Dreaded Chain Case Crack Got Me!

[Bigblue1]

As if it the short season wasn't bad enough, I got dinged by the fatal flex crack that seems to be happening to those that have logged over 9,000 miles. I have been lucky with some due diligence as well. Keep bearings greased, constantly check chain case and drive shaft each year for wear and tear. Have been using BOP saver all this time also. But, I didn't listen to the small voice this year when my chain case leaked and I could not stop it without reinstalling three times before it held oil. I though it was the way I was installing gasket. Even added Permatex etc. Didn't see a crack at all. Must have just started.

So, first trip seemed good. Ran 400 miles no issues save a small drip, which happens so I thought nothing of it. I even put a pan underneath in my garage after I got home and no significant leak. Second trip the dreaded drive shaft noise while powering up a hill, or so I thought. There was no harsh chain crunch. I was able to drive easy without issue to our destination 80+ miles out. On the way back no to so much. Though it was going to be have the guys get the truck drive around and five hours later be back. But, I chanced it and was able to make back at between 20 -35 mph steadily all the way back only to be towed in the last 7 miles. End result oil leaked out. Chain took most of the beating but stayed together fortunately.

So, looks like a full drive system redo. New track also to be safe. Suspension and Kashima shocks are in great shape. All in I'm at a little over $2,000 with all new parts, track and studs so I should be good for another 10,000 miles. I'm really loving the new SRX with adjustable riser, but after accessories, tune, studs, skis etc it will be like $23,000 plus! At an average 1,500 - 1,800 miles per year including COVID year, can't justify, unless I have a fire sale and get rid of all my current sleds. Not easy in this economic climate. I like my 129" RTX LE. Other than no Power Steering and Auto adjust suspension it has all the good stuff. SO, those that have put on big miles check that lower left corner of the case or its bound to get you.

 

[NYTurbo]

Yep starting to see this more and more on the higher mileage sleds.

 

[Clintww]

Other than losing reverse, I would think about going to the belt drive system. I don't remember the cost though.

 

[Richard Hodgins]

Other than losing reverse, I would think about going to the belt drive system. I don't remember the cost though.

Been there, done that (CK3 Belt drive conversion $2k). Blew a belt in less than 1000 miles and sold the whole kit after. It's not reliable for trail riding....chaincase is the only thing that can handle the abuse.

 

[ksiesel]

If you're already looking at adding $2k to a sled you like and concerned about still not having EPS, you could add another $1500 and have that too. It'd still be WAY cheaper than a new one and it'd feel like a brand new machine next season.

 

[DennyTuna]

Yep, it's going to happen sooner or later. Here's an option for all, my nephew used JB weld on his case 3 seasons ago and it's still holding strong. That same year I replaced mine with a new one and now I wished I had just done the JB weld too; I know what I'll be doing if it starts cracking next time. Plus, it's worth having in one's bag on long trips.

 

[Bigblue1]

If you're already looking at adding $2k to a sled you like and concerned about still not having EPS, you could add another $1500 and have that too. It'd still be WAY cheaper than a new one and it'd feel like a brand new machine next season.

Excellent! Yes you know the feeling when you have your sled dialed in perfect. That's where I'm at so why start all over again. Those QS3R shocks re so damn good whats the big deal to get off and change. MOst of the time I set for the condition that day and may make one change if at all if temps fall or climb rapidly.

 

[NYTurbo]

If you're already looking at adding $2k to a sled you like and concerned about still not having EPS, you could add another $1500 and have that too. It'd still be WAY cheaper than a new one and it'd feel like a brand new machine next season.

Only $1500 for EPS ?

 

[Richard Hodgins]

Only $1500 for EPS ?

Thats what I paid for factory OEM EPS ($1100 USD)...there's a thread here on what parts to order. I installed it on my 2019 .

 

[DennyTuna]

Only $1500 for EPS ?

Less, parts are around 1200

 

[NYTurbo]

Thought it would be more than that from OEM

 

[KnappAttack]

First I've seen of this "dreaded crack".

Is it there because of bottoming out of the chaincase and "casing it" on bumps or something? Or is it from high speed and constant vibration? I see no other reason for a crack in that area myself.

 

[Hammer70]

Yep starting to see this more and more on the higher mileage sleds.

same here when my dealer stocks them that’s gotta tell you something lol.

 

[Fast]

As if it the short season wasn't bad enough, I got dinged by the fatal flex crack that seems to be happening to those that have logged over 9,000 miles. I have been lucky with some due diligence as well. Keep bearings greased, constantly check chain case and drive shaft each year for wear and tear. Have been using BOP saver all this time also. But, I didn't listen to the small voice this year when my chain case leaked and I could not stop it without reinstalling three times before it held oil. I though it was the way I was installing gasket. Even added Permatex etc. Didn't see a crack at all. Must have just started.

So, first trip seemed good. Ran 400 miles no issues save a small drip, which happens so I thought nothing of it. I even put a pan underneath in my garage after I got home and no significant leak. Second trip the dreaded drive shaft noise while powering up a hill, or so I thought. There was no harsh chain crunch. I was able to drive easy without issue to our destination 80+ miles out. On the way back no to so much. Though it was going to be have the guys get the truck drive around and five hours later be back. But, I chanced it and was able to make back at between 20 -35 mph steadily all the way back only to be towed in the last 7 miles. End result oil leaked out. Chain took most of the beating but stayed together fortunately.

So, looks like a full drive system redo. New track also to be safe. Suspension and Kashima shocks are in great shape. All in I'm at a little over $2,000 with all new parts, track and studs so I should be good for another 10,000 miles. I'm really loving the new SRX with adjustable riser, but after accessories, tune, studs, skis etc it will be like $23,000 plus! At an average 1,500 - 1,800 miles per year including COVID year, can't justify, unless I have a fire sale and get rid of all my current sleds. Not easy in this economic climate. I like my 129" RTX LE. Other than no Power Steering and Auto adjust suspension it has all the good stuff. SO, those that have put on big miles check that lower left corner of the case or its bound to get you.

This is the first i heard of this, why do the gears look so dry? what kind of oil are you using?

 

[74Nitro]

I had a 2017 come through this year with a crack in this area.