Doo suspension swap

Hey Jake!

Thanks for the info!
Really didn't find the exact measurements I need yet.
When you get a chance to measure yours, please post them.

Thanks!!!
 
Thanks to Jake, found a Doo Guru on Dootalk that knows alot! :-o

This is what I have found out so far.
On the SC10 1 and 2 skid, The distance between the front and rear mounting points is 24 and 3/4".

On the SC10 3 the mounting distance is 24" to 24 1/8"

All the SC10 skids are the same within each model, the only difference is the shocks. For example, an X model only has different shocks.

The SC10 3 has an early model and a late model.
You can tell the difference by the front mount.
The early model has a straight shaft mount.
The later model has mounting ears at the front.
These mounting ears are usually removed and replaced with the shaft from an earlier model to use the later skid.

Still need the distance down from the tunnel for each mount and back from the driveshaft.
 
<<<Still need the distance down from the tunnel for each mount and back from the driveshaft.>>>

That's not too hard to get around if you're feeling adventuresome. I started doing them this way and have avoided a lot of mistakes made in the past using donor sled dimensions. Do a trial fit with the suspension in place. Insert the suspension and track in place and set it all upright on the floor. Block the front and rear of the sled where you want them when done (recommend OEM height-works best). Don't forget/ignore the front ride height or you'll end up with the front of the skid mounted too high. Front arm should be close as is (w/limiter straps all the way out), rear needs to be pulled as far forward as possible with the springs installed - confirm with center to center from above (24" and some).

Now you get to the point you don't have yet. where does it all go front to rear? That's the spec you need (from driveshaft to front mounting point). Add that to the above and you have it. FWIW
 
I will get the numbers for you guys in the am just got home from work working late replacing sewer pipes 20+ feet below ground. For the economy going down the drain I have seen more than my fair share of it.
 
PLEASE KEEP THIS IN MIND the measurements I have here are from a SC10-1. The heat exchanger is mounted on top of the tunnel so they might be off a little.


Top down on front mount is 5"

Top down on rear mount is 6 1/2"

If you need anything else let me know
 
Thanks to aja636 I used his diagram hopes helps if you need anything please let me know.


PLEASE NOTE that this is for a 136"

This might be something good for the Aftermarket Suspensions section
 

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For those of you running the ZX2 plastic suspension, how are they holding up? I know "on paper" they're stronger than a conventional metal one, but it's one of those things I won't believe in until it's been out for a while and proven itself. Our school's SAE Snowmobile team bought a ZX2 to drop into a Polaris Classic, since that thing's skid sucks twice as hard as mine. You sit on the sled, it drops like 6 inches.

I'd love to get a better rear skid, but shelling out well over $1000 right now is a bit much (poor college student). Considering I replaced the W-arm after that broke last year, it should be good for a while now.
 
Your W arm will break again, should probably reinforce it now while its one piece yet! lol

I had to add alot of weight to mine to make it strong.

That's why I am putting the doo suspension in, less weight, stronger, and better suspension.
(Without spending $1000 on the ZX2)

Am currently thinking leave the skid a 121" and set the skid back 7-1/2". Had anyone done this here?
If so, how has it worked out?

Also thinking change to a Predator track, want better deep snow performance and like the idea of a bit less corner traction on the trail.
I have too much traction in the corners now.
Will stud anyway, so it isn't likely to change the cornering a great deal, I believe.
What have been anyones experience with the Predator track?
 
I've heard a lot of good things about the Predator track, most that it offers better powder performance over the stock ripsaw.

I'd lose the studs and use that clearance to get the tallest lug that will fit. Seen too many toasted sleds and one big ruined weekend because a stud tossed out and right into the heat exchanger. The temp light won't come on since there's no fluid in the system, so by the time you notice anything it's too late. Or go for one of the molded pre-studded ones if you're worried about bare ice traction.

I actually have ridden two identical sleds, one with and one without sleds, they were Doo Formula 583's. Both stock track. The only notable difference was that the studded one had a bit less trackspin if you nailed it on hardpack. On bare ice, the studded sled actually seemed worse, the studs were 1 season old are already dull as spoons.

I don't get why people stud. Unless you're doing ice drags, there is no need for it. A 2" paddle will take you ANYWHERE you want to go.
 
Thanks for the input on the track! :)

I have run the same sleds both without and with studs.
Can't beat the stopping ability, there is no comparison on an icy corner.
Rubber on ice works with the same physics as in your car.

Believe me, if there was no advantage I would toss them out in a heartbeat just to save the weight! lol
I cringe at the weight of the bag every time I have added them.

As far as dulling and tossing them, my experience is that the gold series dont wear fast at all and haven't broken one in over 9000 miles.
And I'm not exactly easy on them. lol

EDIT: The gold series DO break! Easily!
It is the Stainless Signature series that you want!

See pics & more info here.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698


However at this point, studding isn't my question.
The predator track and doo skid is. Looking forward to input from you guys on it. :Rockon:
 
On your doo suspension, i would recommend running a good rear gas shock that is charged a tad stiffer to make up for the weight difference, also, you can run your springs softer and ride more on the shock. It took me some tuning, but you will REALLY like it when your done! Also leave the limiter straps long, there is a ton of weigh on the front of the sled, if you leave them short you will have to much ski pressure. Good luck, sorry i could not give you any measurements, I had a 136 doo renegade I used for mine, not a 121'
 
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