SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Dynarex (Dean) showed up bright and early and we connected his sled to the dyno. After a reasonably thorough warmup, we made 2 warmup runs to get the engine heatsoaked. The first 2 runs were with the ECP Air Kit installed and the crankcase vent simply vented to atmosphere. With these known good runs to use as a baseline, we then connected the plumbed lines that Dean already had set up from the crankcase vent to the air filters. Dynorun .003 proved that this modification is definately worth doing! The result was even yet a quicker gain to peak than without the evac. Below 4000 RPM there was a rather big gain but no one runs there. This does however prove that the evac is doing something good. From 4000 to 5000 RPM's there is only a little gain but from 5000 up there is a very good gain. 5500 RPM's we went from 67.8 foot pounds of torque to 71.1. The torque line on the graph pretty much paralells the line without the evac but is just higher up in numbers. It follows exactly the same format and line shape. 6500 RPM's we went from 79.6 to 81.3 foot pounds, 7500 RPM's we went from 79.7 to 81.5 foot pounds, 8500 RPM's we went from 79.0 to 79.8, 9500 RPM's we went from 74.9 to 75.0 foot pounds. From 9500 RPM's and up to rev limiter, there was no considerable gain with very minor improvements in some areas of the RPM curve past 9500. From 9500 RPM's to rev limit, there was an average gain of 1.0 HP. This really isn't too bad considering we are trying to improve on what is already to be considered a well tuned engine and air kit. The biggest gains we realized were from 5000 to 9400 RPM's. Despite the gain at peak this will still result in a higher MPH because you basically get to whatever peak you have sooner in the run resulting in being at peak power for a longer duration of time for the run. Your elapsed time will drop dramatically with this mod. This is where the most gain would be experienced. Dean claimed he saw a 3-4 MPH increase with this in field testing and it makes sense in that the engine makes power quicker with a slight HP gain at peak.
On the next run, we tested the Raptor air filters versus the ECP filters and with no disrespect intended, there was no comparison. I have a few folks out there testing both filters and their verbal description looks exactly like the graph results. At 4400 RPM's the Raptor K&N air filters make 10 foot pounds less torque than the ECP filters! This is comparing both filters without the crankcase evac connected...in other words, both filters tested were for the filters with no other outside influences. Just a filter to filter comparison. The Raptor filters eventually make the same peak torque but it takes too long to make it.Then at 8000 RPM's the Raptor filters have a "droop" in the torque curve reminiscent of the stock air box but not quite as bad. The ECP air filters power right through this area with no "droop". From 8600 RPM's to 9200 RPM's the 2 filters are about even and then the Raptor Filters begin to fail miserably from 9300 RPM's to the rev limiter with a massive torque drop throught that RPM range. The Raptor filters do try to gain back the loss but wayyy up at top RPM's and just before the rev limiter and dangerously close to the rev limiter. The ECP filters have 5 more HP at peak than the Raptor filters.
Next, we reconnected the evac , reinstalled the ECP filters and tried the Iridium spark plugs. (CR9EIX) There was no comparison. The CR10EK sparkplugs crushed the CR9EIX sparkplugs. There was a power loss everywhere with the CR9EIX plugs.
Next we set the sled back up with the CR10EK sparkplugs and wanted to see if dynorun .003, which was the best run until then could be replicated. We did replicate the power almost identically. If anything there was slightly more power at peak by the last dynorun (.007) but the gain was very minimal. So we did successfully repeat the power attained earlier and backed it up twice.
This is cheap horsepower guys and is worth doing this mod. It makes an already GREAT kit even better. I will be able to supply the parts to make these kits in the near future or Dynarex is also going to post here on what is needed to accomplish this in the way of parts. It is a "simple to do" mod with items that can easily be purchased at any auto parts supplier.
You all need to thank Dynarex for taking the initiative to get this done and make the effort to come to ECP for this dyno session. By donating this dyno time, I am "giving back" to those of you that have been so gracious to put your trust and faith in me, my company and this great product.
Freddie Klies
www.easterncycleperf.com
On the next run, we tested the Raptor air filters versus the ECP filters and with no disrespect intended, there was no comparison. I have a few folks out there testing both filters and their verbal description looks exactly like the graph results. At 4400 RPM's the Raptor K&N air filters make 10 foot pounds less torque than the ECP filters! This is comparing both filters without the crankcase evac connected...in other words, both filters tested were for the filters with no other outside influences. Just a filter to filter comparison. The Raptor filters eventually make the same peak torque but it takes too long to make it.Then at 8000 RPM's the Raptor filters have a "droop" in the torque curve reminiscent of the stock air box but not quite as bad. The ECP air filters power right through this area with no "droop". From 8600 RPM's to 9200 RPM's the 2 filters are about even and then the Raptor Filters begin to fail miserably from 9300 RPM's to the rev limiter with a massive torque drop throught that RPM range. The Raptor filters do try to gain back the loss but wayyy up at top RPM's and just before the rev limiter and dangerously close to the rev limiter. The ECP filters have 5 more HP at peak than the Raptor filters.
Next, we reconnected the evac , reinstalled the ECP filters and tried the Iridium spark plugs. (CR9EIX) There was no comparison. The CR10EK sparkplugs crushed the CR9EIX sparkplugs. There was a power loss everywhere with the CR9EIX plugs.
Next we set the sled back up with the CR10EK sparkplugs and wanted to see if dynorun .003, which was the best run until then could be replicated. We did replicate the power almost identically. If anything there was slightly more power at peak by the last dynorun (.007) but the gain was very minimal. So we did successfully repeat the power attained earlier and backed it up twice.
This is cheap horsepower guys and is worth doing this mod. It makes an already GREAT kit even better. I will be able to supply the parts to make these kits in the near future or Dynarex is also going to post here on what is needed to accomplish this in the way of parts. It is a "simple to do" mod with items that can easily be purchased at any auto parts supplier.
You all need to thank Dynarex for taking the initiative to get this done and make the effort to come to ECP for this dyno session. By donating this dyno time, I am "giving back" to those of you that have been so gracious to put your trust and faith in me, my company and this great product.
Freddie Klies
www.easterncycleperf.com
morrisond
Expert
How much weight do you drop with your filter kit?
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
morrisond said:
5 pounds.
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
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Excellent report Freddie. By the way, did you get my second kit UPSed on Friday?
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
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23 Sidewinder SRX
Can you run the CC hose directly from the CC tube coming out of the engine to the T or do we still need to use that plastic vaporizer thingy?
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I can't believe these guys didn't take the time to say "thanks guys"! I could go down to an auto parts store to buy the parts but since you went to the trouble of doing this testing I will buy the "crankcase evacuation kit" from you.
Remember, we RX-1 types are finicky. I would like Black ABS fitting (anmd black hose if possible) coming out of the front of my filters (if possible). I certainly don't want white elbows that stand out like a sore thumb.
After the lines coming from the filters "T" and run back toward the engine. Is there an "L" that runs the line along the base of the engine back toward the crank case fitting? Then another "L" that hooks directly into the zinc colored fitting coming off the engine. I hope so.
Is there a need for a water trap type drain below the "T" or at one of the "Ls" at the lowest point in the system to remove any moisture condensation?
Good work guys. Was this testing done with 165 main jets and the stock needles in what postion? Air screws were where?
Remember, I need to leave room in the ends of my ECP filters for my nitrous kit latter
Thanks again. PB
Remember, we RX-1 types are finicky. I would like Black ABS fitting (anmd black hose if possible) coming out of the front of my filters (if possible). I certainly don't want white elbows that stand out like a sore thumb.
After the lines coming from the filters "T" and run back toward the engine. Is there an "L" that runs the line along the base of the engine back toward the crank case fitting? Then another "L" that hooks directly into the zinc colored fitting coming off the engine. I hope so.
Is there a need for a water trap type drain below the "T" or at one of the "Ls" at the lowest point in the system to remove any moisture condensation?
Good work guys. Was this testing done with 165 main jets and the stock needles in what postion? Air screws were where?
Remember, I need to leave room in the ends of my ECP filters for my nitrous kit latter
Thanks again. PBDYNAREX
Expert
powder blue-
yep all parts are blk and they dont look too bad
testing was with 165 jets fuel screws at 2.5 turns out needles at 3rd clip(stock) and silver springs with lawnmower fuel(86 octane)in the tank
0/40 amsoil(im a dealer)in the engine0temp was about 45 degrees and we had a big fan bloing on the motor during the runs to try and simulate turbulence under the hood
yep all parts are blk and they dont look too bad
testing was with 165 jets fuel screws at 2.5 turns out needles at 3rd clip(stock) and silver springs with lawnmower fuel(86 octane)in the tank
0/40 amsoil(im a dealer)in the engine0temp was about 45 degrees and we had a big fan bloing on the motor during the runs to try and simulate turbulence under the hood
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks for the info on the settings. I have to richen my fuel screws. Mine are still at 1 1/4 (stock for the RX-1M at 4,000 feet).
Do these sleds really make more power on 87 octane than on 93 octane? I know there are more BTUs available with the cheap stuff. I guess it's all about detonation resistance (or lack thereof). PB
Sorry to get off the topic. Thanks again for your hard work (both of you) PB
Do these sleds really make more power on 87 octane than on 93 octane? I know there are more BTUs available with the cheap stuff. I guess it's all about detonation resistance (or lack thereof). PB
Sorry to get off the topic. Thanks again for your hard work (both of you) PB
DYNAREX
Expert
lower octane dosent necessarily make more power -but there is no need for higher octane unless there is some kind of detonation
higher octane is really just a slower/cooler burning fuel and you only need an octane rating high enough so you dont detonate-the flame propagation and combustion chamber design of this engine dosent warrant anything higher than good ole regular pump gas-in fact there may be a loss(very small)of power on higher octane in that the ignition timing is set up for a faster burn and a slower burn may not be as complete in this engine-if there was a way to advance the timing then the octane rating would probably need to be higher
higher octane is really just a slower/cooler burning fuel and you only need an octane rating high enough so you dont detonate-the flame propagation and combustion chamber design of this engine dosent warrant anything higher than good ole regular pump gas-in fact there may be a loss(very small)of power on higher octane in that the ignition timing is set up for a faster burn and a slower burn may not be as complete in this engine-if there was a way to advance the timing then the octane rating would probably need to be higher
Now I have to figure out how to get a 3/4" hose all the way to the back of my sled. :wink:
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks for taking care of us guys!!! Looks like the ecp kit will be going back on this summer!!
YamahaRx-Warrior
Expert
I'lkl consider doing this mod to my ecp kit. For the added power it cannot hurt and it acts more like it did while it was in the airbox.
Justin
Justin
Rx1 cowboy
Expert
doing the evac mod to the ecp kits are there any chances of freezing up the breather hose, as i did with my k&n crankcase filter earlier and blowing my valve cover gasket, as i dont want to do this again, other than that the kit has been great
