics tomo.

 

[Stubbs]

You cannot use the ski-doo mounts on the inner front idlers on the "ck" skid as they are part of the front shock/w-arm linkage mount.....machine the two collars for the wider 6205 bearings.

 

[Rayman5271]

Just to clarify things... the SE can use skidoo mounts on the front inners, you just have to be creative with the mount holding the rear shock line. To my knowledge the fx nytro base does not have any attachments to the front inners so replacing them will be no problem. The above post is a reply for a mono skid on an apex.

 

[enticeraised]

Is your limiter strap adjustment from the top or the bottom? Second or third from bottom or top?

 

[Rayman5271]

Im running 2nd from the bottom.

 

[SNOW4U]

Have a question on where to get wheels, numbers don,t match up in dennis kirk or other mags. that I have. Any help, Thanks.

 

[cawcislo]

To summarize. We're only adding an additional 2 wheels? And replaced 4 original wheels with larger diameter ones? Correct?

 

[170plus]

none of the other 3 manufacturers idler wheels hang down below the rails as far as the yamaha with the bigger skidoo wheels and they never have problems with the sliders ,i have a 97 mach1 with 5000 miles on the sliders,my buddies drive polaris sleds of all sorts and no slider issues,i have very little slider issues because i live where i dont have to ride in bad conditions when i dont want to but i ha ve been on a trip and run into no lube conditions and burn down fast,gotta be a better solution than us riders rethinking the wheel for this big company huh