herff
Veteran
Need ideas on how to troubleshoot an electrical issue.
Background:
1. Zero miles purchase of 2006 Attak with GT shock package = summer 2007.
2. Mid-season dead battery; Replaced original battery with Yamaha battery = January 2008
3. Installed disconnect on positive terminal and replacement battery from Batteries+ = December 2008
4. Last ride finished and disconnect opened, sled loaded on trailer = March 2008
5. Tried to summerize sled, completely dead battery = May 2008!
A total of 3 batteries since purchase! Even with a disconnect on positive terminal, battery is still draining to zero charge.
Measurement tests:
A. Kill switch up, key off, disconnect closed = 1.8 Ohms
B. Kill switch up, key RUN, disconnect closed = 1.3 Ohms
C. Kill switch DOWN, key run, disconnect closed = 1.8 Ohms
D. Kill switch UP, key OFF, disconnect OPEN = infinite Ohms
E. Kill switch up, key off, disconnect CLOSED, power lead wire connect OPEN (see picture) = infinite Ohms
What should I check next???
Background:
1. Zero miles purchase of 2006 Attak with GT shock package = summer 2007.
2. Mid-season dead battery; Replaced original battery with Yamaha battery = January 2008
3. Installed disconnect on positive terminal and replacement battery from Batteries+ = December 2008
4. Last ride finished and disconnect opened, sled loaded on trailer = March 2008
5. Tried to summerize sled, completely dead battery = May 2008!
A total of 3 batteries since purchase! Even with a disconnect on positive terminal, battery is still draining to zero charge.
Measurement tests:
A. Kill switch up, key off, disconnect closed = 1.8 Ohms
B. Kill switch up, key RUN, disconnect closed = 1.3 Ohms
C. Kill switch DOWN, key run, disconnect closed = 1.8 Ohms
D. Kill switch UP, key OFF, disconnect OPEN = infinite Ohms
E. Kill switch up, key off, disconnect CLOSED, power lead wire connect OPEN (see picture) = infinite Ohms
What should I check next???
Attachments
Check the battery voltage when the sled is running. Sounds like your alternator might be weak.
snerkman
Pro
If you've got a disconnect on the battery and it still went dead between March and May the battery is junk. I'd be more inclined to think the voltage regulator is shot and overcharging your batteries than the alternator being weak. As guardrail suggested, you really need to check the charging voltage when it's running, but make sure you start with a fully charged battery.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
This may seem obvious but I'll say it anyway. If there is any aftermarket stuff connected to the electrical system I would remove it. Maybe there is a short somewhere. Some hook up their heated shield or GPS to the batt. directly, maybe there is some draw from those type of items.
herff
Veteran
Thanks for the questions and input. Used the Optimizer4 battery charger on the dead unit over the weekend. It is fully charged (but how capable - the jury is still out). I'll put it in this week and get a volt reading across the terminals when running. My cheapo meter only has settings for 10V or 50V. Last year I checked it and it pegged the 10V needle but the 50V needle was very close to 10V...I'm guessing 13-14V. I'll post the result as soon I record it.
My heated shield is direct wired to battery, but when I performed my tests in the first post it was without the accessory wires. So I don't think that is my root cause. Additionally, the continuity (resistance) goes to infinity when the factory lead connector is opened. So I think my root cause is downstream of this positive wire connector. Thanks for the q though, I'm really not confident of how to get to the bottom of this and I'd take a quick win like the accessory wire if I could.
Lastly, does this sled have an alternator? I don't see one on the wire diagram in manual. Does the battery charge from the magneto/rectifier? I am not too familiar with these pieces and any description/teaching about how they work is appreciated. If I find these are my cause, how big of a job is it to get at them?
Thanks...I'll be posting more as I get data.
herff
My heated shield is direct wired to battery, but when I performed my tests in the first post it was without the accessory wires. So I don't think that is my root cause. Additionally, the continuity (resistance) goes to infinity when the factory lead connector is opened. So I think my root cause is downstream of this positive wire connector. Thanks for the q though, I'm really not confident of how to get to the bottom of this and I'd take a quick win like the accessory wire if I could.
Lastly, does this sled have an alternator? I don't see one on the wire diagram in manual. Does the battery charge from the magneto/rectifier? I am not too familiar with these pieces and any description/teaching about how they work is appreciated. If I find these are my cause, how big of a job is it to get at them?
Thanks...I'll be posting more as I get data.
herff
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Maybe try working on the negative side?
Disconnect the negative battery lead and try getting an ohm reading between the negative batt terminal and the cable you've disconnected from it?
Switches off, anything but infinite, and you should be able to start pulling fuses to identify the problem circuit....
If you do get infinite when you check, leave it disconnected for a couple days and try it again to see what you get then?
Monitor batt voltage for a few days with the cable still disconnected?
Disconnect the negative battery lead and try getting an ohm reading between the negative batt terminal and the cable you've disconnected from it?
Switches off, anything but infinite, and you should be able to start pulling fuses to identify the problem circuit....
If you do get infinite when you check, leave it disconnected for a couple days and try it again to see what you get then?
Monitor batt voltage for a few days with the cable still disconnected?
sgilbert
TY 4 Stroke Guru
if it's eating batteries with it disconnected, would bet regulator is overcharging, boiling them. check fluid level in battery, if low. bingo
