engine clicking noise

[Mtnviper]

Do I need the M10 long reach or standard compression adapter?

The type that has the hose attached is usually easiest to use.

 

[spoon_911]

So I finally got to my homework and did a cylinder leak down test. #2 and #3 had a 10% leak while #1 had a leak of 18%. I tapped on the valve buckets but it didn't change my percentage. I added about a tsp of oil down the hole and rechecked. My percentage went down to 10% then after about 10 sec. rose back to 18%. I'm assuming I have a problem with piston rings. Is this enough difference to worry about and could this possibly have something to do with my noise?

 

[Mtnviper]

10% is pretty good as testers can vary somewhat. The one that's at 18% is slightly high and could be leaking somewhat past the rings, depending on how many miles are on the motor and and whether it's boosted or not.
Generally speaking leakage past the rings won't cause a tick noise though unless there is a broken piston and if this were the case it would be leaking a lot more than 18%.
What you might try next, is listening for air flow through the throttle bodies, exhaust and cylinder head drain back holes with a stethoscope while you have air pressure applied to the cylinders. Normally what I will do is remove the probe on the stethoscope so that your using it as a speaker tube (if that makes sense)!

 

[spoon_911]

10% is pretty good as testers can vary somewhat. The one that's at 18% is slightly high and could be leaking somewhat past the rings, depending on how many miles are on the motor and and whether it's boosted or not.
Generally speaking leakage past the rings won't cause a tick noise though unless there is a broken piston and if this were the case it would be leaking a lot more than 18%.
What you might try next, is listening for air flow through the throttle bodies, exhaust and cylinder head drain back holes with a stethoscope while you have air pressure applied to the cylinders. Normally what I will do is remove the probe on the stethoscope so that your using it as a speaker tube (if that makes sense)!

It's got 800 kms on it with no boost. Checked for air leaks coming out of exhaust and out the throttle bodies, its quiet. Tapped on the intake and exhaust buckets, can hear a quick burst of air out of exhaust or throttle body, then is quiet again right away. I used a drill tonight to spin the engine over and noticed that the noise is there just after top dead center and at bottom dead center, so I'm kinda eliminating a valve problem. Can a broken ring?? or piston pin cause something like this?

 

[Mtnviper]

Usually a broken ring will be quiet (although there are exceptions). A piston pin or a cracked piston could be causing it though. I just watched your video again and it's definitely not a normal noise.
Unfortunately I think that your to the point where your going to have to tear it down and inspect it. Since your hearing it near TDC/BDC I would start from the bottom end and work your way up. If you do find a bad piston/pin or rod bearing, do pull the valves in the effected cylinder and chuck them up in a lathe or drill press to check them for straightness. The clearances are pretty tight on these motors and it doesn't much damage to cause pieces to "touch each other" that are not suppose to!

Looking at it from a glass half full perspective though, as it stands now you have an engine that is very likely repairable. As opposed to the "just run it and see if she blows" approach, which usually ends up being a catastrophic failure and often times results in replacing the entire engine.

Let us know what you find.

 

[spoon_911]

Usually a broken ring will be quiet (although there are exceptions). A piston pin or a cracked piston could be causing it though. I just watched your video again and it's definitely not a normal noise.
Unfortunately I think that your to the point where your going to have to tear it down and inspect it. Since your hearing it near TDC/BDC I would start from the bottom end and work your way up. If you do find a bad piston/pin or rod bearing, do pull the valves in the effected cylinder and chuck them up in a lathe or drill press to check them for straightness. The clearances are pretty tight on these motors and it doesn't much damage to cause pieces to "touch each other" that are not suppose to!

Looking at it from a glass half full perspective though, as it stands now you have an engine that is very likely repairable. As opposed to the "just run it and see if she blows" approach, which usually ends up being a catastrophic failure and often times results in replacing the entire engine.

Let us know what you find.

I think your right, done pretty much all I can up to this point, Thanks a lot for the help, Ill let ya know what I find